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Old 09-26-2010, 06:57 PM   #16
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umm i think i will stick to the 3 in 1.

Unless somebody eles quotes on what you say.. Never heard of anybody using tranny fluid.
and apparently youve never seen the inside of a trans eh? Its just oil with a high detergent, ie...CLEANS THE GUNK OUT.

And yes, ANY oil left to penetrate will cause silicone to expand and pop. If you have a filled crank, i wouldnt use any after run. Just clean the motor out on a regular basis by flushing.
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Old 09-26-2010, 07:03 PM   #17
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The issue is the nitromethane. You dont use that in your car, atv or dirt bike. The nitromethane is like a sponge for water, it attracts moisture, which comes rust. Also, if you dont use a fuel with a 100% synthetic oil package, they use castor. Castor oil can leave behind some pretty nasty stuff if left in there and allowed to set.
That is what i ready somewhere eles. That if the nitro fuel sits in your engine it will become rust. So i am probably just going to oil my engine.. It wont hurt to do it
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Old 09-26-2010, 07:29 PM   #18
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The issue is the nitromethane. You dont use that in your car, atv or dirt bike. The nitromethane is like a sponge for water, it attracts moisture, which comes rust. Also, if you dont use a fuel with a 100% synthetic oil package, they use castor. Castor oil can leave behind some pretty nasty stuff if left in there and allowed to set.
Nitromethane is extremely hydroscopic
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Old 09-26-2010, 07:51 PM   #19
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umm i think i will stick to the 3 in 1.

Unless somebody eles quotes on what you say.. Never heard of anybody using tranny fluid.
Mobil 1 Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid. I use it. It's not petroleum based since it's 100% pure synthetic. Petroleum products can cause an engine with red putty or silicone filled crank to swell and that isn't good. Use either some type of after run oil from the hobby shop that is not petroleum based, or use a fully synthetic oil of some type(I use synthetic ATF). Klotz makes some specialty R/C lubricants as well. Just use a small bottle with a dropper top so you can add a few drops and aren't pouring a huge amount. If you're in doubt just grab some after run oil from Murnan Modified which is silicone safe. http://www.murnanmodified.com/produc...roducts_id=180

I use After run oil after every time I run the engine, whether it's a minute or an hour. It flushes out any unburnt fuel (you don't want it to sit there cause it attracts moisture), and adds a bit of lube.
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Old 09-26-2010, 07:57 PM   #20
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Thanks for all the great replys..


But my question was..

Can i use 2 in 1 to oil my engine? I have a 3.3 Motor
Or is tranny fluid better to use?
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Old 09-26-2010, 08:04 PM   #21
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Thanks for all the great replys..


But my question was..

Can i use 2 in 1 to oil my engine? I have a 3.3 Motor
Or is tranny fluid better to use?
Personally, I'd use synthetic automatic transmission fluid. Synthetic oils lubricate and protect better. Plus you can get a whole quart for $7.99 which would last you pretty much your entire R/C career.
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Old 09-26-2010, 08:08 PM   #22
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Personally, I'd use synthetic automatic transmission fluid. Synthetic oils lubricate and protect better. Plus you can get a whole quart for $7.99 which would last you pretty much your entire R/C career.
Yeah, It will last for awhile! I am thinking about just getting that and getting a dropper to use the tranny fluid.


When oiling am i just suppose to oil inside the motor and inside the carb? Correct.. Or is there other places.
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Old 09-26-2010, 08:12 PM   #23
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What I do is first let the engine cool with the piston set to the bottom. Then I remove the glow plug and drop 5 drops into the head. Then remove the air filter and open the carb and drop 5 drops into that. Then I crank the engine over with my starter while covering the openings with a paper towel and count to 5. That's it, any excess oil will fling out of the opening. Put it back together and you're ready for next time.
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Old 09-26-2010, 08:14 PM   #24
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What I do is first let the engine cool with the piston set to the bottom. Then I remove the glow plug and drop 5 drops into the head. Then remove the air filter and open the carb and drop 5 drops into that. Then I crank the engine over with my starter while covering the openings with a paper towel and count to 5. That's it, any excess oil will fling out of the opening. Put it back together and you're ready for next time.
Alright, that is what i thought.. I am going to get some tranny fluid and just use that..
Thanks for all the help
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Old 09-26-2010, 08:19 PM   #25
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Alright, that is what i thought.. I am going to get some tranny fluid and just use that..
Thanks for all the help
Just be sure it's full synthetic. Mobil 1 is a name thrown around quite a bit. It's what I use. Should be available at the auto parts store. It looks like this http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...hetic_ATF.aspx

Another tip for you. When you clean your air filter, you can use foam air filter oil from a motorcycle shop. If there's someplace near you that sells parts and fluids for dirtbikes and the like, you can use the same air filter oil. It's a lot cheaper than hobby specific stuff and does the same job.
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Old 09-26-2010, 08:26 PM   #26
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+1 on TF fluid and i always disconnect my fuel line going into the carb if not your just drawing more nitro in with the TF when you turn it over...
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Old 09-26-2010, 09:00 PM   #27
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+1 on TF fluid and i always disconnect my fuel line going into the carb if not your just drawing more nitro in with the TF when you turn it over...
I usually run my cars dry if I can. This is a good idea though.
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Old 09-27-2010, 06:29 AM   #28
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dont even worry about the after run oil not needed unless your truck is gonna be setting for atleast a month. save the 3-1 oil for your clutch bearings..
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Old 09-27-2010, 07:58 AM   #29
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How about mineral oil that you get in the pharmacy section? A plus is if you get constipated then you can drink it!
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Old 09-27-2010, 03:12 PM   #30
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Something to keep in mind; whatever you use for ARO is going to be lubricating your bearings and other parts for the first couple minutes after start up. Some oils like 3-in-1, wd40, ets are find for preventing corrosion, but not so good as high speed high temp engine lubes. So maybe on the first startup after using ARO run it very rich for a couple minutes to flush out the ARO and get good engine lube in there.

Also methanol (much of our fuel is methanol) becomes very corrosive when it absorbes water from the air, so that's another reason for ARO if it's going to sit on the shelf for a while.
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