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Old 08-06-2010, 11:25 AM   #1
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Default Bearing pullers vs. Heat method

I just bought a new Hudy bearing puller/installer and it arrived at my door today. Between the time I bought the bearing puller/installer I've been reading various opinions on the topic of replacing engine bearings.

Some claim you should only ever use the heat method because it doesn't harm the engine block in any way. Those people claim that using a bearing puller/installer can remove material from the inside of the engine block and over-time this can cause the bearings not to seat properly.

I'm now debating if I want to keep this bearing puller/installer or send it back. I like having the right tools for the job, but if this isn't the right tool and I can save a few bucks, then that's the direction to go. I'm looking for some opinions from those with experience in working on their Nitro engines.
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Old 08-06-2010, 11:28 AM   #2
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Use the tool with some heat and you are golden!!!! I have been doing it like that for a long time!!! And no problems at all....
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Old 08-06-2010, 11:29 AM   #3
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I'm an automotive technician and spend thousands on tools. I spare no expense with my RC tools as well. I've looked at bearing pullers in the past and considered buying them. However it is aluminum blocks and bearings have steel races. I truly beleive that you should heat the engine when using a puller anyway. Having said that I always just use heat to remove and istall bearings. Never had a problem other than having to remove the carb sometimes requires a new seal, but they're cheap

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Old 08-06-2010, 12:25 PM   #4
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I have the Ofna tool,works great.
I always give the block a little heat to expand the fit to releive the stress on the diameters.Especially the front bearing as this has a smaller amount of case around it.
I have used the oven method and this also works well,the advantage with the puller is you don`t have to remove all the o-rings because you don`t need to heat as much.
As with everything,it gets easier the more you do it
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Old 08-06-2010, 12:27 PM   #5
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Use the tool with some heat and you are golden!!!! I have been doing it like that for a long time!!! And no problems at all....
+1. This is the best way.
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Old 08-06-2010, 12:41 PM   #6
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you still want to use heat with the tool, makes it alot easier on everything, i just use heat gun dont really have to heat up as much as you would if you are not using tool
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Old 08-06-2010, 01:01 PM   #7
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These blocks only last so long and a descent of bearings should go 4 gal of so maybe more. That means if you are a cheap bastard and run 8-10 gallons and then change the p/s/r for another 8 to 10 gallons you change the bearings 4-5 times maybe less? I doubt that is going to make a difference. I use the grp tool (just like the hudy one) and the bearings always go in tight and no issues without heat. I understand the theory and I agree with it but IMO it's just not necessary to heat the block up.
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Old 08-06-2010, 01:16 PM   #8
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i too bought the Hudy puller. It works perfect. money well spent.
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Old 08-06-2010, 01:25 PM   #9
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Its better to use a little heat and freeze the bearing. But if you are at a race and you have limited power and are in a pinch, you can do it without heat.
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Old 08-06-2010, 01:41 PM   #10
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i too bought the Hudy puller. It works perfect. money well spent.
Lucky Bastard! I opened up my O.S. V Spec VZ-B and I can't get the sleeve to budge! I can't get the carb out either and I don't want to risk ruining the carb sleeve or piston sleeve. The engine runs fine and it was simply preventive maintenance, so I'm just leaving well enough alone. Although I can see a tiny bit of plan in the crank pin and I had a new Ninja crank to install, I guess I'm just going to return it and run the engine until it gives up the ghost. I'm the prime example of "if it weren't for bad luck, I'd have no luck at all "
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Old 08-06-2010, 02:39 PM   #11
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Lucky Bastard! I opened up my O.S. V Spec VZ-B and I can't get the sleeve to budge! I can't get the carb out either and I don't want to risk ruining the carb sleeve or piston sleeve. The engine runs fine and it was simply preventive maintenance, so I'm just leaving well enough alone. Although I can see a tiny bit of plan in the crank pin and I had a new Ninja crank to install, I guess I'm just going to return it and run the engine until it gives up the ghost. I'm the prime example of "if it weren't for bad luck, I'd have no luck at all "
You need the help of a zip tie to help loosen the sleeve. Remove head, leave your flywheel and nut attached to the crank, place the zip tie through the top and out of the exhaust port (make sure piston is lowered), then twist your crank using the flywheel as leverage and it should slowly pop out. You may need to pry it out carefully with a flat head screw driver depending on how tight it is.
Loosen the nut that holds the carb in place and give the carb a few twists, it will be tight at 1st, but then will loosen. You may need to use a set of needle nose pliers for better leverage.
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Old 08-06-2010, 03:15 PM   #12
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Default Be careful on instalation

I replaced my engine bearings on the p5, and I had issues after 3/4 gallon. I talked to Novarossi USA and they said I needed to use a bearing installer to properly seat the bearings. I don't really know what happened, but long story short, make sure you install the bearings perfectly, or else a lot of things......

I'm a little gun shy with doing the bearings now, I hope I get it right next time.
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Old 08-06-2010, 04:20 PM   #13
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i use heat and have had done so for over 1,000 engines easily and have had no issues , heat only around the bearing you are changing , pop the old one out , have the new one on the crank ready to go and pop in as soon as old one is out .either quinch the block to grab the bearing or let cool naturally (i quinch ) make sure bearing is seated properly by tapping on the butt end of the crank , this method uses the crank as the alignment tool . front bearing simply apply small amount of heat tap out from the rear of the bearing and tap new bearing just a little at a time as not to gall the aluminum .

hope this helps
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Old 08-06-2010, 04:40 PM   #14
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I am replacing the bearings on my vspec worlds and i didnt have a puller, i simply put my engine in my mini toaster overn at 350 degrees for 10 minutes and the bearings fell right out!
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Old 08-06-2010, 05:20 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by houston View Post
i use heat and have had done so for over 1,000 engines easily and have had no issues , heat only around the bearing you are changing , pop the old one out , have the new one on the crank ready to go and pop in as soon as old one is out .either quinch the block to grab the bearing or let cool naturally (i quinch ) make sure bearing is seated properly by tapping on the butt end of the crank , this method uses the crank as the alignment tool . front bearing simply apply small amount of heat tap out from the rear of the bearing and tap new bearing just a little at a time as not to gall the aluminum .

hope this helps
That certainly seems simple enough,just wondering if a video has been done and loaded to youtube ? .
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