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Old 08-31-2010, 08:30 AM   #1
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Default Car Setup Guide

Hi.

Yesterday for the first time i tested my 1/10 RTR 4WD buggy in the track. It didn't take a lot for factory's bad setup to be revealed.
The car doesn't steer in high speeds and the major problem is that the rear of the car is generally very aggressive. If you hit the throttle it loses traction immediately and so it cannot be driven in the track at high speeds.
After searching in the web i found that i have to setup some parameters like camber angle, toe, put some oil in differential etc, but i have got confused.

My question is what i have to do in order to make my car's rear holds better in the track and to obtain better steering in the corners?
I have search in the forum for any setup guide but i didn't find anything.

Any suggestions will be helpful.
Thanks.
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Old 08-31-2010, 08:39 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by rctech_new View Post
Hi.

Yesterday for the first time i tested my 1/10 RTR 4WD buggy in the track. It didn't take a lot for factory's bad setup to be revealed.
The car doesn't steer in high speeds and the major problem is that the rear of the car is generally very aggressive. If you hit the throttle it loses traction immediately and so it cannot be driven in the track at high speeds.
After searching in the web i found that i have to setup some parameters like camber angle, toe, put some oil in differential etc, but i have got confused.

My question is what i have to do in order to make my car's rear holds better in the track and to obtain better steering in the corners?
I have search in the forum for any setup guide but i didn't find anything.

Any suggestions will be helpful.
Thanks.
Download the Off-Road Set Up Guide, 3rd one down, this should help you some:

Hudy
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Old 08-31-2010, 08:49 AM   #3
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+1 for the hudy guide print one out and take it with you.
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Old 08-31-2010, 09:01 AM   #4
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Hi there

the hudy setup book is a good read, although contradictory and confusing sometimes. Moreover, it makes sense for setting up a properly maintained racecar, otherwise setup changes are a band-aid on a wooden leg.

Here's a few principles that should help, before you start toying around with suspension setup (others will add to this I'm sure)

1- Car needs to be mechanically in good shape before anything else - nothing bent, nothing binding, nothing assymetric. Take the wheels and shocks off the car, unhook swaybars if any, put car on stand, does the suspension drop without any friction when you lift one of them? If yes, does it still do the same with swaybars? Put wheels back on, pull motor/clutch off the chassis. Spin the wheels - do they spin free for 2-3s with inertia? Put motor clutch back on - same question (should still spin free otherwise clutch is shot) ? Check shocks, do they function without stiction? If everything's right, then time check for symmetry. Are all measurements (camber, caster, droop, throw, blablabla, check the hudy book for the list) the same left to right on each side of the car? Are shocks the same length? Steering the same from left to right? reassemble your car, put it on the ground - then a tricky one - does your suspension have both up- and down-travel, ie you can push on the car, but you can also lift the car a bit before the wheels come off the ground?


2- Assuming you checked all the boxes in 1- , then you've got a "healthy" car. From then on, tires are 95% of your driving "feel". They need to be the right coumpound/pattern, and be true (ie glued properly). Harder compounds typically are mounted on RTR's for less wear, the issue is that driving them sometimes feels like ice-skating, ie doing donuts all the time. Thread is important too, and on this forum we discuss endlessly what tire works best... For 10th scale "performance" bashing, losi studs (red) and proline bowties (M2) are good to great all around tires... but will wear out quicker than the plastic tires sold with the low-cost rtr's. Regularly check for tires coming unglued (ie often on 10th scale) and reglue. This will mess the handling up big time.

3- Then the last 5% you will learn in the hudy setup book

Honestly, if you have checked all the boxes in 1 and 2, you're pretty much there. Most of the beginners whose cars I've wrenched on (offroad, onroad, electric, gas) and who complain about uncontrollable cars typically have rides that fail steps 1 and 2... Once they're straight, symmetric, and free, it changes their owners' lives

Keep us posted,

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Old 08-31-2010, 10:17 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lonestar View Post
Hi there

the hudy setup book is a good read, although contradictory and confusing sometimes. Moreover, it makes sense for setting up a properly maintained racecar, otherwise setup changes are a band-aid on a wooden leg.

...l
I agree, the guide can be contradictory, but thought that I'd post it to give him somewhere to start.
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Old 08-31-2010, 03:55 PM   #6
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i like the hudy article
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Old 08-31-2010, 04:04 PM   #7
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Getting the right tires for the surface your on makes a big difference.
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Old 09-01-2010, 10:54 PM   #8
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FactoryRC is a directory I am putting together.
Search by category: Setups
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Old 09-07-2010, 01:18 PM   #9
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Thanks for your answers. Above links are very helpful, especially hudy setup guide.

What i have done to setup my car. I took some pictures of racing buggies and observed them. Then i tried to copy their setup.
Here are the changes i have made in camber and toe (these parameters was set at 0 degrees from the factory):
  • Front wheels, positive camber and toe out.
  • Rear wheels, negative camber and toe in.
  • Also i have filled differentials with oil, thicker in front differential and thinner in the rear. This car doesn't have central differential.
With this new setup car's behavior is predictable, it is more stable in corners and generally in the track.
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