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Old 09-05-2010, 07:28 PM   #1
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Default 8ight 2.0 Buggy RTR to Race Roller Conversion

Ok well i just got a few extra bucks recently and have decided to upgrade my buggy to race roller specs. I've got all the major parts ordered such as: Shock Towers, Chassis Plate, Hex Hubs, Shock Caps, Radio Tray. But am wanting to know what other parts will be needed to complete my setup. Are there any other parts that are different vs the rtr and race roller? I got a great deal on the buggy when i bought it so i'm not too worried about the cost to upgrade it, it will still be several hundreds cheaper than buying a new race roller. Thanks in advance

Oh btw, i've already got the servos, electronics, engine all taken care of as i've been running this buggy for a few months now. I just need the small things that will complete my setup.
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Old 09-05-2010, 09:23 PM   #2
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Front Spindle king pins, Hinge pins, Shock Shafts, lower shock body cap, Standard Diff cups....I think that's all that's different aside from what you listed and some of it's obviously not really needed.
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Old 09-05-2010, 09:27 PM   #3
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Front Spindle king pins, Hinge pins, Shock Shafts, lower shock body cap, Standard Diff cups....I think that's all that's different aside from what you listed and some of it's obviously not really needed.
Hrmm, ok well i guess i pretty much have it covered then. I'll probably add some things like some of the lightened titanium parts, but otherwise it seems i've got it covered. I was just thinking there would be more major parts to get, but i guess i was wrong. Thanks for the info!
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Old 09-06-2010, 02:38 AM   #4
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Hrmm, ok well i guess i pretty much have it covered then. I'll probably add some things like some of the lightened titanium parts, but otherwise it seems i've got it covered. I was just thinking there would be more major parts to get, but i guess i was wrong. Thanks for the info!
Rear diff brace on the rtr has 1 bolt hole for the chassis. But I don't think that would matter to much.
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Old 09-06-2010, 09:24 AM   #5
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Thanks for the info, do you happen to have the part number of the diff mount with 2 holes in it? Might as well change that out in the process.
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Old 09-06-2010, 12:41 PM   #6
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Thanks for the info, do you happen to have the part number of the diff mount with 2 holes in it? Might as well change that out in the process.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Chassis-Brace


Interesting as i never knew they did this on the RTR....kinda confused as to why but w/e that's the #.
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Old 09-06-2010, 03:53 PM   #7
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http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Chassis-Brace


Interesting as i never knew they did this on the RTR....kinda confused as to why but w/e that's the #.
Oh ok i see thats why i couldn't find it, its a chassis brace. Yeah i noticed just one hole was used on my plastic ones, luckily i have a backup kingpinz brace with 2 holes in it. So i guess i'm pretty much set to go.

I was wondering are the lightened outdrives and spur gear really worth it? I know it'll be less rotating mass and that can't be a bad thing.
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Old 09-06-2010, 03:59 PM   #8
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Old 09-06-2010, 04:10 PM   #9
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Oh ok i see thats why i couldn't find it, its a chassis brace. Yeah i noticed just one hole was used on my plastic ones, luckily i have a backup kingpinz brace with 2 holes in it. So i guess i'm pretty much set to go.

I was wondering are the lightened outdrives and spur gear really worth it? I know it'll be less rotating mass and that can't be a bad thing.

kingpinz? do you mean king headz? never heard of kingpinz and nothing came up on a search i did. is it alum? if so dont use it , use the stock plastic, you will take away flex out of the rear.


i dont use the lightened outdrives in buggy, imo it makes it twichy
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Old 09-06-2010, 06:27 PM   #10
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Yes it's king headz sorry.
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Old 09-06-2010, 06:30 PM   #11
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Should I not use either front or rear aluminum braces? How about the front brace plate?
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Old 09-06-2010, 07:05 PM   #12
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Should I not use either front or rear aluminum braces? How about the front brace plate?


I vote No on the braces and steering top plate, IMO the top plate isn't needed and as long as your not racing on Super Smooth hard pack you don't need the alum braces....Stick with plastic and let the chassis work its magic.
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Old 09-06-2010, 07:08 PM   #13
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Should I not use either front or rear aluminum braces? How about the front brace plate?
a while ago i spoke to fisher and he told me to run the alum brace up front, this takes away flex at the steering servo. i did and i didnt notice any handling difference, any time you can take flex away from your servo is good in my book.
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Old 09-06-2010, 07:15 PM   #14
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a while ago i spoke to fisher and he told me to run the alum brace up front, this takes away flex at the steering servo. i did and i didnt notice any handling difference, any time you can take flex away from your servo is good in my book.
The front chassis brace or the front chassis plate? I can see why not to run the chassis braces in aluminum, but the top plate seems like it might help with the servo.
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Old 09-06-2010, 07:17 PM   #15
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The front chassis brace or the front chassis plate? I can see why not to run the chassis braces in aluminum, but the top plate seems like it might help with the servo.
the chassis brace, the top plate doesnt do anything, its a bling item
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