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Old 07-31-2010, 12:43 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by 8ight-racer View Post
The many small things of the 2.0's just make it that much better than the old 1.0's.
Is not that much difference, all comes down to driver skills and set up.
Going back to the shocks, replace all the orings and take your time when put back together.
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Old 07-31-2010, 01:09 PM   #17
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than il try the 2.0 shock spacer than whats the part # ?
i dont run the vented caps.. by the way but i am thinking about getting them.
A5440 Shock Shaft Bushing
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Old 07-31-2010, 01:15 PM   #18
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A5440 Shock Shaft Bushing

thanks
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Old 07-31-2010, 01:59 PM   #19
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than il try the 2.0 shock spacer than whats the part # ?
i dont run the vented caps.. by the way but i am thinking about getting them.
A5440 like posted but make sure you get them from Horizon or call AMain because there was a running change in the thickness. Don't do the vented caps on your 1.0, just save up for the 2.0.
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Old 07-31-2010, 02:13 PM   #20
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A5440 like posted but make sure you get them from Horizon or call AMain because there was a running change in the thickness. Don't do the vented caps on your 1.0, just save up for the 2.0.



yea but wouldnt the, vented caps make a big diffrence on my eight-t 1.0 ?
its not like there a lot money really.

yea il check out amain.

like i said before i race on a pretty rough rutty track.
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Old 07-31-2010, 03:19 PM   #21
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yea but wouldnt the, vented caps make a big diffrence on my eight-t 1.0 ?
its not like there a lot money really.

yea il check out amain.

like i said before i race on a pretty rough rutty track.
$30 for the caps and $5 for the foam compensator that doesn't work properly. If your on a rough rutted out track the longer shocks and chassis of the 2.0 will really help.
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Old 07-31-2010, 03:28 PM   #22
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$30 for the caps and $5 for the foam compensator that doesn't work properly. If your on a rough rutted out track the longer shocks and chassis of the 2.0 will really help.


well i would just get, 1 pair of the vented caps and try them on the rear and see how they work.

i dont have enough money right, now to get a 2.0 t and im never buying a used truggy/buggy ever again .
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Old 07-31-2010, 03:34 PM   #23
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well i would just get, 1 pair of the vented caps and try them on the rear and see how they work.

i dont have enough money right, now to get a 2.0 t and im never buying a used truggy/buggy ever again .
Remember with the vented caps you will be replacing bladders and oil a lot more. The main reason for the vented caps is for rebound to stay consistent throughout the run. Without vented shocks you will get more rebound as the shocks heat up, causing higher ride height. I have 50% rears and 75% fronts on my 2.0 buggy, try going up to 100% rebound all around, if you don't like it bleed oil until its 50%. As for the ride height issue, my ride height normally only changes 1-2mm over the course of a run so its not a necessity for me.

Don't spend any much money on that 1.0, once you drive a 2.0 you will wonder how you ever drove the 1.0.
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Old 07-31-2010, 03:39 PM   #24
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Remember with the vented caps you will be replacing bladders and oil a lot more. The main reason for the vented caps is for rebound to stay consistent throughout the run. Without vented shocks you will get more rebound as the shocks heat up, causing higher ride height. I have 50% rears and 75% fronts on my 2.0 buggy, try going up to 100% rebound all around, if you don't like it bleed oil until its 50%. As for the ride height issue, my ride height normally only changes 1-2mm over the course of a run so its not a necessity for me.

Don't spend any much money on that 1.0, once you drive a 2.0 you will wonder how you ever drove the 1.0.




yea i dont care for doing shock rebuilds at all, yea ive tried the full rebound , half rebound but it never stays like that anyways. a guy on here pm a good setup for my eight-t 1.0 so im gone to try that.
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