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Old 09-02-2010, 01:30 AM   #16
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Well some people wont let water touch their rides. I for one love to use water with high pressure.

Here is what I use and I love it. By the way I use KALGARD 30 30 on all bearings before and after. This thing is awesome and makes quick work.

http://www.amazon.com/Ontel-WJET-MC6.../dp/B00315HTGE
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Old 09-02-2010, 04:07 AM   #17
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This is what I use to clean tires and bodys and the truggys .http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-Milton-S-157...item1c15047b12 It uses very little water and cleans great, with the air compressor .
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Old 09-02-2010, 04:47 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by off road god View Post
Since when is Simple Green caustic to anything?
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Originally Posted by KWT-NITRO View Post
i've been cleaning with simple green for the last 3 years and never noticed anything wrong with any metal part

Ali

Google simple green and Hydrogen Embrittlement

Just remember simple green is a very alkaline solution and as such can affect things at a molecular level. you may not see anything even after that bolt snaps or chassis cracks.

I know after my extensive experience with it for bicycles, I am not a fan. Its good for greasy spots on the floor. not much else.
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Old 09-02-2010, 05:11 AM   #19
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Google simple green and Hydrogen Embrittlement

Just remember simple green is a very alkaline solution and as such can affect things at a molecular level. you may not see anything even after that bolt snaps or chassis cracks..

Dude, you are seriously reaching.....

Highly doubtfull with simplegreen.........

The embrittlement of of metal or alloy by atomic hydrogen involves the ingress of hydrogen into a component, an event that can seriously reduce the ductility and load-bearing capacity, cause cracking and catastrophic brittle failures at stresses below the yield stress of susceptible materials. Hydrogen embrittlement occurs in a number of forms but the common features are an applied tensile stress and hydrogen dissolved in the metal.

Examples of hydrogen embrittlement are cracking of weldments or hardened steels when exposed to conditions which inject hydrogen into the component. Presently this phenomenon is not completely understood and hydrogen embrittlement detection, in particular, seems to be one of the most difficult aspects of the problem. Hydrogen embrittlement does not affect all metallic materials equally. The most vulnerable are high-strength steels, titanium alloys and aluminum alloys.

Sources of Hydrogen
Sources of hydrogen causing embrittlement have been encountered in the making of steel, in processing parts, in welding, in storage or containment of hydrogen gas, and related to hydrogen as a contaminant in the environment that is often a by-product of general corrosion.
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Old 09-02-2010, 06:31 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by got_nitro View Post

Dude, you are seriously reaching.....

Highly doubtfull with simplegreen.........

[/U]
all I have is a bunch of broken bike chains, bolts and snapped derailleurs due to its use. If not hydrogen embrittlement than its something else, but I have seen enough stuff messed up from it's use.

The manufacturer of simple green even admits there product is harmful to metals and have alternate products for such uses. the FAA and military have banned its use in aircraft.

No, I am not reaching far at all.

In the end these are just toys cars that failure wont result iin death, but it still sucks to DNF due to a broken screw or driveshaft and it's cause possible from using the wrong cleaner.
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Old 09-02-2010, 06:49 AM   #21
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http://www.harborfreight.com/engine-...gun-97014.html

here is the solution to cleaning, the best 7 bucks you ever spent guaranteed!!!!!!! Mix up your favorite cleaning solution, hook up the compressor and its on! Your rc has never been cleaner. After your done blow it off and apply your Kalgard and its just like new again. I saw a friend with this last weekend and it cut my cleaning time drastically.
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Old 09-02-2010, 07:09 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by losi_racer View Post
O

hey btw r u coming back down 4 nc n feb

thinking about it, If i can get a cheap flight again i will.

Cant seem to get a cheap enough flight for the end of the month

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I take engine, radio gear, and fuel tank out. Spray with simple green in sink and scrub with a toothbrush. Rinse off in sink with sprayer with VERY low pressure. Pat dry and put on air conditioner compressor outside(fan drys it well. Not sure what i'll do in the winter). Bring it in after its dry and spray cloth with WD-40 and wipe it down.

I feel like taking it apart each time wears things out. You'll tend to strip screws and plastics.

wears thing's out ? Do you ever drive your car ?


