mcion

iTrader: (32)

Actually I bought the HUDY setup system and it came with the manual. Sits in my restroom and that is all I read lol.

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

busted silicon o-rings

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

M2C setup helps considerably on the car I think you're talking about... 10mn is a bit stretch though. 15mn is more reasonable, even with power tools

Paul

dishsoap

iTrader: (8)

I knew someone would agree, specially that front diff. Not fun!!!! Doug your smoking crack. 5 to 10 min to do the whole car your nuts

Anyone can tear down quickly. Its the cleaning and rebuilding. I guess I rebuild my diffs different. I take every single gear, shim, O ring and cross bar apart and clean individually. I then pull the bearings to clean and wipe off the dirt that is on the outside of the case. I then I put it all back together piece by piece and fill.

Ananda Robinson

iTrader: (4)

Doing this and going up .5 on the shock oil in my buggy made A HUGE difference for me, a properly setup suspension is the difference from an ok buggy to one that's on rails.

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

You are completely right I do it this way too... at home

At the track between heats, if I need to change diff oil (usually I have a spare diff already ready to bolt-on, but still, it happens), I do it the quick and dirty way, ie take as much of the gunk off with kitchen towels, and refill without any afterthought... don't even think about cleaning bearings

Again - you are doing it the right way Just don't use brake cleaner on these silicon o-rings

Paul

losi_racer

iTrader: (25)

Lol, mugen may be harder, the losi is cake, its simple. that car takes no time to take completely apart. I do the same as you for the diffs, i take every thing out clean, inspect and put back together and fill. Now i dont take my diff and put it in cleaner and wait blah blah blah. my diffs are just as clean as the way they do it. spray the diffs down with contact cleaner, put a rag on the diff and spray thru the rag with an air compressor, this cleans it very well. Then i do a wipe of the diff case to make sure i got everything and reassemble and fill. This really takes from the min i take it apart till im ready to hit the track about 10 min.

mcion

iTrader: (32)

Instead of break cleaner, I normally use simple green. For Engines I use brake cleaner no chlorinated.

Integra

iTrader: (8)

You seem all too confident doug...I want Video Proof now.....

losi_racer

iTrader: (25)

i am not making a video lol, ill do it at nitro challenge just for you nick : p. stuff does happen(stripped screw,lost screw, damaged part) so that time is strictly take out,clean,fill,reassemble. All ive owned is losi, i work on both my buggy and truggy and do work on my dads truggy so ive had a lot of wrench time on these. other ppl have claimed to this time to, i dont think its fast, i would think its normal

Integra

iTrader: (8)

pshh....excuses excuses.

Matt Piva

iTrader: (25)

ill post my opinion here since im more in the class that most ppl on rctech r n thats sportsman who just moved to intermediate n having fun, when it comes to my set up on my losi truck i keep it SIMPLE, i first put my car on the track n usually it has a pretty standard box stock set up with minor changes like rear diff n shock oils, ill go out n drive 2 tanks after im done i usually think about whats up n how were handling, first thing i always think about is my corner grip if its pushing, twitchy, to high or to low on ride hight, or if the diffs need work, usually ill be fine with shock oils cause my losi works great when it gets bumpy no matter what lol so i keep at that the same. i never really make changes on camber links or shock positions cause average drivers wont notice that n im average n i honestly dont notice change in feel when i change that stuff. basically for average drivers start with your box stock setup because thats what guys like adam drake spent hours testing for, from there start tuning ur car in starting with ur diff/shock oils then ur camber/toe angles and then if u need more u can play with shock positions n camber hole positions. more then likly if ur not very picky n finicky diff n shock oils will fix most problems n if that doesnt changing the degree of ur toe n camber will, its when u start changeing everything around u will lose ur car completly n ur car will feel like sh*t. i honestly have my car dialed in n its pretty much stock exept rear diff is thicker n my shocks r thicker n i have the v2 tower. stock setups always feel nutral n r close to dialed u just need to do a lil final work to make it u!

AZRC4Me

iTrader: (8)

I determine loose vs high traction usually on corner entry or exit. If the car has chassis roll but doesn't turn in sharply, i.e. it slides, it's a bit loose. On exit, when I ease onto the throttle if the rear wants to slide out, it's loose. If the chassis rolls but picks up the inside tire, it's high bite and my suspension is probably too soft or I have too much chassis roll. Remember, loose is faster than tight, so modulate the throttle and be smooth.

The best advice I can give you is go to your track and give your car to the best driver there and have him drive it between rounds, heats, whatever the track allows. He'll be able to tell you after a few laps what you need to do. Bend the good drivers' ears off, ask them questions about your car, tell them what you think the car is doing, then listen. Good drivers usually enjoy passing along info. Then, you'll have an idea of what to do and you can make one change at a time until you get something you like. Good luck!

mcion

iTrader: (32)

Good Info right there regarding traction ^^

jk1152

I do it this way at the track. If I just rebuilt my diff for a big race (cleaned every part of the diff) then I will just take the air compressor and blow out the diff oil. I place a paper towel on my hand to try to not get it everywhere.