didrace

I have been wondering which is the correct way to measure camber and toe..?

in the hudy setup guide it uses the 30mm droop blocks underneath the car to measure both the toe and camber but it says that first is important to adjust the ride height..

in adams drake video it uses just the camber guage to measure the camber..

what is the correct way guys..

i will be using a setup station to correct my toe and camber for y mp9 and i would like to know how pros do it.

for example on the setup sheet it says 2 degrees camber and 1 degree toe.. so how do the pros do it and write it there on the setup sheet

Thanks!!

jamiekerr14

90% of pro's setup there cars on setup station at home.. and adjust with camber guage at the track when needed.. set your ride height.. then put blocks under car push down so its level then do toe and camber.. ect

didrace

if i dont have the droop blocks i cant do anything?

cause at the moment i dont own them..

is there anything else i can do? for example use rims? would that be accurate enough? or i must use something that is exactly 30 mm?

thanks

Roelof

You can use all kind of methodes, the only thing you have to do is using the right methode with which the setup was made or you are using every time.

didrace

Thanks for the reply but what do you mean use the right methode in which the setup was made?

this is the first time i will meause my camber and toes ..

previouly it was made with the manual and my calibers..

DOMIT

iTrader: (1)

"bones level" is a good rule of thumb if you don't have anything to measure with. In other words take your measurements with the driveshafts level.

jamiekerr14

Yeah I personally use a old Tape.. which is near enough 30 and has a big surface area... and thats what I use.. just make sure what ever way you do it. You always use that method.. so its always the same.. height

didrace

Ok i will use something thats close to 30mm and i will be using the same thing everytime i measure my toes and cambers..

didrace

and i guess 30mm will be close to bone level or just above..

but that again would not be accurate compared to others peoples setup if they are using different size block underneath..

for example cody king setup says 2 degrees toe and 2 camber..if the block used underneath is different or if no block was use underneath and it it was doen with the right height lets say that wont be the same setting as me..

i apologise for the difficulties i am finding to understand ..

am i correct?

johnny t

iTrader: (10)

the are not to set the chassis at a specific height, only a consistent one. anything close should be fine. as long as you keep it the same.

although I don't use blocks per say and just go by ride height via arm/bones angle. whatever works...

morgoth

Grab some wood and make 30mm blocks. Some people meassure camber and toe with the shocks of the car and the chasis flat on the ground. You'll meassure bigger value than normal tho. 5-6° or something. I guess it's what you prefer. I just put the car on the station with the ride height set and no blocks under it. Just let it float and wobble it after every adjustment so it comes back to ride height.

Audiobahnaholic

iTrader: (44)

You don't want 30mm blocks you want blocks for whatever your ride height is. So if you are running 28mm ride height you want the chassis at that height that way when you set your camber and toe that is at static height. If you use 30mm when you put wheels on and slap the car on the ground your measurements will be off slightly as your ride height isn't 30mm. It's dependent on how technical you are. I personally put on the set of tires I will be running at the race, drop the car from 4-6 inches onto a perfectly flat surface, set ride height, then drop the car again and make sure my heights are perfect then I set my camber in the rear first. Then turn the car and radio on so the steering is centered, and set the front camber, then I take my car into the kitchen where we have linoleum. I drop the car to get it at height then roll it up to the wall because the wall and floor are a perfect 90 degree angle. You then put your camber gauge on the wall and slide it up to the wheel and set your toe with that. I think setup stations are a waste unless you have the technique of using them perfected because different tire and wheel combo's have different heights which makes your ride height different when you change wheels. A setup station is the same height no matter what so if you set your ride height with that then put on a wheel and tire combo that is taller or shorter you wasted your time basically, unless however you put on your tires and set your ride height my way then use the setup station. Everyone has their own little tweaks to get the same thing. Everyone I have seen uses a flat setup board and their ride height and camber gauges. The tools I use are a ride height gauge, camber gauge, calipers. No expensive chunks of aluminum here.

morkendi

iTrader: (1)

it really doesn't matter which way you do it as long as you do it the same way every time. The blocks help with the consistency. I don't use blocks myself. Only things I use are digital calipers to measure ride height and droop and such. And setup station and rpm camber gauge for quick checks. I keep a note book with a page for each track. After a race, I record what I ended up with for the day and track conditions along with weather and temp.. All the numbers fall into collums so I can review before I go to that track to see what works. I'll write any changes I make and weather it helped or not. Write down the bad changes so you don't do the same thing 5 races down the road. You will start to see trends that work for your driving style. I keep setup sheets to, but they don't let you compare like the book will.

didrace

thanks all..

i did as you said

i used a 30mm tape and now i think is more consistent

jamiekerr14

no problem! bit cheaper than £30 blocks