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Old 07-11-2010, 07:50 PM   #31
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Default Great info guys.....

If the shoes are worn and the springs are weakened the engine will spin just enough at idle to engage them and stop the engine cause it's not going fast enough to stay running. Put new shoes and 1.0 springs on it.

The BF likes to be close to flush on the top end, from just poking out to just a hair under flush. The bottom end. I have no idea, I never check to where I put it. Get the top right and adjust the bottom to keep a good idle. the idle adjustment can get off if you raise it to compensate for a rich low end. So try lowering it a tad and leaning out the bottom, you may just be too rich on the bottom, it happens to us all. that can cause it to gurgle on acceleration and die when ideling. When in doubt richen the top and lean the bottom. The bottom needle is sensitive so don't turn it as much as the top. It's a fine line to set the bottom end....You want a steady idle without it racing or dying. If it races you are too lean, if it seems fine then dies after 20 seconds, lower the idle...
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Old 07-11-2010, 08:22 PM   #32
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If the shoes are worn and the springs are weakened the engine will spin just enough at idle to engage them and stop the engine cause it's not going fast enough to stay running. Put new shoes and 1.0 springs on it.

The BF likes to be close to flush on the top end, from just poking out to just a hair under flush. The bottom end. I have no idea, I never check to where I put it. Get the top right and adjust the bottom to keep a good idle. the idle adjustment can get off if you raise it to compensate for a rich low end. So try lowering it a tad and leaning out the bottom, you may just be too rich on the bottom, it happens to us all. that can cause it to gurgle on acceleration and die when ideling. When in doubt richen the top and lean the bottom. The bottom needle is sensitive so don't turn it as much as the top. It's a fine line to set the bottom end....You want a steady idle without it racing or dying. If it races you are too lean, if it seems fine then dies after 20 seconds, lower the idle...



well i have a rb s5 engine that is, still pretty new and my idle gap is a little open than when the engine, heats up as you know it will open more .

but if i keep on feathering the throttle, and than let it idle and it will start to load up a little and it will shut off... and i leaned the low end enough already and the main needle to me, seems fine i have it where the lines are even in the main needle.


so maybe i need to make the idle a tad higher ? theres plently of smoke coming from my pipe still.
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Old 07-11-2010, 08:52 PM   #33
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anybody ?
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Old 07-12-2010, 12:52 AM   #34
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Default Could be...

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well i have a rb s5 engine that is, still pretty new and my idle gap is a little open than when the engine, heats up as you know it will open more .

but if i keep on feathering the throttle, and than let it idle and it will start to load up a little and it will shut off... and i leaned the low end enough already and the main needle to me, seems fine i have it where the lines are even in the main needle.


so maybe i need to make the idle a tad higher ? theres plently of smoke coming from my pipe still.
Sure. It could be a low idle. Make that adjustment when the engine is running. Turn the idle in just until You can hear the idle go up a bit, then stop. If the engine stays running and idles for 20 seconds without dying then your good. If it still dies then lean the bottom a bit more and drop the idle back down where it was...Make sure your engine is up to temp first....Then drive it around the track and if you come in and it the idle is abnormally high even after it sets there for 20 seconds you know the bottom end needs to be a bit richer....

The S5 is a good engine. I had one before. Don't be afraid to run the bottom a bit leaner than usual. It could use the low end snap off the line, just don't starve it on the top end. After you get the bottom end set, try leaning the top from flush just until it goes full speed. No more....
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Old 07-12-2010, 08:27 AM   #35
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Sure. It could be a low idle. Make that adjustment when the engine is running. Turn the idle in just until You can hear the idle go up a bit, then stop. If the engine stays running and idles for 20 seconds without dying then your good. If it still dies then lean the bottom a bit more and drop the idle back down where it was...Make sure your engine is up to temp first....Then drive it around the track and if you come in and it the idle is abnormally high even after it sets there for 20 seconds you know the bottom end needs to be a bit richer....

