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Old 08-25-2010, 06:41 PM   #46
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I have done 10 mins twice both times i was out of the bump position and figured why not try, The first time I died 8 feet from the line.

I have the exact same stuff as the op, I still drive the car like an electric 2wd. I am by no means a talented driver, so I think your equipiment should have no problem doing the 10 mins.

Try lower throttle epa and also negative throttle expo, lean it out a bit and dont squeeze hard. Good luck, Im racing my 9th race on sunday and cant wait its been a few weeks.

Joe
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Old 08-25-2010, 06:56 PM   #47
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75% proper tune ,ie. ,fuel,pipe,plug,clutch,restrictor,needles, etc.
th rest is track layout , dirt surface (proper tire choice helps) , throttle finger , freeness of drivetrain , etc. etc.

im sure there are a few more things but these are major

smaller restrictors , properly leaned out and running a little higher temps will increase runtimes by a HUGE margin
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Old 08-25-2010, 07:05 PM   #48
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I'll start off by saying I'm not sponsored in any way since this was discussed on the first page of this thread.

It's seriously not *that* hard to make 10mins IF you're a good racer and use your head.

You will have to pick your pipe/engine/clutch/tires very carefully and be a GOOD, SMOOTH driver and not waste fuel.

*Almost* any box-stock Novarossi engine will make 10-mins with minimal fuss.

The Werks engines will too.

And certain OS's will.

Pretty much any of your mid to higher line race .21's are capable of doing this out of the box.

You don't have to run excessive fuel line, or any "hidden" resevoirs.

You DO have to pick the proper glowplug for weather conditions and needle accordingly.

Fuel plays a role as well, but so long as you're running Byron's, Sidewinder, Nitrotane, Coldfusion, or EBMods fuel; you won't have an issue either.

Outside of that, you pretty much have to work real hard on your driving and tuning skills.
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Old 08-25-2010, 07:24 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by token View Post
I know how to get 10 mins per tank - drive slow and stay on your lid...
Ain't that the truth.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jnslprd View Post
I have done 10 mins twice both times i was out of the bump position and figured why not try, The first time I died 8 feet from the line.

I have the exact same stuff as the op, I still drive the car like an electric 2wd. I am by no means a talented driver, so I think your equipiment should have no problem doing the 10 mins.

Try lower throttle epa and also negative throttle expo, lean it out a bit and dont squeeze hard. Good luck, Im racing my 9th race on sunday and cant wait its been a few weeks.

Joe
Naa your a good driver joe you just need to adjust to the change in class. Nitro buggy is very hard and frustrating sometimes but when you get it clicking it feels soo good.

The barn layout is easier now (i think so atleast) and if you go i think your gonna have a awesome day. Less blind spots from the last one.
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Old 08-25-2010, 07:37 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mblgjr View Post
I'll start off by saying I'm not sponsored in any way since this was discussed on the first page of this thread.

It's seriously not *that* hard to make 10mins IF you're a good racer and use your head.

You will have to pick your pipe/engine/clutch/tires very carefully and be a GOOD, SMOOTH driver and not waste fuel.

*Almost* any box-stock Novarossi engine will make 10-mins with minimal fuss.

The Werks engines will too.

And certain OS's will.

Pretty much any of your mid to higher line race .21's are capable of doing this out of the box.

You don't have to run excessive fuel line, or any "hidden" resevoirs.

You DO have to pick the proper glowplug for weather conditions and needle accordingly.

Fuel plays a role as well, but so long as you're running Byron's, Sidewinder, Nitrotane, Coldfusion, or EBMods fuel; you won't have an issue either.

Outside of that, you pretty much have to work real hard on your driving and tuning skills.
All OS .21's will go 10 minutes when properly set-up. Speed, V-spec, Ninja, Pro Mod, LE v-spec... All of those will do it with ease. I don't count the VG

Odonnell fuel works good too.
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Old 08-25-2010, 07:40 PM   #51
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something to keep in mind, if you use to small of a restrictor you will actually use more fuel because your giving it more throttle everywhere.
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Old 08-25-2010, 07:53 PM   #52
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In my vspec matters the track bigger track with more obstacles I can pit about 9-10min matters were Im standing in the race, smaller track and open layout lots of on power I'll pit about 8-9 again mattering were I'm standing. P3, 2060, 13t/46t, 1.0 clutch springs, 7mm restrictor. I know I could do a pit easy 10min but my motor will have to have an awesome tune on it and the track can't blow out and ill need to stay smooth. Changing track conditions can make a good 30seconds to 1 minute run time change.

