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Old 09-08-2010, 05:04 AM   #1
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Default Losi 8 1.0 throttle servo damage?

I have a Losi 8 1.0 on its way for my 10yr old son to race. I believe I have heard that they have a problem breaking the throttle servo from flex. I recall seeing a fix using rubber o-rings on the servo tray? Can someone please point me to a link to this fix or tell me what I need to get for this to be done? Thanks
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Old 09-08-2010, 09:06 AM   #2
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I haven't had any issue with my servos on 8T1.0. It is important to set the EPA correctly.

You mentioned about o-rings. You should put two of them between the chassis and the radio tray but only on the screw that is under the battery. I've been running my 8T for over 3 gallons without these o-rings (i simply didn't know where they should be put ) and had no servo failure. I think that their role is to protect the battery more than servos.
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Old 09-08-2010, 09:14 AM   #3
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No O-ring's are needed and do yourself a favor and get a 2.0 radio tray.
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Old 09-08-2010, 09:57 AM   #4
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Quote:
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No O-ring's are needed and do yourself a favor and get a 2.0 radio tray.
What is the difference? Will it work with the 1.0 chassis?

I have got a problem with my servo mounting screws. I mean the standard washers are the problem What replacement of them and standard screws do you use?

This is what i have...


This is what i would like to have...


Will these Asso washers and screws be a direct fit for Losi? If not, what do you use?

Also, does Asso use standard screws or metric?
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Old 09-08-2010, 10:27 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donat View Post
What is the difference? Will it work with the 1.0 chassis?

I have got a problem with my servo mounting screws. I mean the standard washers are the problem What replacement of them and standard screws do you use?

This is what i have...


This is what i would like to have...


Will these Asso washers and screws be a direct fit for Losi? If not, what do you use?

Also, does Asso use standard screws or metric?


associated uses metric so it's a no go, The washer's will work no problem's, and to properly secure servo's with rubber grommets i suggest a little longer screw for the side that uses the little insert's....stock hardware is a little too short.

the 2.0 tray is a direct drop in, but the linkage would need some re-adjusting or just get the 2.0 linkages, Also you'll need to grind down your side guards on the chassis to now allow clearance for the servo...pics can be provided if needed.
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Old 09-08-2010, 11:02 AM   #6
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And what is the advantage of using 2.0 tray?
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Old 09-08-2010, 12:05 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donat View Post
I haven't had any issue with my servos on 8T1.0. It is important to set the EPA correctly.

You mentioned about o-rings. You should put two of them between the chassis and the radio tray but only on the screw that is under the battery. I've been running my 8T for over 3 gallons without these o-rings (i simply didn't know where they should be put ) and had no servo failure. I think that their role is to protect the battery more than servos.
I think initially when they were having all the servo problems they decided the tray was flexing to much and putting the servo in a bind when the chassis flexed a lot. The o-rings allow the chassis to flex without affecting the tray/servo as much, so the servo isnt in as much of a bind....they also thought the residual heat from the engine was a factor so they added a brace and moved the servo out from the engine.




Quote:
Originally Posted by Donat View Post
And what is the advantage of using 2.0 tray?
The 2.0 tray has a support brace on both sides of the throttle servo, It also moved it out away from the engine to reduce heat......you can just screw it down without any o-rings or special setups........
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Old 09-08-2010, 12:15 PM   #8
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Ok. Thank you very much for help!
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Old 09-08-2010, 09:19 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BAUSTIN View Post
I think initially when they were having all the servo problems they decided the tray was flexing to much and putting the servo in a bind when the chassis flexed a lot. The o-rings allow the chassis to flex without affecting the tray/servo as much, so the servo isnt in as much of a bind....they also thought the residual heat from the engine was a factor so they added a brace and moved the servo out from the engine.


The 2.0 tray has a support brace on both sides of the throttle servo, It also moved it out away from the engine to reduce heat......you can just screw it down without any o-rings or special setups........

It was never said it to be heat or spacing that was causing the problems but Vibrational harmonics....Imo the flex has nothing to do with it.


Donat, do yourself a favor and run the 2.0 tray, it'll be worth it in the end.
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Old 09-09-2010, 03:59 PM   #10
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Thanks for the info guys! I got the 2.0 radio tray ordered.
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Old 09-11-2010, 06:47 PM   #11
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Another big issue was the servo was slapping the chassis on jumps.I use a small piece of fuel tubing(in place of he orings),1/2# screw,and run it in till it barely starts making its way thru the tray. I also put a strip of double sided tape for insurance.
The spacing with the orings allow for flex & spacing between the bottom of the servo and the chassis.I have yet to have a problem.
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Old 09-11-2010, 06:54 PM   #12
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i just, use a radio tray stiffner with the 1.0 radio tray and just set my linkages where its not overextening or flexing on the tray i havnt burn any thottle servos up in 2 years.


and the putting the o-ring under the battery is a pain in the a butt to me
espially when you take off your radio tray off and on to clean the chassis.
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Old 09-11-2010, 06:56 PM   #13
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i just, use a radio tray stiffner with the 1.0 radio tray and just set my linkages where its not overextening or flexing on the tray i havnt burn any thottle servos up in 2 years. and the stiffner with rubber grummets under the servo sits the servo up.


and the putting the o-ring under the battery is a pain in the a butt to me
espially when you take off your radio tray off and on to clean the chassis.



sorry double post my computer is acting up.
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