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Old 07-26-2010, 03:33 PM   #16
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Hi Cyclone. Sorry to hear about your misfortune; just be glad it wasn't a $400 mill that you toasted.

Be sure to take the whole car apart as well as the engine and figure out what can be salvaged and what can't. The engine is likely toast and in need of complete replacement, but at the very least the old one can make for an interesting conversation starter, or dining room centerpiece as a candle-holder

Be sure to take some pics of the car & engine; aside from sheer curiosity, perhaps we can help determine what other things might need replacing.
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Old 07-26-2010, 03:56 PM   #17
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What about the finger over the exhaust trick on shutting it down or a run away?
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Old 07-26-2010, 04:03 PM   #18
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ok you take the filter off. YA you can. Start your car and put your finger over the hole that the air fitler tube covers. the engine needs air to run and that gives it no air!
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Old 07-27-2010, 01:47 AM   #19
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Hello ,

Thanks for all the answers and help considering my problem, i will TRY to put up some pics if my PC decides to detect any usb ports ( nothing works in my house xD ) anyway, il try to describe it more: center diff is done, the shaf going from center to front diff is also done and thats all ( execpt the motor .... ) but can i keep my exhaust pipe? Or do i have to change it also ? ( it doesnt look damaged )
Considering a new motor, if i buy a .21 or a .15 do i need to change any gearing ?
Btw, im sorry for any noobie questions but nitro aint my piece of cake, i got a electric kit but i just wanted to try out nitro for fun
Anyway, Thank you in advance
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Old 07-27-2010, 01:47 AM   #20
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Hello ,

Thanks for all the answers and help considering my problem, i will TRY to put up some pics if my PC decides to detect any usb ports ( nothing works in my house xD ) anyway, il try to describe it more: center diff is done, the shaf going from center to front diff is also done and thats all ( execpt the motor .... ) but can i keep my exhaust pipe? Or do i have to change it also ? ( it doesnt look damaged )
Considering a new motor, if i buy a .21 or a .15 do i need to change any gearing ?
Also, what are the conseqences of not breaking in ?
Btw, im sorry for any noobie questions but nitro aint my piece of cake, i got a electric kit but i just wanted to try out nitro for fun
Anyway, Thank you in advance
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Old 07-27-2010, 05:53 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyclone speed View Post
Hello ,

Thanks for all the answers and help considering my problem, i will TRY to put up some pics if my PC decides to detect any usb ports ( nothing works in my house xD ) anyway, il try to describe it more: center diff is done, the shaf going from center to front diff is also done and thats all ( execpt the motor .... ) but can i keep my exhaust pipe? Or do i have to change it also ? ( it doesnt look damaged )
Considering a new motor, if i buy a .21 or a .15 do i need to change any gearing ?
Also, what are the conseqences of not breaking in ?
Btw, im sorry for any noobie questions but nitro aint my piece of cake, i got a electric kit but i just wanted to try out nitro for fun
Anyway, Thank you in advance
if you buy a .21 you will need a new exhaust. if you buy a .12 to .18 you can use yours. If you dont break your motor in it will wear out quicker, quicker than it should.....the break in is heat cycling the parts in the motor to kinda seat the piston and sleeve ....but not as quick as a runaway death rev........also I am not sure if you can put the .21 in a 1:10 scale......I think id stick with the .18.....although the larger motors are easier to tune and less temperamental, if you ever move up in scale.
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Old 07-27-2010, 08:04 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BAUSTIN View Post
if you buy a .21 you will need a new exhaust. if you buy a .12 to .18 you can use yours. If you dont break your motor in it will wear out quicker, quicker than it should.....the break in is heat cycling the parts in the motor to kinda seat the piston and sleeve ....but not as quick as a runaway death rev........also I am not sure if you can put the .21 in a 1:10 scale......I think id stick with the .18.....although the larger motors are easier to tune and less temperamental, if you ever move up in scale.
Ok thank you, i am going to stick to a .18 but i just wanted to know what would i have to change if i get a more powerfull motor ( ima try to get used to petrol then i might get a bigger motor xD )
So what your saying is that if i dont break in my motor, its NOT going to loose power or be less performing , its only going to last alot less longer ?
Thank you
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Old 07-27-2010, 10:40 AM   #23
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Also, when you break in an engine you run it real rich, which will do two things give good lubrication when the piston/sleeve is the tightest.......but also there is a possibility of there being just a flake or something of aluminum in the motor for when it was made the extra fuel will help "wash" out any particles.....if you go straight to a race or RTR tune and you have something like this in your motor it could damage it immediately..........the best bet is to break/run-in the engine..........there are a ton of methods out there......
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Old 07-27-2010, 10:54 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BAUSTIN View Post
Also, when you break in an engine you run it real rich, which will do two things give good lubrication when the piston/sleeve is the tightest.......but also there is a possibility of there being just a flake or something of aluminum in the motor for when it was made the extra fuel will help "wash" out any particles.....if you go straight to a race or RTR tune and you have something like this in your motor it could damage it immediately..........the best bet is to break/run-in the engine..........there are a ton of methods out there......
thanks, i think i will buy a new GXR18 and do another break in .... But do you know wha glow plug was used in the gxr18 ? Was it a no1/2/3/4/5/6/7/8/9 lol sorry
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Old 07-27-2010, 11:56 AM   #25
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im not shure which plug is best for your car.....weather is a factor in choosing from a hot to cold plug......some motors just like a certain plug type or temp......the numbers listed 1/2/3...etc represent different temperature plugs....the motor is a standard so you will want some type of standard plug.....your manual should sugest one or do a search on here or the net for info on your specific car......

if you look at this page....at the bottom it lists what products people bought that bought your motor, there is a os #8(medium) and a os A3(hot)...listed, there is a good chance these would work fine.......

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ne-w-Pullstart
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