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Old 06-28-2010, 07:05 AM   #1
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Default Starter box help

Hello.

I've just gotten started into the nitro thing. I built a new Hyper 10sc Nitro and I also picked up a used Mugen MBX5T which came with this 1/8th scale starter box.

The starter box is wrecked. The motor must be shot because even with 2 new 7.4 lipos hooked to it, the motor stops as soon as the flywheel of the truck touches it. I can even stop it with my finger.

So, I have a few questions.

1) Can I get a replacement motor for this starter? I searched online and didn't find anything.

2) If no on #1, can someone suggest a good, inexpensive starter box that will work for my 1/10th scale and my 1/8th scale trucks?

thanks!
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Old 06-28-2010, 07:29 AM   #2
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Hello.

I've just gotten started into the nitro thing. I built a new Hyper 10sc Nitro and I also picked up a used Mugen MBX5T which came with this 1/8th scale starter box.

The starter box is wrecked. The motor must be shot because even with 2 new 7.4 lipos hooked to it, the motor stops as soon as the flywheel of the truck touches it. I can even stop it with my finger.

So, I have a few questions.

1) Can I get a replacement motor for this starter? I searched online and didn't find anything.

2) If no on #1, can someone suggest a good, inexpensive starter box that will work for my 1/10th scale and my 1/8th scale trucks?

thanks!
You should be able to find a replacement motor that box has strange tabs make sure the car is up on top of the tab and not sitting flat on the chrome top it may just be an alingment issue. I have seen that happen to this box before. Look at the front tab and sit the car up on the little shelf that's 1/2 way up on the tab.
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Old 06-28-2010, 07:34 AM   #3
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You should be able to find a replacement motor that box has strange tabs make sure the car is up on top of the tab and not sitting flat on the chrome top it may just be an alingment issue. I have seen that happen to this box before. Look at the front tab and sit the car up on the little shelf that's 1/2 way up on the tab.

If I put the truck up on the tabs, then the flywheel doesn't sit low enough for the starter box wheel to hit. I have to have it flat on the top.

Maybe I should have just gotten a motor with a pull start
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Old 06-28-2010, 07:47 AM   #4
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If I put the truck up on the tabs, then the flywheel doesn't sit low enough for the starter box wheel to hit. I have to have it flat on the top.

Maybe I should have just gotten a motor with a pull start
I wouldnt ness around with pull start motors. By the end of the day you fingers are gonna have blisters.

I think this the motor for the starter box.

http://www.rcboca.com/12-volt-motor-...arter-box.html
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Old 06-28-2010, 07:53 AM   #5
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Yea, that looks like the fella, thanks!

I was able to find it on amainhobbies website in stock. May as well get a new wheel for it too.

I should be able to attach two 7.4 3500mAh lipo's to this motor without issue right?
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Old 06-28-2010, 08:15 AM   #6
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Yea, that looks like the fella, thanks!

I was able to find it on amainhobbies website in stock. May as well get a new wheel for it too.

I should be able to attach two 7.4 3500mAh lipo's to this motor without issue right?
Ya those should work fine or just get a 4s thwy are cheap enough now.
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Old 06-28-2010, 08:45 AM   #7
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Thanks for the help all.

A new motor and wheel are much cheaper than a whole new unit
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Old 06-28-2010, 09:57 AM   #8
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Are you POSITIVE the motor is the issue? An issue with wiring will cause that... and the on-off switch on that box is the first place I would look. (I mean the one on the side of the box... although the actual switch that the lid presses can give you a headache too... BTDT)

(I have this box and had a similar symptom... improving the wire connections made a HUGE difference.)

And yes, that box will work fine with Lipos. My bud has one with a single 4s LiPo... shows about 16v fully charged, and I think that box would start a top fuel dragster!
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Old 06-28-2010, 10:33 AM   #9
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Thanks Brad.

Yes the wiring is aweful. Here are some pics I snapped at lunch today. I'll re wire it first and see how that effects it.

