Getting the Hot Bodies D8
#46
http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...eak-bible.html
I would read that first.. I have somewhat changed my break in method over the course of my 8 year nitro tenure. That above guide is pretty handy.. some people follow the manual that came with the engine while others break in their motors all the same regardless of company.
I would read that first.. I have somewhat changed my break in method over the course of my 8 year nitro tenure. That above guide is pretty handy.. some people follow the manual that came with the engine while others break in their motors all the same regardless of company.
#47
Tech Elite
iTrader: (7)
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ine-Turbo-Plug
IMO you cant beat it. its a GRP basically and those were one of the best engines ever. most people would agree.
IMO you cant beat it. its a GRP basically and those were one of the best engines ever. most people would agree.
#49
Tech Elite
iTrader: (3)
Well
Wow, if this is the same Merdith from Amain... I'm very proud of you for not BLASTING every product you have no experience with You really should stop with your comments, they mean nothing and waste people's time.
Its simply put that most engines today in the $200+ range can perform comparably. The problem stems from USER error. The break in procedure is often cut short or done completely wrong... tuning is a never ending journey that many have no clue as to what they are doing. I have run the JPX(great mill) B5(great mill) and even a GO gsr(great mill).
Its simply put that most engines today in the $200+ range can perform comparably. The problem stems from USER error. The break in procedure is often cut short or done completely wrong... tuning is a never ending journey that many have no clue as to what they are doing. I have run the JPX(great mill) B5(great mill) and even a GO gsr(great mill).
On the track, I have had good luck with Novarossi engines. I have not had race ending or terminal premature failures, other than a pesky front bearing recently. I do have experience with a wide range of cars and engines, etc, being helpful at the track, in the pits, and in my garage I find out what werks and what may need improvement. The most popular engines in the Houston area are the Alpha's, the Novarossi's, and some werks, OS and Mugens.
I don't really see any engine as being any easier to tune, you just have to get to know your particular engine. For example, a guy who runs a Novarossi like me may not really know what to do for an OS or Mugen engine, and vise versa.
Your price range is 150-250. Now that leaves some serious room to maneuver. The first engine at 150 dollars is the Novarossi .21bf, then the Force, Alpha and Werks engines at around 200 bucks. The P5 is 250 and my personal favorite, after that they get to the 300 plus range.
Last edited by merdith6; 06-15-2010 at 09:16 PM.
#50
Heres another engine to look at. Its cheap and ive heard a lot of good things about them. Ive heard a lot of great things about them stock and mod. I just ordered a modded one for 250 but you can get that stock for 175. Dont seem to bad to me.
http://www.nitrohouse.com/catalog/pr...431#googlebase
http://www.nitrohouse.com/catalog/pr...431#googlebase
#51
Tech Elite
iTrader: (53)
[QUOTE=bbrace3m;7546494]im lovin it keep the info coming!!!![/QUOTE
since your club is small don't sell your electric just yet get the D8 as a back up car.
In my option since this is going to be your first nitro ever I would buy 2 engines a cheap one to start off with and expect to replace it with a good one after you've blown it up learning how to tune. We've all had to go through a learning curve on how to property set up a engine in fact my practice engine is a cheap losi 350 I would recommend one or a dynamite mach 2 .21. Then get a werks B5 or B6 for racing once you've learned how to read the engine and correct the needle adjustments whenever needed per race day.
since your club is small don't sell your electric just yet get the D8 as a back up car.
In my option since this is going to be your first nitro ever I would buy 2 engines a cheap one to start off with and expect to replace it with a good one after you've blown it up learning how to tune. We've all had to go through a learning curve on how to property set up a engine in fact my practice engine is a cheap losi 350 I would recommend one or a dynamite mach 2 .21. Then get a werks B5 or B6 for racing once you've learned how to read the engine and correct the needle adjustments whenever needed per race day.
#53
Werks b5 (4gal still runs great), dynamite pipe 086(1.5 gal), werks adjustable clutch (~1.5gal).
PM me for more details if your interested.
#54
Get the Ofna Jl .21 over the Dynamite for sure.. there are two JL engine that run at my local track.. good little motors.
#55
thanks for advice. looks like i will get the ofna one. im currently setting a blitz ese up so this will have to wait til fall which will give me the whole winter to play with it and figure it out. i just watched a tuning video by drake and it looks like its a little complicated. looks like lots of learning to do which i fine thats what i like to do
#56
Tech Elite
iTrader: (7)
the JL seems to be a good engine. but i would get a nova BF limited. they are 150ish on Amain and they will last forever.
#57
i know the hyper 21 wont last but 4-5 gallons before it becomes a terd and wont tune for nothing. i had two of them and both barely made it 4 gallon. also i keep seeing way too many dynamite engines blow, the piston just shatters. i have seen 3 this month. and one of my friends had 3 of them and he blew one every month.
the JL seems to be a good engine. but i would get a nova BF limited. they are 150ish on Amain and they will last forever.
the JL seems to be a good engine. but i would get a nova BF limited. they are 150ish on Amain and they will last forever.
#58
neither. Those are such crappy engines. You will get mayge a gallon out of them. Spend the extra money and get that jl .21 and get a used jp3
#59
Tech Elite
iTrader: (53)
I think you guys are missing my point, why spend a lot of money on a top notch engine when the risk of the damaging it is high since he will be learning how to tune it (keep in mind he never owned a nitro before). Get a cheap new engine and screw around with the needles listen, watch and learn what the engine is doing once you understand little more what the engine wants as far a tune goes the better off you'll be in the long run when its time to purchase a "race engine".. I've seen way too many new comers go out and buy a $300+ engine and blow it up in no time causing them to stay away from nitro because its "too much work and hassle to stay tuned" a lot of electric guys (myself included) are used to "plug and play" that concept doesn't work nitro cars.
Last edited by nv529; 06-16-2010 at 01:30 PM.
#60
I think you guys are missing my point, why spend a lot of money on a top notch engine when the risk of the damaging it is high since he will be learning how to tune it (keep in mind he never owned a nitro before). Get a cheap new engine and screw around with the needles listen, watch and learn what the engine is doing once you understand little more what the engine wants as far a tune goes the better off you'll be in the long run when its time to purchase a "race engine".. I've seen way too many new comers go out and buy a $300+ engine and blow it up in no time causing them to stay away from nitro because its "too much work and hassle to stay tuned" a lot of electric guys (myself included) are used to "plug and play" that concept doesn't work nitro cars.