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Old 07-16-2010, 01:30 PM   #16
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Hotbodies and who ever said u need to spend $800 to make it fast must not be able to drive a box stock d8 buggy in the hands of Garrett Mckamie Tqued and his motor flamed out in the main but he was over half a track ahead 2nd before that happened and it was a field fool of fast guys and i drive the D8t truggy bone stock and the trucks bad a$$. and the cars dont get no more slop than the losi 2.0 i had.
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Old 07-16-2010, 01:32 PM   #17
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The choice is really up to you. Asking such a question on a public forum will get you several different answers and opinions.
While the RC8 and D8 thread can be useful, try reading them a bit and make a gut decision. The D8 is alot cheaper and I like mine. They do wear a bit faster than most others but parts are cheap to buy. I have no first hand knowledge of the RC8. I have heard great things and seen some people really suffer from driving one but you have to work to get any car setup for your driving style.
Alot of good cars on the market right now and maybe you need to take a look at them all first.
Either way, with a hobby shop that carries the parts, you're in good shape.

How on this earth, do you spend $800 on a D8 ? Was it decked out in diamonds and gold. I WOULDN'T SPEND $800 ON A CAR. WILL PEOPLE EVER LEARN THAT THE CAR DOESN'T MAKE YOU FASTER, THE DRIVING DOES.
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Old 07-16-2010, 01:39 PM   #18
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Get the D8 and you will be very happy you did. The only must haves are the Alumnium Servo Horn and for Rough Tracks, The 112mm Shocks and Tall Tower. Trust me, Some locals here are getting very frustrated at the RC8B. I let a handfull of them drive my car, They were .5 Sec. a lap faster and much more consistant lap to lap.
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Old 07-16-2010, 01:53 PM   #19
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Greg how can you say "the car does not make you faster"....because different cars will make anyone faster or slower but once you find "THE" car that fits your driving you will be faster
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Old 07-16-2010, 02:00 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg B View Post
The choice is really up to you. Asking such a question on a public forum will get you several different answers and opinions.
While the RC8 and D8 thread can be useful, try reading them a bit and make a gut decision. The D8 is alot cheaper and I like mine. They do wear a bit faster than most others but parts are cheap to buy. I have no first hand knowledge of the RC8. I have heard great things and seen some people really suffer from driving one but you have to work to get any car setup for your driving style.
Alot of good cars on the market right now and maybe you need to take a look at them all first.
Either way, with a hobby shop that carries the parts, you're in good shape.

How on this earth, do you spend $800 on a D8 ? Was it decked out in diamonds and gold. I WOULDN'T SPEND $800 ON A CAR. WILL PEOPLE EVER LEARN THAT THE CAR DOESN'T MAKE YOU FASTER, THE DRIVING DOES.
Some of us just love big bling. Personally I like all the fancy option parts. When I switched to the 2.0t I had a ton of parts that went on the truck before it ever hit the track. Are they necessary? 80% of them are not. But I'm the guy who just likes to have an all option truggy and buggy but that's just me.
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Old 07-16-2010, 02:20 PM   #21
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You should buy 2 D8's. Nothing better than havin two buggys incase one breaks!
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Old 07-16-2010, 05:52 PM   #22
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Default D8 D8 D8 D8

I've driven a few D8 buggies. I own a D8T truggy. I used to own a Rc8.

Hands down get the D8. The D8 has better rotation and stability. The only mods it needs are tuning options like stiffer springs for the rear, softer kyosho front sway bars, kyosho 1.2x8 angle drilled taper pistons etc. Very easy to drive.

The stock shocks and towers work best on the d8 IMO. I don't like the long shock mods.


The Rc8 is more fragile, harder to work on, and has it's weight distibuted too far rear. Or at least that's how it feels. It wears too quick, plastic and metal. The RC8 would be a good buy for $320, but unfortunately it's priced into Mugen territory. The fast guys that hit their lines in every corner perfectly will be fast with an Rc8. It's a smooth car that jumps well.