Thanks
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Starter box help-2010-06-28-12.01.08.jpg   Starter box help-2010-06-28-12.01.21.jpg   Starter box help-2010-06-28-12.01.39.jpg  
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Old 06-28-2010, 10:55 AM   #10
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I agree the wiring is trashed.. You will need to get that all cleaned up.. But if fixing the wiring doesn't fix the problem, then before changin the motor, try to borrow, or test a 12v gell cell battery.. I've never ever had a motor my box wouldn't start, and I've used it for 3 years, and bought it used.. I can't imagine the motor is bad..

The fix for the starte wheel not hitting the flywheel while on the pegs is a new starter wheel.. They do get worn down over time, and can cause them to not touch anymore.
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Old 06-28-2010, 10:58 AM   #11
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I agree the wiring is trashed.. You will need to get that all cleaned up.. But if fixing the wiring doesn't fix the problem, then before changin the motor, try to borrow, or test a 12v gell cell battery.. I've never ever had a motor my box wouldn't start, and I've used it for 3 years, and bought it used.. I can't imagine the motor is bad..

The fix for the starte wheel not hitting the flywheel while on the pegs is a new starter wheel.. They do get worn down over time, and can cause them to not touch anymore.
Okay.. So, since I've never had anything nitro before, I feel like a complete idiot. So if the wheel is worn down, should the new wheel reach the flywheel with the chassis elevated off the top plate of the starter box, resting on top the pegs or should the chassis be flat on the top of the starter box?

I do think the wheel is worn considerably.
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Old 06-29-2010, 06:02 AM   #12
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Okay.. So, since I've never had anything nitro before, I feel like a complete idiot. So if the wheel is worn down, should the new wheel reach the flywheel with the chassis elevated off the top plate of the starter box, resting on top the pegs or should the chassis be flat on the top of the starter box?

I do think the wheel is worn considerably.

It should reach when on the flat parts of the pegs, when you push down on it. (It doesn't make contact until you push down of course!)

I notice you're from Manitowoc... I've actually been there a few times- once for a friend's sister's wedding, and a couple of times when I was going to Oshkosh for the EAA fly-in. I remember the steakhouse that we went to had a Texas flag... displayed upside down. I pointed it out to the waitress, but she just looked at me funny- I wonder if they ever fixed that?
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Old 06-29-2010, 06:10 AM   #13
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If the restaurant was in Oshkosh I wouldn't be surprised

It's prolly still upside down. Always nice to hear from people familiar with Manitowoc

Thanks for the help with this starter box. Obviously the wheel is garbage. It looks like a 10-speed bike tire from the 80's.

Here's a couple pics of the wheel. The first pic is with the top plate up completely. It barely comes up past the top plate.



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Old 06-29-2010, 06:31 AM   #14
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You say in the first pic the top plate is competely up?
Since the wheel will come out even more when you press down the top plate, I'd say the wheel itself looks pretty big. On my Mugen box the wheel doesn't stick out of the plate at all (if not pressed down). Maybe this could be your Problem. Could it be the rubber wheel is kind of self made and not an original spare part? In the photo it looks like the rubber wheel might barely touch the engine's flywheel even if you don't press the top plate down.
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Old 06-29-2010, 06:48 AM   #15
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You say in the first pic the top plate is competely up?
Since the wheel will come out even more when you press down the top plate, I'd say the wheel itself looks pretty big. On my Mugen box the wheel doesn't stick out of the plate at all (if not pressed down). Maybe this could be your Problem. Could it be the rubber wheel is kind of self made and not an original spare part? In the photo it looks like the rubber wheel might barely touch the engine's flywheel even if you don't press the top plate down.
the wheel looks like the original part, at least from pics I see online of replacement wheels.

The wheel doesn't touch the flywheel when the chassis it resting on the tabs (not flush on the box top plate) If I put the chassis flush on the top plate its still a few mm off the flywheel. Then when I press the box down the motor just binds and doesn't spin, although it spins freely without anything touching it.

Replacement wheels are flat on the edges and this wheel is tapered to a point from wear, so I really don't know how much wheel is really left.

The crappy thing is I've been unable to find another starter in my area that works with my vehicles.

I tried a Dynamite brand 1/10 scale starter for my Hyper 10sc. The wheel on that is an inch away from my flywheel when pressed down because the handle you press down is also the rear aligning plate for the chassis (Stupid Design)
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