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Old 09-10-2010, 07:10 AM   #16
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Please change the topic title to "Owner drama"
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Old 09-10-2010, 08:28 AM   #17
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Im no perfect tuner, but, by reading the bibles as well as listening to pro racers, I have learned and still learning about the way engines operate. Its hard for people to GUESS whats wrong with an engine. And I myself honestly dont want someone I dont know to GUESS when it comes to a 200 engine. Thats why I said read the bible. it should really help you understand the reactions of the rc which will help you determine how to tune. IMO
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Old 09-11-2010, 01:19 AM   #18
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lsn was 3 and 2 twelfths. which would equal3 full turns plus 2 hours using the clock measurement system. and yes it does seem like alot but that was from factory. i was NOT tryin to tune it i juz thought it was too much. will reset 2 factory and see how i go. i havn't had the chance 2 get trackside n talk 2 guys thats y i thought i would ask here. not that its taken 2 serious i can come 2 my own conclusions.
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Old 09-11-2010, 08:57 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by buhdds View Post
lsn was 3 and 2 twelfths. which would equal3 full turns plus 2 hours using the clock measurement system. and yes it does seem like alot but that was from factory. i was NOT tryin to tune it i juz thought it was too much. will reset 2 factory and see how i go. i havn't had the chance 2 get trackside n talk 2 guys thats y i thought i would ask here. not that its taken 2 serious i can come 2 my own conclusions.
Make sure you have a return spring that actually pulls the carb closed first and foremost

You leaned your low speed and now need to lower your idle screw , those two needles are very relative to each other . Make sure the collar on the linkage that pulls the carb open is not holding the carb open when in neutral position , lower your idle until u get a nice consistent steady idle .

Hope this helps as I am sure this is the problem , keep temps in the 190-210 area for a proper break in and do not over rev , also use a fuel with at least 11% oil package for run in
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Old 09-11-2010, 06:44 PM   #20
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and i did read bibles!!! i just thought it came from factory wrong... my lhs said it was a cheaper car... i was like wtf? yeah its bit cheaper, but im juz startin! surely settings wud b correct? i had a cheaper thing from ebay n it was all over the shop. hsn n lsn completely outtas whack
Your LHS is full of crap. That car with the engine and a decent driver can hang with the more expensive race rollers. Like others have stated, definitely the lsn is too lean or out of tune. Set your idle as recommended in the manual and don't touch it. You should be able to tune the bottom end by using the low speed needle and listening for the idle to drop back to normal after a couple of revs at operating temperature. If the idle stays up, richen the lsn until you hear it drop properly when you are off the the throttle.
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Old 09-12-2010, 02:06 AM   #21
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so 3 turns out for lsn is too lean? i have never touched the idle screw! i just turned it in to get measurements. tho it did seem strange it was so much. it is a gr8 engine/package thats why i am asking to get sum advice as 2 what it maybe was. i would like 2 baby the thing during break-in but seems i f***ed it up already... tho it neva ran long like that i shut it down quicksmart!
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Old 09-12-2010, 02:10 AM   #22
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i will return everything to factory settings and continue run in. but with those settings i could neva get it up 2 temp without using a sock on the heatsink. yes i have a spring returning it. i will put it all back 2 factory and run it in with sock then when i can get trackside ask the guys that race. maybe what they say in manual (2.5 turns out for both hsn and lsn needles is way off) but they neva mention idle. thanx for the positive advice ppl will post results
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Old 09-12-2010, 07:21 AM   #23
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Make sure you have a return spring that actually pulls the carb closed first and foremost

You leaned your low speed and now need to lower your idle screw , those two needles are very relative to each other . Make sure the collar on the linkage that pulls the carb open is not holding the carb open when in neutral position , lower your idle until u get a nice consistent steady idle .

Hope this helps as I am sure this is the problem , keep temps in the 190-210 area for a proper break in and do not over rev , also use a fuel with at least 11% oil package for run in
+1 on this. Im with Houston!

I think everyone missed the part about the revs coming down when he hit the breaks. Needle adjustments wont have anything to do with this. Well unless ya open up the LSN so much to compensate for the large false idle gap. Then when ya hit the breaks it will be so rich it will flood and stall..... blah blah blah...

Anyways, like Houston says, start by checking the collar on your throttle linkage to make sure when you are actually returning to idle before you start chasing a tune.
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Old 09-14-2010, 04:38 AM   #24
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it seems that maybe the spring isn't tight enough maybe. when i break the throttle closes further than where it sits during idle. when i open throttle then go 2 idle the spring is maybe affecting the collar to return fully. when i break the throttle closes about another 2-3mm and maybe the increase in revs is because i leaned the hsn?
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Old 09-14-2010, 05:57 AM   #25
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it seems that maybe the spring isn't tight enough maybe. when i break the throttle closes further than where it sits during idle. when i open throttle then go 2 idle the spring is maybe affecting the collar to return fully. when i break the throttle closes about another 2-3mm and maybe the increase in revs is because i leaned the hsn?
That's what someone told you earlier. When you're at idle, the spring should push the slide all the way closed. You may need to adjust your linkage so it does. When the car is at idle, is the outside collar on the throttle linkage all the way up against the servo arm? If it is, it might be keeping the carb slide from coming all the way back.
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Old 09-14-2010, 06:24 AM   #26
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In addition, something to watch for; the throttle servo was absolute crap on my Losi 8T 2.0 RTR! It went out when I was breaking the engine in. I bought a hi torque for the steering and moved the steering back to the throttle until I could change it.
As an additional note, be sure to check the endpoints on your steering and throttle. A buddy of mine bought one about 6 months ago and since he's new to the hobby I spent a good deal of time working on his car LOL. Neither the steering nor throttle EPA's were set properly, both had way too much travel. Also some issues with the car not fitting onto the bump box properly and the clutch nut spinning loose the first time the truck hit the track. If that happens, find someone with a crankshaft locking tool. All those things were a little aggravating, but I sill liked the truck a lot once we fixed them and got it on the track.
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