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Originally Posted by Brian Alderman View Post
http://www.harborfreight.com/engine-...gun-97014.html

here is the solution to cleaning, the best 7 bucks you ever spent guaranteed!!!!!!! Mix up your favorite cleaning solution, hook up the compressor and its on! Your rc has never been cleaner. After your done blow it off and apply your Kalgard and its just like new again. I saw a friend with this last weekend and it cut my cleaning time drastically.
that's pretty interesting, I know alot of guys dont mind a little rusty water in their compressor due to the Fine Mist that aids in cleaning the car's but this throws a whole new spin on it.
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Old 09-02-2010, 07:11 AM   #23
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Finishline - Super Bike Wash or O'Donnell Super Wash (similar)

I only use this one product to clean my truggy....Its gets grease and oils off, it lubricates and prevents rust.....

I dont care what servos you have, its best to take the radio tray out, remove engine and fuel tank....

Cover with a good layer of Finishline - Super Bike Wash (really dirty rinse first)
Let sit for 2 or 3 minutes
With a mist rinse off.
Blow dry with compressor.


It is very important to disassemble and check parts for wear and damage from time to time.... just because you cleaned it, dont make it ready do go...

I DO use and praise Kal Gard Products...

CONTACT CLEANER - for Electronics
DE-GREASER - for bearings, diff cases, ect.
PREP&SHINE - makes your ride look good....and it smells good too.
PRO-SHINE - to keep your body looking good.


Some people make cleaning these TOYS way to complicated.
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Old 09-02-2010, 07:22 AM   #24
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guys has anyone tried meguires soft wash? its ph neutral and i use it on my 1:1 car i might give it a try this weekend.
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Old 09-02-2010, 07:29 AM   #25
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I just use a mix of simple green, wd40, prep & shine and some 30-30. Not sure if its scientifically correct to mix that stuff, but I feel it provides great lubricant before using the hose. So I use that pre-soak then hose it off.

Then I 30-30 the bearingss and outdrives, and use the compressor to dry the car.

Finally a layer of prep and shine and then she looks great again.
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Last edited by Andy Z; 09-02-2010 at 07:41 AM.
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Old 09-02-2010, 07:32 AM   #26
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Integra-I always try to keep my tank drained, but you need to get one of these dude, it works well. You can adjust how much solution you want and spray away!
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Old 09-02-2010, 09:56 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Integra View Post
thinking about it, If i can get a cheap flight again i will.

Cant seem to get a cheap enough flight for the end of the month




wears thing's out ? Do you ever drive your car ?




that's pretty interesting, I know alot of guys dont mind a little rusty water in their compressor due to the Fine Mist that aids in cleaning the car's but this throws a whole new spin on it.
I hope any one would use thier head with this and air line is cheap. Dont spray towards the compressor and you wont have a problem. Its that simple .
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Old 09-02-2010, 10:38 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by guntek18 View Post
MY servos are high-end, meaning that they are sealed. my receiver box is too.
I cap off the carb. opening. I power-wash my intire truggy/truggies, never aiming directly at the servos, use air gun to blow off as much water as possible, then finnish off w/ a light coating of wd-40. done it this way for years...."show-room new".
Yeah my servos are high end too, but i still managed to get water into one and burn it up. Sure i have a warrantee but what do you do in the 2 weeks it takes to get it replaced? Best to just take the radio tray off, it takes all of about 3 minutes to do and you can get it clean under the radio tray where you might have dirt otherwise.
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Old 09-02-2010, 10:42 AM   #29
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And by burn up i mean it started on fire and melted the plastic case. Smoke was billowing out from the servo. I disconnected the wiring and blew out the fire. It took probably 20 minutes for it to cool enough to take it out. Luckily the radio tray didn't catch fire, that would have been a catastrophe.

Also the servo was claimed to be waterproof. I think one of the o-rings must have been bad or not put on right at the factory. Certainly can happen.
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Old 09-02-2010, 11:36 AM   #30
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Motor, Tank, radio tray out hit with compressor then simple green hit compressor wipe, then pledge blow wipe done.
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