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Old 09-05-2010, 08:54 PM   #1
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Default Oil or Springs

I just wanted to know what would be a better adjustment, to change the oil or the springs? I dont want to know which one would be faster, just the better solution. I ask this because im getting more chassis clapping then I would like.
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Old 09-05-2010, 09:13 PM   #2
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i would, say if your at the track and want to adjust the shocks the faster thing to do is to change to a stiffer spring so the chassis slapping will stop.

if your at home at your workbetch then go to heavyer oils in the shocks.
ethier way your will notice quite a diffrence from just changing the spring.
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Old 09-05-2010, 09:48 PM   #3
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the chassis slapping isnt always a bad thing. mine slaps if i over jump or come up short on a jump, if you land in a weird way or not level to the ground it will slap no mater what. stiffer springs is usually the best and quickest but changing shock oils can help a TON, i went up to stiffer springs just because i didnt have time to change oil and then i changed oil and had to go back to lighter springs. also running different rebounds helps alot too. i almost always run 100% rebound and sometimes i run 75% for smoother tracks, but thats all about what the driver wants, i know some run 0% rebound. also different piston sizes help, i usually drill mine so i can run thicker oil, but you really have to know what your doing when you drill them, you can mess one up in a heart beat.
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Old 09-05-2010, 09:54 PM   #4
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Default Try

In the front shocks go one spring stiffer, usually works great, then go up 10wt in the oil too. If you go to thicker oil you usually need a stiffer spring or it won't rebound properly, too slow,. Another way that I've found works wonders is to go to the one smaller piston hole size....Then keep the oil the same as before, and try one stiffer spring. I hope this helps, but as a rule

piston first, oil second then choose springs accordingly.......
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Old 09-06-2010, 07:12 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by jmaxey51 View Post
the chassis slapping isnt always a bad thing. mine slaps if i over jump or come up short on a jump, if you land in a weird way or not level to the ground it will slap no mater what. stiffer springs is usually the best and quickest but changing shock oils can help a TON, i went up to stiffer springs just because i didnt have time to change oil and then i changed oil and had to go back to lighter springs. also running different rebounds helps alot too. i almost always run 100% rebound and sometimes i run 75% for smoother tracks, but thats all about what the driver wants, i know some run 0% rebound. also different piston sizes help, i usually drill mine so i can run thicker oil, but you really have to know what your doing when you drill them, you can mess one up in a heart beat.
How do you measure shock rebound %? How do you get the different % rates?
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Old 09-06-2010, 10:07 AM   #6
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How do you measure shock rebound %? How do you get the different % rates?
it is how much the shock comes back out with no springs on it. the way you do it is you push the shock up to how far you want it to shoot back out and then tighten the shock cap down.

here is a good way to build shocks: http://www.tytessman.com/tips/building_shocks.html
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Old 09-06-2010, 10:29 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by jmaxey51 View Post
it is how much the shock comes back out with no springs on it. the way you do it is you push the shock up to how far you want it to shoot back out and then tighten the shock cap down.

here is a good way to build shocks: http://www.tytessman.com/tips/building_shocks.html


heres, what sucks though with rebound it never stays the same after you run it on the track . espially with the rubber bladders
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Old 09-06-2010, 11:04 AM   #8
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heres, what sucks though with rebound it never stays the same after you run it on the track . espially with the rubber bladders
If you drill a hole in the cap the rebound won't go up as the shock heats up.
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Old 09-06-2010, 11:07 AM   #9
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If you drill a hole in the cap the rebound won't go up as the shock heats up.

i know i just dont like rebuilding the shocks more than i have to with that mod. i hate doing shocks !
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Old 09-06-2010, 12:21 PM   #10
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heres, what sucks though with rebound it never stays the same after you run it on the track . espially with the rubber bladders
thats not true at all.... you need to rebuild your shocks with all new o rings, mine holds the same rebound for atleast 3-5 races easily, but i usually re-do my shocks every other race because i can tell that they are thinning out. but now ive been drilling the pistons so i can run thicker oil so it lasts longer.
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Old 09-06-2010, 02:13 PM   #11
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thats not true at all.... you need to rebuild your shocks with all new o rings, mine holds the same rebound for atleast 3-5 races easily, but i usually re-do my shocks every other race because i can tell that they are thinning out. but now ive been drilling the pistons so i can run thicker oil so it lasts longer.
By drilling the caps, how do you keep dirt out from geeting inside the cap? Any tricks? Or u just have to rebuild each and every race?
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Old 09-06-2010, 02:26 PM   #12
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By drilling the caps, how do you keep dirt out from geeting inside the cap? Any tricks? Or u just have to rebuild each and every race?
I use a small piece of leftover foam from the inside of my air filter element. This also helps to return the bladder back to its normal shape after the rebound.
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Old 09-06-2010, 05:42 PM   #13
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By drilling the caps, how do you keep dirt out from geeting inside the cap? Any tricks? Or u just have to rebuild each and every race?
ill never drill the caps. no point IMO but i drill the shock pistons.
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Old 09-06-2010, 05:57 PM   #14
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By drilling the caps, how do you keep dirt out from geeting inside the cap? Any tricks? Or u just have to rebuild each and every race?
You are suppose to drill the cap right in the middle. It is a popular mod for Losi cars.
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Old 09-06-2010, 06:02 PM   #15
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well , it might be a popular mod for the losi cars but heck if i like to rebuild my shocks earier than i need to.

i race on a dusty track every other weekend.
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