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Old 08-04-2010, 03:02 PM   #16
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That takes 10 minutes...
Guess i need to invest in one of those small drills.
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Old 08-04-2010, 03:28 PM   #17
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Guess i need to invest in one of those small drills.

One of the best purchases you'll make in this hobby. IMO
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Old 08-04-2010, 04:10 PM   #18
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I like the feel of a tool in my hand....





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Old 08-04-2010, 08:56 PM   #19
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One of the best purchases you'll make in this hobby. IMO


I concur....and Dont get a Big Ol 2lb beast of a drill.


Hitachi's got you covered.


http://www.hitachipowertools.ca/en/P...at=127&pid=236

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Old 08-05-2010, 01:24 AM   #20
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That takes 10 minutes...
Really 10 min to pull, clean, rebuild, refill, seal, cap the case and install?

Not saying you cant do it but that is pretty fast. I am thinking at my best 30 min to do it right even with a power drill. Maybe I am just slow.
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Old 08-05-2010, 02:46 AM   #21
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Really 10 min to pull, clean, rebuild, refill, seal, cap the case and install?

Not saying you cant do it but that is pretty fast. I am thinking at my best 30 min to do it right even with a power drill. Maybe I am just slow.
2 bolts bumper, 2-4 front diff case half, pull diff, 4 bolts, degreaser/brake clean to clean out diff, fill, insert 4 bolts thn diff, re assemble

Wham bam thank you mam
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Old 08-05-2010, 04:50 AM   #22
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2 bolts bumper, 2-4 front diff case half, pull diff, 4 bolts, degreaser/brake clean to clean out diff, fill, insert 4 bolts thn diff, re assemble

Wham bam thank you mam
It's a little more complicated than that on a few buggies ...unfortunately
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Old 08-05-2010, 10:30 AM   #23
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Original question was "How do you know what to adjust for a layout?". Not should I adjust? I'm curious to hear these answers.
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Old 08-05-2010, 01:21 PM   #24
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Yea your right. Sorry I drifted away kind of. But I was really trying to get a procedure down after knowing about a race a week or more in advance.
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Old 08-05-2010, 02:00 PM   #25
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Problem I noticed is the track will change through the weekend. You can figure what will happen by talking to the locals but you really don't get the feel for it till the later quals. I have now raced at most of the tracks around me more than 3 times so I know what to expect at these tracks. I normally just change tires and easy stuff like ride height but I also know I'm losing seconds by not changing anything else. This is mainly due to not being lazy but blaming my driving. With that said I just practice the day before as much as I can. I know not everyone has that opportunity.
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Old 08-05-2010, 04:05 PM   #26
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Aside from tires, two of the fastest, easiest and most effective changes you can do to adjust for track conditions it to adjust your ride height and your droop. start with a basic set-up on your buggy and adjust those 2 to your liking.

General rule of thumb: if the track is loose with little traction, raise your ride height, and increase your droop. for tracks with lots of traction, lower your ride height and lessen your droop. again, these should be small changes. a nice set of digital calipers from Lowes will be your best friend for this.

hope this helps and happy racing!
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Old 08-05-2010, 08:16 PM   #27
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Aside from tires, two of the fastest, easiest and most effective changes you can do to adjust for track conditions it to adjust your ride height and your droop. start with a basic set-up on your buggy and adjust those 2 to your liking.

General rule of thumb: if the track is loose with little traction, raise your ride height, and increase your droop. for tracks with lots of traction, lower your ride height and lessen your droop. again, these should be small changes. a nice set of digital calipers from Lowes will be your best friend for this.

hope this helps and happy racing!
How do you delineate loose vs high traction. The only thing I can think is if I get in the fast line or blue groove and gun the throttle if the car wheelies slightly the traction is high, if the car doesn't its loose. Is that a good way to take it. The reason I ask, is because it seems most dirt tracks are loose, just slightly better grip where the dust has been drivin away.
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Old 08-05-2010, 09:15 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dishsoap View Post
Really 10 min to pull, clean, rebuild, refill, seal, cap the case and install?

Not saying you cant do it but that is pretty fast. I am thinking at my best 30 min to do it right even with a power drill. Maybe I am just slow.
sorry austin your slow lol : P. I can tear the whole truck/buggy apart in like 5-10. diffs play a HUGE roll in set up, these are one thing i made sure i mastered on taking out.


BTW to the original poster question, read the hudy set up manual

(Third item down)
Hudy set up Manual

this helps a lot, it wont make you master it but it helps learn set ups
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Old 08-05-2010, 09:21 PM   #29
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+1 on the hudy book! Lots of good info right there. Losi manuals also have a good bit of setup info at the back.
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Old 08-05-2010, 10:28 PM   #30
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+1 on the hudy book! Lots of good info right there. Losi manuals also have a good bit of setup info at the back.
I still can't figure out why on the clutch chart it mentions 4 aluminum shoes with all gold shoes twice. One has increased punch with slightly less mileage, the other has increased punch with normal mileage. I guess it just depends on the way you install them.

Must have been a mistake by the editors.
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