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Old 08-13-2010, 05:13 PM   #1
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Hey im gonna be getting my motor tommorrow. Whats the best way to break it in. I only have about 2-3 hours to break it in. Is it possible? its a go gx5r. Thanks
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Old 08-13-2010, 05:17 PM   #2
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Hey im gonna be getting my motor tommorrow. Whats the best way to break it in. I only have about 2-3 hours to break it in. Is it possible? its a go gx5r. Thanks
A bench break in would be the best. I had to do this once but the engine was a Werks B-5. Whats nice about the B-5 is that the piston is well matched to the sleeve therefore making the break in less long.

I was able to do 6 tanks on the stand. One qualifier set at rich. Second qualifier race tuned it.

Took less than an hour.
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Old 08-13-2010, 05:18 PM   #3
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5 hours???? forget it but good luck and let me know what motor other you will be buying in a few days

some will tell you it can be done but that motor will not be completely broke in in 5 hours after you get it.
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Old 08-13-2010, 05:26 PM   #4
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Buy an engine from Clockwork Racing Engines, Neils hand lapped pistons only need a coulpe of heat cycles and they are ready to race!

www.clockworkracingengines.com
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Old 08-13-2010, 05:26 PM   #5
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5 hours???? forget it but good luck and let me know what motor other you will be buying in a few days

some will tell you it can be done but that motor will not be completely broke in in 5 hours after you get it.
ill get it around 2/3 racing starts at 5 and ill have till 6/630 before my first qually.
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Old 08-13-2010, 05:49 PM   #6
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3x5 min heat cycles on the bench in the car with head covered @ 190-210°
3x10 min heat cycles in the car on the ground with body on @190-210°
3x30 min heat cycles in the car on the ground with body on @ 190-210°

preheat before each start and let engine cool at bdc
when running on the ground , be careful not to over rev engine and do not run the car around blubbering rich , you only want engine at slightly rich from race tune for proper break in .

have done hundreds of engines and this method has worked very well at lapping in piston/sleeve set to make a very nice compression seal fit and doing it fairly quick


hope this helps ,
monty
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Old 08-13-2010, 06:08 PM   #7
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3x5 min heat cycles on the bench in the car with head covered @ 190-210°
3x10 min heat cycles in the car on the ground with body on @190-210°
3x30 min heat cycles in the car on the ground with body on @ 190-210°

preheat before each start and let engine cool at bdc
I defer to your expertise but the running is still 2:15 hours at your specified temp without the cool down process. I assume it will take some time to get up to temp even with a heat gun so I am thinking adding 30 extra min with install. If he gets the motor at 2 and runs at 6 or 6:30, he has only 4.5 hours. Is the motor being delivered to the track or do you have drive time? I just think he is cutting it close and I still cannot see it being done in time.
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Old 08-13-2010, 06:14 PM   #8
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I defer to your expertise but the running is still 2:15 hours at your specified temp without the cool down process. I assume it will take some time to get up to temp even with a heat gun so I am thinking adding 30 extra min with install. If he gets the motor at 2 and runs at 6 or 6:30, he has only 4.5 hours. Is the motor being delivered to the track or do you have drive time? I just think he is cutting it close and I still cannot see it being done in time.
the last two 30 min cycles can be done on the track (thats the fun part) but just be sure to ease off going down the straight/s and no mercy revs while in the air or upside down waiting for marshall
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Old 08-13-2010, 06:24 PM   #9
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3x5 min heat cycles on the bench in the car with head covered @ 190-210°
3x10 min heat cycles in the car on the ground with body on @190-210°
3x30 min heat cycles in the car on the ground with body on @ 190-210°

preheat before each start and let engine cool at bdc
when running on the ground , be careful not to over rev engine and do not run the car around blubbering rich , you only want engine at slightly rich from race tune for proper break in .

have done hundreds of engines and this method has worked very well at lapping in piston/sleeve set to make a very nice compression seal fit and doing it fairly quick


hope this helps ,
monty
That first part what does that mean? Like a break in bench? I dont got one?? And when i cool it can i use a fan?
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Old 08-13-2010, 06:28 PM   #10
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Hey im gonna be getting my motor tommorrow. Whats the best way to break it in. I only have about 2-3 hours to break it in. Is it possible? its a go gx5r. Thanks
GET A DIFF MOTOR! I've been down that route with that engine, and that thing has tons of pinch man, you'll experience ghost flameouts. After giving up I actually had to revert back to an older engine. The Go was used in my second race and it was a blast
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Old 08-13-2010, 06:37 PM   #11
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After each heat cycle you need to let it cool down for at least 20 mins this conditions the metals somthey will work well togeather. I don't think 3 hours is enough.
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Old 08-13-2010, 06:47 PM   #12
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That first part what does that mean? Like a break in bench? I dont got one?? And when i cool it can i use a fan?
i use Monty's method all the time and its the best, the first part is when you have your car running at idle or a bit higher than idle speed while car resting on a stand. wrap the head and play with needles to get it up to temp.

no dont use a fan as you need it to cool naturally.

2 hours to break-in a motor, i've seen it done but the motor lasted for the same race. and it was a GO engine too. good luck

cheers

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Old 08-13-2010, 07:03 PM   #13
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Let me start off by saying that this is NOT my preferred method of breaking in a motor. That being said, many people swear by it, including Josh Cyrul who is often credited with its popularization. You will hear it referred to as either the "Cyrul Method" or the "WOT Method" for Wide Open Throttle. If you absolutely HAVE to break in a motor in a hurry, this will get it done.

Start it up on the factory settings. Once running, richen it, open the throttle and richen it some more until the thing is running at basically a high idle speed while staying wide open.

Run a bunch of tanks through it this way (maybe half a gallon or more if it's one of those super tight, lock up all the time kind of motors or less if it's a looser motor), then let it cool down. Put it on the track and run around a few more tanks on a rich setting before you start to race tune it.

Again, I don't like it but I did try it once in a pinch and it worked just fine.
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Old 08-13-2010, 07:16 PM   #14
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Found the thread about it. You might need to add a few more tanks to it for todays super tight motors.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/exclusiv...rocedures.html
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Old 08-13-2010, 07:28 PM   #15
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GET A DIFF MOTOR! I've been down that route with that engine, and that thing has tons of pinch man, you'll experience ghost flameouts. After giving up I actually had to revert back to an older engine. The Go was used in my second race and it was a blast
Agreed, go motors take absolutely forever to break in in my experience, rush it and you'll tear something up and ruin it quickly. I would skip it or get a different motor period.
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