Andy
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Old 08-25-2010, 07:58 PM   #53
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I think the best i've ever gotten out of any engine of mine is about 8 1/2 to 9 minutes..but then again I don't have the smoothest finger and because of my aggression I spin tires...I am going to work on this for the next season...there are some solid points in here...
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Old 08-25-2010, 08:11 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by losi_racer View Post
something to keep in mind, if you use to small of a restrictor you will actually use more fuel because your giving it more throttle everywhere.
I can't agree more. I like big restrictors. They smooth out the powerband, provide more top end, and if you drive correctly(smooth and under control... just because it's there doesn't mean you have to use it) you will get awesome mileage.
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Old 08-25-2010, 09:03 PM   #55
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I am now modding engines for mileage, I actually add material to the crank but at the same time lighten it. I am seeing 1.5 minutes more runtime average.

Rex
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Old 08-25-2010, 09:34 PM   #56
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Idle gap, needle settings and your trigger finger.
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Old 08-25-2010, 10:57 PM   #57
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A smaller carburetor insert really increases the velocity of the air coming in to the carburetor, as well as redirecting it as it passes the spray bar. If you go small enough, eventually it will choke it out, but like was said above, you could see the mileage drop because you're laying on the trigger all the time. I have actually seen the engine temp go up and mileage get worse. There is so much going on inside the engine, it's tough to say what a particular carb insert will do until you try it.

Good fuel, conservative porting and timing, good tune, and smooth throttle finger will get good mileage.

How does an engine "modder" get better mileage? The only way I know how is by reducing the crankcase pressure by removing material, but then you sacrifice power...
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Old 08-26-2010, 12:19 AM   #58
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Quote:
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A smaller carburetor insert really increases the velocity of the air coming in to the carburetor, as well as redirecting it as it passes the spray bar. If you go small enough, eventually it will choke it out, but like was said above, you could see the mileage drop because you're laying on the trigger all the time. I have actually seen the engine temp go up and mileage get worse. There is so much going on inside the engine, it's tough to say what a particular carb insert will do until you try it.

Good fuel, conservative porting and timing, good tune, and smooth throttle finger will get good mileage.

How does an engine "modder" get better mileage? The only way I know how is by reducing the crankcase pressure by removing material, but then you sacrifice power...
+1 on the carb venturi explanation. It can actually hurt your overall engine performance, less power and a smaller tune window generally equals higher temps. I'm talking about 5.5mm/6mm venturi's even 6.5mm venturi's during the hot summer months can play a factor in fuel mileage Why? Because drivers who are acustom to good power will alway be looking for the same and will not always find it, going smaller.

Modified engines IN GENERAL will give you less fuel mileage. I know of a legendary modifier who has since passed away teach me alot about engines.

Considering all the variables with car, driver, tune, tires, track layout/surface etc.,
What about fuel???

I know for a fact fuel can make a difference when all variables are considered. I have seen a 45 second difference and cooler temps when good fuel is used. IMO- BryonsGEN2 & Sidewinder Purple are the best on the market.

What about the pro drivers? I'm talking about the top 25 who are always in contention to make an A-main at any regional, national or world event. Are they all getting 10mins? I personally know many who are not. I know some who get more out of same engine then the other.

I think it's safe to say we all know someone who is able to make 10+mins run time. But as someone wrote earlier, what does it matter if most local club or local series races main events are no more than 30 mins anyways.

If you can not get over 11++mins per tank, don't make your pit stops at 10! You need to consider when you last crossed the start/finish line, possible late crash/car on it's lid and track conditons/size.

Racing conditions are different from testing or practicing. Keep in mind further into a main, you will generally have more wheel spin/worn tires, diff oils loosing their touch etc. I know this from experience and being at many big races on-road and off-road.

Play it safe and worry about finishing a race not attempting to make 1 less fuel stop if the calculations are not fully exhausted.
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Old 08-26-2010, 02:19 AM   #59
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just another idea try putting a nitro cooler in it might get you an extra 30 secs give or take
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Old 08-26-2010, 03:20 AM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony Newland View Post
good post David....

I'll add a couple things from my own experience, going 10 mins doesnt play much of a role unless pit lane is a 10+ second delay (same amount of time as a single wreck requiring a slow marshal) or the main is 60 mins long. Concentrating on running the entire main without a single wreck will make you faster than 15mins of runtime

In 30-45min mains its little or no advantage to go 10 mins and risk a flameout. Runtime changes the longer you run the engine.... 10 mins at the begining of the main more often than not, wont equal 10 mins after the car has been ran for 45 mins straight in the dirt. Its always less, especially if you have to run the engine temps higher to make it.

At small tracks it very easy to get 10+mins of runtime, but small tracks are generally only a club race, so using that information at a big track at a big race is usually a bad choice. measuring runtime is more a measure of the circumstances and the knowledge of the person involved. If Drake makes 10mins, you have to consider what he has at his disposal to make that happen.

Moral: practice racing for 30mins straight without a single wreck with a good pace. I guarrantee that will win more races than any engine run time, miracle tire or miracle car
And now the MOST INTELLIGENT POST OF 2010 AWARD !

And the winner is...

(drumroll please)

TONY NEWLAND.
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