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Old 07-22-2010, 08:48 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Cory Kerber View Post
If you're running dual 7955's you can run unregulated lipo. Unless you're running the FASST radio system.
I'm actually getting the hobbico cs-170. I think it's a rebaged hitech 7955 but I'm not positive. But my other servo is an ace ds1313. I'm not sure if you can run 7.4 with the ace or not, or the hobbico for that matter.
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Old 07-22-2010, 08:52 PM   #17
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I'm actually getting the hobbico cs-170. I think it's a rebaged hitech 7955 but I'm not positive. But my other servo is an ace ds1313. I'm not sure if you can run 7.4 with the ace or not, or the hobbico for that matter.
The hobbico cs170's you CAN run unregulated. I would still get a regulator just incase your other servo can't. And plus they will be super fast I didn't like how fast they were unregulated lol.
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Old 07-22-2010, 09:01 PM   #18
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Yeah. What Rx are you running???

I'd try really hard to lose the regulator. Regs tend to glitch and fail in the most important main of your season. Even if it means selling your radio and switching to Airtronics M11x, Spectrum Dx3r, KO, or Hitec.

If you won't switch radios and can't run 8.4v, then look at Lifepo packs, they have a lower voltage output so you won't need a reg with those hopefully. I'd rather go back to Nihm than run a reg again.

Cool thing about lipos is that you can see each cells voltage while charging. You can charge them repeatedly without cycleing the pack. And they rarely die without plenty of warning. I've had Nihms and Nicad packs just lose power in the middle of a race for no reason. No warning at all. never had that problem with Lipo.

You won't need the Lipo sack either.
Check out Hobbycity.com for lipo Rx packs from Zippy or Turnigy. Grab one of the Turnigy chargers as well and save yourself some money.
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Old 07-22-2010, 09:16 PM   #19
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Yeah. What Rx are you running???

I'd try really hard to lose the regulator. Regs tend to glitch and fail in the most important main of your season. Even if it means selling your radio and switching to Airtronics M11x, Spectrum Dx3r, KO, or Hitec.

If you won't switch radios and can't run 8.4v, then look at Lifepo packs, they have a lower voltage output so you won't need a reg with those hopefully. I'd rather go back to Nihm than run a reg again.

Cool thing about lipos is that you can see each cells voltage while charging. You can charge them repeatedly without cycleing the pack. And they rarely die without plenty of warning. I've had Nihms and Nicad packs just lose power in the middle of a race for no reason. No warning at all. never had that problem with Lipo.

You won't need the Lipo sack either.
Check out Hobbycity.com for lipo Rx packs from Zippy or Turnigy. Grab one of the Turnigy chargers as well and save yourself some money.
I have the DS3x controller, but I'm using the back up receiver that came with it. The antenna on the better receiver broke right at the case and I haven't tried to fix it yet. I really don't think I can run lipo without a regulator with that ACE servo though. If someone could let me know about that, it might help me out some.
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Old 07-22-2010, 09:22 PM   #20
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The 170 is a rebadged 5955. The spektrum system can handle lipo. However, the ace servo cannot.
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Old 07-22-2010, 10:18 PM   #21
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I said screw it and stayed with nimh. I ordered a 2500nimh. That should get me through long races. i just couldn't see spending another 120$ to go lipo, when I haven't really given a good nimh a try yet. If I don't make it throught the race next weekned, I'll make the switch then.
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Old 07-23-2010, 03:28 AM   #22
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No need to switch unless you really have the dough and just do not care.

I run a 1600 nimh stickman to be exact and have had no problems running a 45 min main. I would say I could have gone 60 min as there was a good amount of juice left after that long main.
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Old 07-23-2010, 04:33 AM   #23
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Last year I timed mine. My 1400mah Nimh lasted 2 hours before it got down to 5.7 volts
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Old 07-23-2010, 06:03 AM   #24
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Lipomisman expensive way to go but it's worth it IMO. If you don't want to spend the extra $$ then stick with the nimh there's nothing wrong with it. I switched to lipo last year about august but I went all hv servos too. It's great no regulator and the pack lasts all day. I still put in a new pack before the main some old habits die hard.
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Old 07-23-2010, 08:46 AM   #25
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LIFE batts all the way. Got the hyperions "altered the tap plug and rec adapter"a #6 based charger can be had for $30 @12V-$45-$50 @12-120v 6.6 @ the full capacity. Can charge at 4s like 10-15min full recharge.
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Old 07-23-2010, 12:01 PM   #26
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I don't get it. You can rune a looong time with NiMh.
I have the Losi 1400 mAh and I get two hours+ out of it, granted i don't run races that long but I run on a local track and a hump will get me through a whole day. We drive some, talk some and fix a broken car or two, drive some more, eat and so on. A 5 hour day at the track is no problem for the 1400 mAh.
A 45 min main will use a lot more then my average 45 min drive but still....
I don't see a 1400-2000 mAh hump going out in 45 minutes... Unless it's worn out or broken.
You will be fine with the 2500 mAh you bought!
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Old 07-23-2010, 01:01 PM   #27
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I don't get it. You can rune a looong time with NiMh.
I have the Losi 1400 mAh and I get two hours+ out of it, granted i don't run races that long but I run on a local track and a hump will get me through a whole day. We drive some, talk some and fix a broken car or two, drive some more, eat and so on. A 5 hour day at the track is no problem for the 1400 mAh.
A 45 min main will use a lot more then my average 45 min drive but still....
I don't see a 1400-2000 mAh hump going out in 45 minutes... Unless it's worn out or broken.
You will be fine with the 2500 mAh you bought!
I'm trusting you and your 2 hour runtimes. More then likely i won't make the A main anyway and will only need a 30 minute run. If my fully charged battery dies though before my race is over, I'll be sure and kick you car if i'm ever marshelling a race your in.

I just seen that your in Sweeden, so it looks my attempt at revenge would be cost me a fortune.
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Old 07-23-2010, 01:06 PM   #28
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I'm trusting you and your 2 hour runtimes. More then likely i won't make the A main anyway and will only need a 30 minute run. If my fully charged battery dies though before my race is over, I'll be sure and kick you car if i'm ever marshelling a race your in.

I just seen that your in Sweeden, so it looks my attempt at revenge would be cost me a fortune.
Good luck in reaching the long main!
You kicking my car won't happen for a few reasons...
1. I don't live near you (phew)
2. I don't race
3. I don't flip my car over.... EVER. So understandable I don't need you to come near me

On a more serious note, how many tanks do you use up in a long 45 min main?
That would be a good measure of how long a rx batt lasts.
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Old 07-23-2010, 01:07 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bevofrancis View Post
I'm trusting you and your 2 hour runtimes. More then likely i won't make the A main anyway and will only need a 30 minute run. If my fully charged battery dies though before my race is over, I'll be sure and kick you car if i'm ever marshelling a race your in.

I just seen that your in Sweeden, so it looks my attempt at revenge would be cost me a fortune.
Just charge your pack before the main. Even though you dont have to its a good habit to get into. Just like Frank said old habits die hard.

I always charge before the main always. I dont spend countless hours cleaning and wrenching for nothing just to get a DNF because of a battery that could have been charged.

I would recommend going 2 hours before your next charge. The guys that were explaining this were probably testing.
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