I strongly feel that the D8 will get you into the winners circle before the Rc8.

If the Rc8 was $320 like the D8, I'd still get the D8. If the D8 was priced like the Rc8, I'd pony all the way up and get a Mugen or Xray.
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Old 07-16-2010, 06:01 PM   #23
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I've driven a few D8 buggies. I own a D8T truggy. I used to own a Rc8.

Hands down get the D8. The D8 has better rotation and stability. The only mods it needs are tuning options like stiffer springs for the rear, softer kyosho front sway bars, kyosho 1.2x8 angle drilled taper pistons etc. Very easy to drive.

The stock shocks and towers work best on the d8 IMO. I don't like the long shock mods.


The Rc8 is more fragile, harder to work on, and has it's weight distibuted too far rear. Or at least that's how it feels. It wears too quick, plastic and metal. The RC8 would be a good buy for $320, but unfortunately it's priced into Mugen territory. The fast guys that hit their lines in every corner perfectly will be fast with an Rc8. It's a smooth car that jumps well.


I strongly feel that the D8 will get you into the winners circle before the Rc8.

If the Rc8 was $320 like the D8, I'd still get the D8. If the D8 was priced like the Rc8, I'd pony all the way up and get a Mugen or Xray.





ive seen guys run the rc8 truggys, and i dint see any of them break.
and these arent the best drivers , but yea from racers that i know i seen

the rc8 buggys break too much.
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Old 07-16-2010, 06:45 PM   #24
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a-main has the D8 buggy for 279.00...so even better yet
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Old 07-16-2010, 06:54 PM   #25
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a-main has the D8 buggy for 279.00...so even better yet
that price is almost insane.

you could buy 2 of those for the price of a mugen/losi/xray.

And 3 for the price of a ky-oh-no
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Old 07-16-2010, 06:56 PM   #26
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that price is almost insane.

you could buy 2 of those for the price of a mugen/losi/xray.

And 3 for the price of a ky-oh-no


dreux how do you get , what car you run and what track you race at on your profile page ? i cant figure it out
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Old 07-16-2010, 08:45 PM   #27
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I have owned both and now drive a HB D8, What I can say, both cars have a poor drivetrains "wear", But the drivetrain parts are the cheapest to replace on the HB D8. Out of the box with a different clutch the D8 is very easy to drive fast, it has tons of forward bite. It really depends on the support you get from your LHS.
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Old 07-17-2010, 07:19 AM   #28
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I've run a buddy's RC8B this year, and after that I bought a D8 because I had a D8T last season and knew what I was in for - in my opinion, the D8 is much easier to work on and is much easier to clean as well. Toss in the fact that you can get one for $290 and I'd call that a deal.

As far as performance, personally I didn't notice a whole lot of difference between the two other than the D8 could definitely use the longer rear shocks on my local track - the RC8B did have a little more down travel which helped in the bumpy sections but as far as in-air attitude and overall handling, they are about even to me.
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Old 07-17-2010, 08:58 AM   #29
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Just pick up a D8, You will be glad you did!
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Old 07-17-2010, 10:59 PM   #30
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The 8b is a great race platform, but it is a very adjustable, very sensitive platform that needs to have someone that knows what they are doing with tuning it in order to get it's potential.

I race one, and though I am week at driving it, I am decent at tuning it and get asked by the local AE Team Drivers as to what I am trying.

The "B" car can be made to run with anything out there, and the only car that is similar as far as adjustability would be the Inferno. These two cars are more tuned by use of geometry, where cars like the Losi are more tuned with the shocks.

That being said, IMO, the B car can be adjusted to be just as good or better as any car on a smooth high bite track or a rough loose track.

One plus is that it comes with just about everything you need to be competetive in the box, short of the Silver rear springs. Some would argue that you need the white tapered pistons, but you can drill out the included black ones with 10 x 1.1mm holes and get near identical results. The only thing you "need" is some diff fluid and the FT rear hubs since they have the "C" hole in them.
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