Did i buy a broken engine??
09-02-2010, 12:00 AM
#1
Did i buy a broken engine??
Hey guys i just built my first nitro buggy, the D8. as my first engine, i decided to buy a used engine on ebay so i did not need to go through the process of braking it in. my question and problem is, when the engine is not mounted, the buggy roles forward and backwards very smoothly. but when i mount the engine on, it wont role at all. it feels like the brakes are on. it's like something is jammed. by the way it's an ofna hyper .21 pullstart engine. i havnt tried firing up the buggy yet because i'm afraid either the engine or the gears on the buggy will get jammed and get damaged. when i have it sitting on the ground, i've noticed that when i pull on the pullstart, the buggy will jerk forward. is this normal? according to the seller he only used it to break in the engine but decided to sell it because he wanted to try an engine without a pullstart. i took the engine apart and it's pretty clean and in new condition. did i buy a dud?
09-02-2010, 12:26 AM
#2
Hey guys i just built my first nitro buggy, the D8. as my first engine, i decided to buy a used engine on ebay so i did not need to go through the process of braking it in. my question and problem is, when the engine is not mounted, the buggy roles forward and backwards very smoothly. but when i mount the engine on, it wont role at all. it feels like the brakes are on. it's like something is jammed. by the way it's an ofna hyper .21 pullstart engine. i havnt tried firing up the buggy yet because i'm afraid either the engine or the gears on the buggy will get jammed and get damaged. when i have it sitting on the ground, i've noticed that when i pull on the pullstart, the buggy will jerk forward. is this normal? according to the seller he only used it to break in the engine but decided to sell it because he wanted to try an engine without a pullstart. i took the engine apart and it's pretty clean and in new condition. did i buy a dud?
ur gear mesh(clutch bell/spur gear) is too tight, make sure you have a
bit of movement(.5-1mm)backlash, I usually do up two screws, say 1 near
front of mota(servo side), and other one near back of mota(opposite side)
near pipe manifold, do up firm, so you can still move mota to get the desired
movement, once ur happy, tighten all screws, and re-check..And regarding
ur car moving when you pull the pullstart, could be ur clutch shoes are engaged on clutch bell, take clutch bell off and check, or it may be related
to the gear mesh also, and my opinion, ditch the pullstart, and get a starterbox...good luck....
09-02-2010, 12:40 AM
#3
granpa 67, thanks for the fast reply. as for the meshing of the spur gears, i dont think thats the problem but i think you might be right about the clutch bell situation. i'll try that and we'll see if thats the problem. thanks for the help. as for using the pullstart engine, i actually bought a new Werks B5 engine but i kinda got scared and nervous after reading the "Break in Bible". i just bought a used engine to mess around with until i feel more comfortable.
09-02-2010, 01:01 AM
#4
granpa 67, thanks for the fast reply. as for the meshing of the spur gears, i dont think thats the problem but i think you might be right about the clutch bell situation. i'll try that and we'll see if thats the problem. thanks for the help. as for using the pullstart engine, i actually bought a new Werks B5 engine but i kinda got scared and nervous after reading the "Break in Bible". i just bought a used engine to mess around with until i feel more comfortable.
ya decide to break it in, pre heat motor before trying to start it, and ya can
put a stubby holder or wrap head in foil to keep temps up, ya could talk to
guys in ur area to see how they break motas in, as evryone has their own
method(heat cycles etc)...good luck...
09-02-2010, 01:07 AM
#5
I live in Hawaii, not too much people run nitro here. everyone including myself runs electric. just wanted to try nitro, seems a bit more fun than electric. kind of getting bored with electric.
09-02-2010, 01:20 AM
#6
If I was you I would break in the b-6. You really have no idea what the used engine has gone through or what problems could possibly come with it.
With the b-6 you know its new and you learn the ins and outs as you go from breaking it in to tuning it. Sort of a connection thing.
I would also check to make sure your bearings and your clutch shoes are in working order. It could be that the shoes on the clutch have mushroomed so they are sticking to the bell.
If you take the b-6 break in slow you will have no problems. The piston is matched very well to the sleeve making the break in process very simple.
With the b-6 you know its new and you learn the ins and outs as you go from breaking it in to tuning it. Sort of a connection thing.
I would also check to make sure your bearings and your clutch shoes are in working order. It could be that the shoes on the clutch have mushroomed so they are sticking to the bell.