The S5 is a good engine. I had one before. Don't be afraid to run the bottom a bit leaner than usual. It could use the low end snap off the line, just don't starve it on the top end. After you get the bottom end set, try leaning the top from flush just until it goes full speed. No more....





i want to leave the main needle, were its at the straight away at my isnt real long and it seems to reach, the top end limit before i go into the corner.

yea il try to make the idle a bit higher , it does make a four stroke rumble sound when it comes back to idle.

i not a master tuner by the way i somehow got it to just run lol, but this need it to stay running .


this engine already has plently of top end .
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Old 07-12-2010, 03:25 PM   #36
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I did find a Mc59 plug that I had from my Mach427 motor. Not exactly 100% sure if the plug works perfectly, but it does glow when on the igniter. It seems to want to start better than with the OD 99 plug. But still nothing.

As far as my fuel, well thats still in question. Im using Powermaster 30%. I bought it from the track owner, but not sure at all how long it has sat in storage etc. But note I did use this same fuel 2 weeks ago and ran fine. Another guy at the track emptied out my fuel and put his sidewinder fuel in and it still didn't really want to run.

Right now i'm awaiting on a new plug to come (OD purple sport) and I have all settings on motor back to factory setting. But any other suggestions?

Oh and as far as clutch springs, well they are pretty much new. I installed them new and only have 1 1/2 races on them (1/2 race is due to blown servo). But how long should the springs last???? I would guess more than 2 races.....
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Old 07-12-2010, 03:52 PM   #37
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Default Sure do

The springs should last about 6 or 7 races. As long as the clutch....
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Old 07-12-2010, 04:02 PM   #38
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yea, so my springs should be good, right?

Also, you say clutch, you mean clutch shoes or the bell?
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Old 07-12-2010, 04:35 PM   #39
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I did find a Mc59 plug that I had from my Mach427 motor. Not exactly 100% sure if the plug works perfectly, but it does glow when on the igniter. It seems to want to start better than with the OD 99 plug. But still nothing.

As far as my fuel, well thats still in question. Im using Powermaster 30%. I bought it from the track owner, but not sure at all how long it has sat in storage etc. But note I did use this same fuel 2 weeks ago and ran fine. Another guy at the track emptied out my fuel and put his sidewinder fuel in and it still didn't really want to run.

Right now i'm awaiting on a new plug to come (OD purple sport) and I have all settings on motor back to factory setting. But any other suggestions?

Oh and as far as clutch springs, well they are pretty much new. I installed them new and only have 1 1/2 races on them (1/2 race is due to blown servo). But how long should the springs last???? I would guess more than 2 races.....




use the o donnell #100 meduim plug, thats what im using and the engine starts right up and makes a good idle.

as for the clutch bells i think, there good as long as there is no groves inside the clutch bell.
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Old 07-12-2010, 05:19 PM   #40
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yea, so my springs should be good, right?

Also, you say clutch, you mean clutch shoes or the bell?
The shoes....
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Old 07-12-2010, 05:22 PM   #41
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then whats the difference in the OD purple sport plug and the OD 100 plug??

aint they both medium?? im confused
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Old 07-12-2010, 05:26 PM   #42
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then whats the difference in the OD purple sport plug and the OD 100 plug??

aint they both medium?? im confused
Your engine should run no matter what plug you have in it. So if it's still having issues there is something wrong.
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Old 07-12-2010, 05:29 PM   #43
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then whats the difference in the OD purple sport plug and the OD 100 plug??

aint they both medium?? im confused


the #100 o donnell plugs are for .21 t .50 engines, and the purple sport are designed for 1/10 engines like .12 and .15 and .18.
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Old 07-12-2010, 05:45 PM   #44
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You say after the race it stalled . Was the engine possibly ran hot ? Also will it still run until you take igniter off ?
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Old 07-12-2010, 06:50 PM   #45
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its like it wants to try to run with the igniter on. When I put in the mc59 plug it did manage to run about 3 seconds after igniter was remover with that plug.

And yes it stalled after my last race. run hot? we kept pretty good eye on temps, I dont think it got over 280*-290*, but thats just a ball park.
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