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Old 07-26-2010, 01:54 PM   #1
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Default Driving style, differ with car?

I have heard that a losi is more a finesse drivers car. I was just wondering what you guys thought. Do certain cars fit certain driving styles, if so what cars for what styles.


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Old 07-26-2010, 02:00 PM   #2
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well you are right about, that 1/8 losi need to be driven with finesse at least the eight 1.0 truggy and buggy does. i was racing yesterday and i tried to drive the 1.0 t fast and drive it hard... but it seems like the 1.0 t doesnt like, to be driven fast or push hard really. but than again i run the stock 1.0 t, chassis on a rough rutty track so maybe thats why .


now looking at the guys driving, the 2.0 t they seem to like to be driven hard and fast.
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Old 07-26-2010, 02:11 PM   #3
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The older truggys were not as stable as the latest generation. I was driving a Losi 8ight t 1.0 and the truck just did not like to go faster than a certain speed, I had to push the truck to a certain point depending on the track. That "point" was where I had to drive the truck to get all the speed out of it I could, any harder and it would just get unstable and be a real handful to drive. Now I have a Mugen MBX6T, what a difference, I'm on average 3 seconds a lap faster or more. I don't have to "finesse" drive like I did with the Losi. The Mugen loves to be pushed hard and is much more forgiving.
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Old 07-26-2010, 02:17 PM   #4
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The older truggys were not as stable as the latest generation. I was driving a Losi 8ight t 1.0 and the truck just did not like to go faster than a certain speed, I had to push the truck to a certain point depending on the track. That "point" was where I had to drive the truck to get all the speed out of it I could, any harder and it would just get unstable and be a real handful to drive. Now I have a Mugen MBX6T, what a difference, I'm on average 3 seconds a lap faster or more. I don't have to "finesse" drive like I did with the Losi. The Mugen loves to be pushed hard and is much more forgiving.




using the 1/12 wheelhexs with, the 0 offset does help a lot with the stableness.

but in the rough the eight-t isnt the greastest.

but i do think using the 2.0 t, chassis on the 1.0 t would help big time
to be able to drive it harder and faster.

and im really thinking about getting the 2.0 t chassis.
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Old 07-26-2010, 02:25 PM   #5
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using the 1/12 wheelhexs with, the 0 offset does help a lot with the stableness. but in the rough the eight-t isnt the greastest.

but i do think using the 2.0 t, chassis on the 1.0 t would help big time
to be able to drive it harder and faster.
TC, it would add some stability in a straight line but the longer length in the chassis would take away some steering unless you made other changes to the setup to compensate. I had thought of doing that to my 1.0T but in the end it was cheaper to upgrade to a new truck. One thing to think about with the Losi is that the truck does still have a bit of a push inherent in the design (long chassis - 2.0T), that's the reason for the smart diffs and the inclined spindles, to help with the steering.
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Old 07-26-2010, 02:27 PM   #6
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TC, it would add some stability in a straight line but the longer length in the chassis would take away some steering unless you made other changes to the setup to compensate. I had thought of doing that to my 1.0T but in the end it was cheaper to upgrade to a new truck. One thing to think about with the Losi is that the truck does still have a bit of a push inherent in the design (long chassis - 2.0T), that's the reason for the smart diffs and the inclined spindles, to help with the steering.



so maybe i should just get the 1.0 t flex chassis ? its only about $95.00
i dont have the money right now for a 2.0 t.
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Old 07-26-2010, 02:34 PM   #7
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I switched from losi to mugen. The losi def. likes a little more precise driving in buggy. I think you can pretty much push any truggy. Losi buggy likes to turn off power where others turn more on power.
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Old 07-26-2010, 02:36 PM   #8
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so maybe i should just get the 1.0 t flex chassis ? its only about $95.00
i dont have the money right now for a 2.0 t.
TC save your money and put it torward a new truck, the chassis will only give you a minimal boost in performance. Let's say at your local track you are on average 2 seconds a lap off the pace of the leaders on any given race day. You bolt on the new flex chassis and it only cuts a half second off your lap times. (pretty realistic for that upgrade) You are still 1.5 seconds per lap off the pace of the leaders. a new generation truck could turn a 2 second disadvantage into a 2 second advantage per lap over second place. All from a newer design, yes they are that much better.
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Old 07-26-2010, 02:46 PM   #9
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There's a world of difference between the 1.0 and 2.0 losi truggy. The 1.0 was extremely twitchy, and tailhappy, the 2.0 is much more stable and can be pushed a lot more. The extra 14mm in chassis length and the longer arms really made a difference.
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Old 07-26-2010, 02:49 PM   #10
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There's a world of difference between the 1.0 and 2.0 losi truggy. The 1.0 was extremely twitchy, and tailhappy, the 2.0 is much more stable and can be pushed a lot more. The extra 14mm in chassis length and the longer arms really made a difference.
Boy I wish my 1.0T was tail happy, that damm truck would push like a school bus with 4 flat tires.
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Old 07-26-2010, 03:01 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slider30250 View Post
TC save your money and put it torward a new truck, the chassis will only give you a minimal boost in performance. Let's say at your local track you are on average 2 seconds a lap off the pace of the leaders on any given race day. You bolt on the new flex chassis and it only cuts a half second off your lap times. (pretty realistic for that upgrade) You are still 1.5 seconds per lap off the pace of the leaders. a new generation truck could turn a 2 second disadvantage into a 2 second advantage per lap over second place. All from a newer design, yes they are that much better.



