Removing Motor mounts?
06-28-2010, 06:48 PM
#16
Success, I got them all out. Took my trusty hammer and wacked the crap out of the side of the motor mount. Flipped it over stuck my allen in there and gave it it a nice push and pop they both came loose. I have a question what part of the stainless will strip out. It cant be the threads,as I have never stripped threads out on one. Are you talking about the hex part ?
06-28-2010, 06:51 PM
#17
Success, I got them all out. Took my trusty hammer and wacked the crap out of the side of the motor mount. Flipped it over stuck my allen in there and gave it it a nice push and pop they both came loose. I have a question what part of the stainless will strip out. It cant be the threads,as I have never stripped threads out on one. Are you talking about the hex part ?
06-28-2010, 07:19 PM
#18
Success, I got them all out. Took my trusty hammer and wacked the crap out of the side of the motor mount. Flipped it over stuck my allen in there and gave it it a nice push and pop they both came loose. I have a question what part of the stainless will strip out. It cant be the threads,as I have never stripped threads out on one. Are you talking about the hex part ?
stainless screws are a bad idea. they are soft and the head will strip out. Do not use locktite and instead treat the threads with boiled linseed oil.
if you find yourself with stuck screws you can either heat the screw direct with a soldering iron or drill the head off(my favorite way).
06-28-2010, 07:39 PM
#20
I have had stainless screws come out of plastic with no threads left on them.
06-28-2010, 07:52 PM
#21
stainless screws are a bad idea. they are soft and the head will strip out. Do not use locktite and instead treat the threads with boiled linseed oil.
if you find yourself with stuck screws you can either heat the screw direct with a soldering iron or drill the head off(my favorite way).
if you find yourself with stuck screws you can either heat the screw direct with a soldering iron or drill the head off(my favorite way).
Didn't know that worked as threadlock! Where do u get it? Sounds like a cake ingredient or something. Deos it have to be hot, or do you just boil it and bottle it up to use later?
06-28-2010, 08:22 PM
#22
alot of the carbon deposits that make carbon steel hard is removed when stainless is made. It's not even magnetic. You will never see stainless used where stregth is needed. There are different grades of carbon and what tony has is the best as far as carbon goes. I will take carbon over titanium. Titanium will snap, stainless will bend.
hell, if they had aluminum screws i would take them over stainless
hell, if they had aluminum screws i would take them over stainless
06-28-2010, 08:32 PM
#23
06-28-2010, 08:44 PM
#24
alot of the carbon deposits that make carbon steel hard is removed when stainless is made. It's not even magnetic. You will never see stainless used where stregth is needed. There are different grades of carbon and what tony has is the best as far as carbon goes. I will take carbon over titanium. Titanium will snap, stainless will bend.
hell, if they had aluminum screws i would take them over stainless
hell, if they had aluminum screws i would take them over stainless
Totally agree though. Just get screwed by Tony's Screws and be done with it. You'll be happy you did.
06-29-2010, 05:25 AM
#25
It is available wherever you find paint. Right next to the thinners and solvents. It comes prebolied. Linseed oil is an old bike wheelbuilders trick on spokes and nipples. The stuff never dries hard just gets gummy. Enough to provide a little locktite/antisieze benefit. I use it on almost all the steel/aluminum thread junctions with my car. It takes days to weeks to dry though so doesn't give immediate benefit like normal locktite does.
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