If you take the b-6 break in slow you will have no problems. The piston is matched very well to the sleeve making the break in process very simple.
09-02-2010, 02:16 AM
#7
definate CLUTCH bell problem... pull the bell off, throw the bearings,shoes and springs away, start fresh...
as for break in, heat cycle method works best... its pretty easy, its all stated in the "break-in bible".... read it a few times, PM me if you have questions...
as for break in, heat cycle method works best... its pretty easy, its all stated in the "break-in bible".... read it a few times, PM me if you have questions...
09-02-2010, 02:26 AM
#8
Tech Initiate
The Ofna Engine problem could also be a Clutch related problem.
I would take of the bell, and see whats going on in there.
This sounds especially a clutch problem as when you pull the pullstart it jumps forward. I had this problem in my old car and it was the springs.
I would take of the bell, and see whats going on in there.
This sounds especially a clutch problem as when you pull the pullstart it jumps forward. I had this problem in my old car and it was the springs.
09-02-2010, 05:39 AM
#9
Hi bomber9, if ur buggy wont roll with mota attached, could be that
ur gear mesh(clutch bell/spur gear) is too tight, make sure you have a
bit of movement(.5-1mm)backlash, I usually do up two screws, say 1 near
front of mota(servo side), and other one near back of mota(opposite side)
near pipe manifold, do up firm, so you can still move mota to get the desired
movement, once ur happy, tighten all screws, and re-check..And regarding
ur car moving when you pull the pullstart, could be ur clutch shoes are engaged on clutch bell, take clutch bell off and check, or it may be related
to the gear mesh also, and my opinion, ditch the pullstart, and get a starterbox...good luck....
ur gear mesh(clutch bell/spur gear) is too tight, make sure you have a
bit of movement(.5-1mm)backlash, I usually do up two screws, say 1 near
front of mota(servo side), and other one near back of mota(opposite side)
near pipe manifold, do up firm, so you can still move mota to get the desired
movement, once ur happy, tighten all screws, and re-check..And regarding
ur car moving when you pull the pullstart, could be ur clutch shoes are engaged on clutch bell, take clutch bell off and check, or it may be related
to the gear mesh also, and my opinion, ditch the pullstart, and get a starterbox...good luck....
09-02-2010, 05:57 AM
#11
if your a newer guy to nitro the break in bible might seem a bit confusing,
its really not to bad once you study it, but another option to avoid from damaging the dialed Werks engine you have, is you could always send it to
The Speed Shop and he can break it in for you, I am sure if you sent him your clutch he could also install it for you as well, that way you just get it back head over to the Werks thread and get help tuning it in correctly for your area. plus the Speed Shop prices are very reasonable. He has a thread on here as well. just a thought. the pullstart engines are a bitch to tune I do know that, dont let it turn you off of nitro when you have the best engine made right there with you.
its really not to bad once you study it, but another option to avoid from damaging the dialed Werks engine you have, is you could always send it to
The Speed Shop and he can break it in for you, I am sure if you sent him your clutch he could also install it for you as well, that way you just get it back head over to the Werks thread and get help tuning it in correctly for your area. plus the Speed Shop prices are very reasonable. He has a thread on here as well. just a thought. the pullstart engines are a bitch to tune I do know that, dont let it turn you off of nitro when you have the best engine made right there with you.
09-02-2010, 05:57 AM
#12
definate CLUTCH bell problem... pull the bell off, throw the bearings,shoes and springs away, start fresh...
as for break in, heat cycle method works best... its pretty easy, its all stated in the "break-in bible".... read it a few times, PM me if you have questions...
as for break in, heat cycle method works best... its pretty easy, its all stated in the "break-in bible".... read it a few times, PM me if you have questions...
09-02-2010, 06:06 AM
#13
I would say buying a used engine is a big no no unless its new which means never mounted or broke in. Never try to avoid break in because sooner or later you will need it, and as far as ur clutch bell etc if the stuff is used and worn just buy all new and start fresh unless the stuff is still in good shape but if the clutch bell is bad replace it and bearings or replace bearing, clutches, spings.
09-02-2010, 06:15 AM
#14
I would say buying a used engine is a big no no unless its new which means never mounted or broke in. Never try to avoid break in because sooner or later you will need it, and as far as ur clutch bell etc if the stuff is used and worn just buy all new and start fresh unless the stuff is still in good shape but if the clutch bell is bad replace it and bearings or replace bearing, clutches, spings.
+1 i learned a big lesson with doing that.