i get you but woulnt the 1.0 t, flex chassis really help with the handling with rutts on the track ? im gone to have to get a new chassis anyways i bought it used and by looking, at it i need a new one anyways.
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Old 07-26-2010, 03:03 PM   #12
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Boy I wish my 1.0T was tail happy, that damm truck would push like a school bus with 4 flat tires.


you are right about the push, the 1.0 t has even with the short steering rack.
im trying to figure out how to get rid of it. on power at least with the short rack it pushs kind of bad when on power.
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Old 07-26-2010, 03:15 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by tc5 man View Post
i get you but woulnt the 1.0 t, flex chassis really help with the handling with rutts on the track ? im gone to have to get a new chassis anyways i bought it used and by looking, at it i need a new one anyways.
If you already have the chassis then there really isn't a reason not to run it, just don't expect a dramatic increase in lap times. An increase in ride height plus a softer spring/shock oil setup would be better for the rough conditions. Reducing your droop setting 2-5mm front and back will help with the ruts


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you are right about the push, the 1.0 t has even with the short steering rack.
im trying to figure out how to get rid of it. on power at least with the short rack it pushs kind of bad when on power.
I stopped running the short ackerman plate, although it would increase steering just off center I would lose steering mid corner due to the extreme angle difference between the inside and outside tires.

The one thing that I did that I didn't get to test before getting my Mugen was the 4.4 (silver spring) up front and the 4.3 (purple spring) rear with 35 wt shock oil front and back. By squaring up the spring and shock oils generally you will dial in a lot more oversteer even with the stock 7-10-5 diff oil setup. The on power push will be there on all buggy's and truggy's, it's all because of the compromise with the center diff. The harder you drive, the more it diff's out to the front wheels, the more of a push you have. Start with an oversteering setup and learn to drive it so hard that the truck or buggy starts pushing too much for your liking, then you will know that you are fast.
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Last edited by Slider30250; 07-26-2010 at 03:20 PM. Reason: added info
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Old 07-26-2010, 03:34 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Slider30250 View Post
If you already have the chassis then there really isn't a reason not to run it, just don't expect a dramatic increase in lap times. An increase in ride height plus a softer spring/shock oil setup would be better for the rough conditions. Reducing your droop setting 2-5mm front and back will help with the ruts




I stopped running the short ackerman plate, although it would increase steering just off center I would lose steering mid corner due to the extreme angle difference between the inside and outside tires.

The one thing that I did that I didn't get to test before getting my Mugen was the 4.4 (silver spring) up front and the 4.3 (purple spring) rear with 35 wt shock oil front and back. By squaring up the spring and shock oils generally you will dial in a lot more oversteer even with the stock 7-10-5 diff oil setup. The on power push will be there on all buggy's and truggy's, it's all because of the compromise with the center diff. The harder you drive, the more it diff's out to the front wheels, the more of a push you have. Start with an oversteering setup and learn to drive it so hard that the truck or buggy starts pushing too much for your liking, then you will know that you are fast.








well my front end is proberty about, 2 mm higher than the rear i have the rear ride height where the axles are pretty level. so there is only a little preload to get grip on the rear end. right now im using 40 f and 30 r.

im using the mike thrute setup, with the rear grey spring on the rear and the front its a black spring. il try out the silver spring in the front and purple on the rear. i mess with camber first.

i have changed to a thinner, sway bar in the rear that seem to help.

im running 7,10,5 in the diffs.
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Old 07-26-2010, 03:35 PM   #15
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My car drives awesome. I will be the first to say that upgrades are a waste of money, but with my m2c anti dive/ rear toe block, and bce chassis, it just drives so smooth and corners so well i love it! Of course i am getting better as a driver as well.

I have never driven another car and never intend to.


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