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Old 09-04-2010, 08:10 PM   #16
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A decent driver would notice, i agree. And i also agree a newer driver wouldn't notice. I stand by my original comment by getting some extra fuel and practicing. Imo that will shave alot more time off his laps than the 1 second difference by switching to a new chassis. Once he gets to the point where he feels he cannot get his rig around the track any faster, then go for the new chassis. Until then he's just going to wear it out making the mistakes he could have ironed out with the cheaper chassis.
+1

Also running a cheep set of skid plates prevents the chassis from turning to a razor
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Old 09-04-2010, 08:11 PM   #17
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Don't get me wrong i'm sure it will help some and someone with experience would probably notice. It might not be a night and day difference, but if you have a good feel for the rig then you'll notice just about any changes you make. I have an rtr 2.0 buggy and a race roller 2.0 truggy. The truggy drives much smoother and handles much better, but thats to be expected. I haven't driven a race roller buggy so i can't compare the difference and eventually i'll upgrade my buggy to race roller specs, but for now i seriously doubt it would make a huge difference for me personally.

And lets say it does make a big difference. I'd rather get used to the rtr and its rougher handling and then go to a race roller vs the going straight to a race roller. I believe you gotta make it harder on yourself or you'll never get any better.



well i been, trying diffrent setups with the stock chassis but its just not the easier thing to drive in the rough with ruts etc . and its kind of twichy also so im think that the flex chassis will help that i think i should notice a diffrence. and when the track gets dry thats where i think the flex chassis will help also


but the roller, 1.0 t chassis is pretty good on a smooth track not twichy .
but you said you have a 2.0 truggy right ? see that has a longer rear end and longer shocks in the rear and arms and my 1.0 t has the opposite.

plus i, had to get a new one chassis anyways i was having problems with the bulkhead screws getting counterstuck with the chassis holes on the rear end of it . i bought it used

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Old 09-04-2010, 08:12 PM   #18
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+1

Also running a cheep set of skid plates prevents the chassis from turning to a razor


are you talking about the de chassis guards i heard not to run them in the rear though ?
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Old 09-04-2010, 09:15 PM   #19
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Thanks guys that helps a lot. I'm curious also about running those plastic skid plates to help prolong the life of the chassis. has anyone had anything bad happen while running those skid plates? Does it affect the jumping?
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Old 09-04-2010, 09:28 PM   #20
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Thanks guys that helps a lot. I'm curious also about running those plastic skid plates to help prolong the life of the chassis. has anyone had anything bad happen while running those skid plates? Does it affect the jumping?

i would, get them for the front end not the rear end i heard that on the rear i will bottom out easier on jumps because there isnt as much clearance .

i dont think it will affect ride height im not sure about that.
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Old 09-04-2010, 09:39 PM   #21
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are you talking about the de chassis guards i heard not to run them in the rear though ?
I have a fresh pack of the DEs but haven't ran them. I'm taking about the "Xtreme Racing Wear Guard" (link below) which is the same as the DE just aluminum. I haven't found any performance problems with it but it sure does take a beating that the chassis would be taking if it wasn't there. The DE bumper skid plate does well up front.

Some people choose not to run them. I am one that does. I do what I can to prolong the life of my equipment.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ing-Wear-Guard
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Old 09-04-2010, 09:54 PM   #22
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I have a fresh pack of the DEs but haven't ran them. I'm taking about the "Xtreme Racing Wear Guard" (link below) which is the same as the DE just aluminum. I haven't found any performance problems with it but it sure does take a beating that the chassis would be taking if it wasn't there. The DE bumper skid plate does well up front.

Some people choose not to run them. I am one that does. I do what I can to prolong the life of my equipment.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ing-Wear-Guard


oh yea i saw them before i was going get the de guards but im probely going to get a hb d8t or a o donnell truggy the new one they have during winter.

do you know anybody who had a stock eight-t roller chassis and than used a tft 1.0 t flex chassis ?
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Old 09-04-2010, 09:58 PM   #23
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Is there really any comparison? Stiff slab of metal RTR chassis or nice light weight and flexy TFT chassis. The TFT wins every time. More traction, more steering, lighter weight, better bump handling, etc...

