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Old 07-26-2010, 03:37 PM   #16
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My car drives awesome. I will be the first to say that upgrades are a waste of money, but with my m2c anti dive/ rear toe block, and bce chassis, it just drives so smooth and corners so well i love it! Of course i am getting better as a driver as well.

I have never driven another car and never intend to.


it glides/jumps like a gazelle!



i never tried anti dive but, i know changeing the anti squat to 2/3 helped a lot jumping wise it seem to jump more leveled on the 1.0 t .
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Old 07-26-2010, 03:54 PM   #17
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well my front end is proberty about, 2 mm higher than the rear i have the rear ride height where the axles are pretty level. so there is only a little preload to get grip on the rear end. right now im using 40 f and 30 r.

im using the mike thrute setup, with the rear grey spring on the rear and the front its a black spring. il try out the silver spring in the front and purple on the rear. i mess with camber first.

i have changed to a thinner, sway bar in the rear that seem to help.
The problem with the Truhe setup is that it's for a blue groove track which gives you alot of steering. If you are not driving on a blue groove track you will have a push with that setup. Try this....

Front,
Toe, 1.0 deg out
Camber 1.0 neg
Silver spring
35 wt shock oil
#54 piston
ride height 38 mm
2.3 mm sway bar
Shocks, middle hole on the arm #3 on the tower
Ackerman, long
Camber link #2
7k diff oil
Droop 95mm

Center diff 10k
Brakes, adjust to your liking for rotation into the corner

Rear,
Camber 2.0 deg neg
Purple spring
35 wt shock oil
#56 piston
ride height 40mm
2.3 mm sway bar
Shocks, middle hole on the arm #3 on the tower
Camber link 4/A
Droop 110mm

If you want me to send you my setup sheet just Pm me.
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Old 07-26-2010, 04:28 PM   #18
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The problem with the Truhe setup is that it's for a blue groove track which gives you alot of steering. If you are not driving on a blue groove track you will have a push with that setup. Try this....

Front,
Toe, 1.0 deg out
Camber 1.0 neg
Silver spring
35 wt shock oil
#54 piston
ride height 38 mm
2.3 mm sway bar
Shocks, middle hole on the arm #3 on the tower
Ackerman, long
Camber link #2
7k diff oil
Droop 95mm

Center diff 10k
Brakes, adjust to your liking for rotation into the corner

Rear,
Camber 2.0 deg neg
Purple spring
35 wt shock oil
#56 piston
ride height 40mm
2.3 mm sway bar
Shocks, middle hole on the arm #3 on the tower
Camber link 4/A
Droop 110mm

If you want me to send you my setup sheet just Pm me.






yea pm me with the setup thanks.

that setup is for the eight 1.0 t right ?

il keep the rear 2/3 toe in plate i like that.

now it says both swaybars are 2.3 ? is that the meduim size black sway bar ?

and whats the diff wt for the rear ?

Last edited by tc5 man; 07-26-2010 at 04:55 PM.
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Old 07-26-2010, 05:21 PM   #19
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yea pm me with the setup thanks.

that setup is for the eight 1.0 t right ?

il keep the rear 2/3 toe in plate i like that.

now it says both swaybars are 2.3 ? is that the meduim size black sway bar ?

and whats the diff wt for the rear ?
Sorry, 5k for the rear. The sways have the size laser etched on the front of them.
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Old 07-26-2010, 05:28 PM   #20
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Sorry, 5k for the rear. The sways have the size laser etched on the front of them.



i never saw the size of , the sway bar etched maybe losi forgot to put the size on it.

i did forgot to add that my track is dusty an dry.

i pm you back with my email address.

also im guessing that you, run the bump steering up to get more steering from the long ackerman rack ?

i was running my down because the short rack was too touchy.
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Old 07-26-2010, 05:34 PM   #21
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i never saw the size of , the sway bar etched maybe losi forgot to put the size on it.

i did forgot to add that my track is dusty an dry.

i pm you back with my email address.
The early sways didn't have the sizes etched on them. You can check the sizes with a metric caliper. With the right tires the setup will work well for you. Just remember, it's a "power on" setup, meaning that the truck will oversteer off throttle, you use power to catch the back end and get the truck to go where you want it to go. E-mail sent.
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Old 07-26-2010, 05:43 PM   #22
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The early sways didn't have the sizes etched on them. You can check the sizes with a metric caliper. With the right tires the setup will work well for you. Just remember, it's a "power on" setup, meaning that the truck will oversteer off throttle, you use power to catch the back end and get the truck to go where you want it to go. E-mail sent.



ok thanks yea if i have too, much oversteering than i tune it where its not so bad. im using cityblocks soft all around.

it should be better with this setup if not than il get, one pair of i-beams and use them in the rear.

thanks for the email.


im not a bad driver by the way, but i do get too exited when im trying to keep up with people lol.

yea the current setup i was using, the truck was just bounceing around too much.
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Old 07-26-2010, 05:49 PM   #23
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ok thanks yea if i have too, much oversteering than i tune it where its not so bad. im using cityblocks soft all around.

it should be better with this setup if not than il get, one pair of i-beams and use them in the rear.

thanks for the email.


im not a bad driver by the way, but i do get too exited when im trying to keep up with people lol.

yea the current setup i was using, the truck was just bounceing around too much.
I wouldn't use I beams in the rear, the truck won't be drivable. I use AKA Cityblocks in soft front and back with that setup. Just remember, if the truck is oversteering then gas it and the truck will push. You control the oversteer/understeer with the gas.
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Old 07-26-2010, 06:05 PM   #24
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I wouldn't use I beams in the rear, the truck won't be drivable. I use AKA Cityblocks in soft front and back with that setup. Just remember, if the truck is oversteering then gas it and the truck will push. You control the oversteer/understeer with the gas.




oh yea il stick with the city blocks than, yea i drive my truggy by letting off
going into the corner after... a jump and than steer and hit the thottle coming out of the turn. i dont really use brake inless its a real tight corner on after a straightaway.


its my first year race truggy so im learning.


yea the eight-t 1.0 doesnt like, the steer and blip the throttle menthod too much lol. it likes just rotateing and being smooth on the throttle.
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Old 07-26-2010, 06:07 PM   #25
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oh yea il stick with the city blocks than, yea i drive my truggy by letting off
going into the corner after... a jump and than steer and hit the thottle coming out of the turn. i dont really use brake inless its a real tight corner on after a straightaway.


its my first year race truggy so im learning.


yea the eight-t 1.0 doesnt like, the steer and blip the throttle menthod too much lol. it likes just rotateing and being smooth on the throttle.
Good luck to you, if you need more help with the setup just PM me. Ill do what I can.
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Old 07-26-2010, 06:09 PM   #26
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Good luck to you, if you need more help with the setup just PM me. Ill do what I can.

ok thanks.
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Old 07-26-2010, 06:12 PM   #27
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heck yeah. my friend has a traxxas stampede and me a rustler, and they handle completely different. mind you, they are also almost completely different vehicles. Mostly,it depends on 1. tire softness/hardness 2.motor size/power and 3. what you are driving on.
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