As for skids, I ran them for a long time but have recently stopped running the rear skid. I definitely notice a difference with and without the skid, and truthfully I don't miss the skid. If you're all about prolonging the life of your chassis, the skids will do wonders. If you're out for the best possible handling, you'll just have to replace the chassis every so often like we used to before skids came around. I do still run the Bump-Skid as I don't see any negative effects and it provides more protection for the front of the chassis/pivot blocks.
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Old 09-04-2010, 10:04 PM   #24
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Is there really any comparison? Stiff slab of metal RTR chassis or nice light weight and flexy TFT chassis. The TFT wins every time. More traction, more steering, lighter weight, better bump handling, etc...

As for skids, I ran them for a long time but have recently stopped running the rear skid. I definitely notice a difference with and without the skid, and truthfully I don't miss the skid. If you're all about prolonging the life of your chassis, the skids will do wonders. If you're out for the best possible handling, you'll just have to replace the chassis every so often like we used to before skids came around. I do still run the Bump-Skid as I don't see any negative effects and it provides more protection for the front of the chassis/pivot blocks.




but what about a stock roller eight-t chassis vs the tft 1.0 t chassis ?
is there any noticeble diffrence i just got my tft chassis for the 1.0 t .
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Old 09-04-2010, 10:10 PM   #25
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but what about a stock roller eight-t chassis vs the tft 1.0 t chassis ?
is there any noticeble diffrence i just got my tft chassis for the 1.0 t .
Yes. Same concept. More traction, more steering, more stable and a little bit lighter.
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Old 09-04-2010, 10:14 PM   #26
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As for skids, I ran them for a long time but have recently stopped running the rear skid. I definitely notice a difference with and without the skid, and truthfully I don't miss the skid.
Whats the different with and without the rear skid?

Double post...
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Old 09-04-2010, 10:14 PM   #27
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As for skids, I ran them for a long time but have recently stopped running the rear skid. I definitely notice a difference with and without the skid, and truthfully I don't miss the skid.
Whats the difference with and without the rear skid?
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Old 09-04-2010, 10:15 PM   #28
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Yes. Same concept. More traction, more steering, more stable and a little bit lighter.

sounds, good yea i got it for $45 at bluegrass hobbies on sale ! it defielty does, feel lighter than the roller eight-t chassis even though im not a pro level driver. just a sportsman truggy club driver i guess i should notice a diffrence i havnt driven it yet with that tft chassis.


i do wreck sometimes if i try to catch up to people that passed me
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Old 09-04-2010, 10:30 PM   #29
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Whats the difference with and without the rear skid?
The car just feels better in the bumps. There's no edge to catch on sharp bumps, and you don't lose any ride height/suspension travel. I mainly notice it on tracks where there are a lot of sharp jump faces. With the skids on(DE skids all different Generations) every now and then the back end would randomly be kicked up. Doesn't happen without the skid. I guess you could say it is more consistent. It isn't a huge difference and if you're running on a highly abrasive surface it might not be worth it. The way I look at it is if the chassis needs a skid it is hitting the ground. Add a skid and you've got an edge to clip. Hit something at high speed and it can get weird.
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Old 09-04-2010, 10:34 PM   #30
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The car just feels better in the bumps. There's no edge to catch on sharp bumps, and you don't lose any ride height/suspension travel. I mainly notice it on tracks where there are a lot of sharp jump faces. With the skids on(DE skids all different Generations) every now and then the back end would randomly be kicked up. Doesn't happen without the skid. I guess you could say it is more consistent. It isn't a huge difference and if you're running on a highly abrasive surface it might not be worth it. The way I look at it is if the chassis needs a skid it is hitting the ground. Add a skid and you've got an edge to clip. Hit something at high speed and it can get weird.
I have noticed rear kick on fresh layouts running the rear skid plate. But not noticeable on worn in tracks.
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