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Old 06-12-2010, 01:18 PM   #16
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http://www.aeforums.co.uk/forum/inde...showtopic=1813
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Old 06-12-2010, 01:27 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by JsK View Post
There is nothing wrong with your diff oil 5/5/5 is the starting point
for all RC8s.

You said you upgraded to big bores so 25wt is in the ballpark depending
on what piston you have.

Springs? If you upgraded to big bores the stock springs would not fit?
What bigbores did you get?

If your springs are even close to a normal RC8 rate then I would say that
your problem might be something mechanical and not your setup.

I Beams are really not known for having alot of steering. What tire is the
Losi running?

Check the DIR rate on your radio. Its in a easy place to hit accidently.
Turn on your radio and push the button either + or - and see what the
display says. Its very easy to thumb out a bunch of steering rate when
your driving and not realize it. Should be 100%.

Servo saver, look at page 9 in your manual and make sure the collar
has not backed off. Should be 8mm from the bottom of the bellcrank
arm. Look in your manual it will show you where to measure from.

Servo, are you still running the RTR ones. What RX pack are you
running? If your buddy has a nice steering servo in his Losi and a
6volt rechargeble RX pack and your still running the stock servo
with AAs it will make a HUGE difference.
I bought the big bores off of ebay from a new rc8b that someone parted out, so I have the normal springs.

I have my servo saver pretty tight. I've never measured it but it's hard for me to make it take effect when I use my hand to try and move it. It's almost tight enough that it would snap a horn if I hit just right.

I have upgraded my stearing servo to an ace, it's a 173 oz. I plan to move it to throttle whenever I get the cash to get a hitech steering servo.

I've got a 1900 rx pack.

One of the losi's had the stock tires that come on the RTR, and I think the other one had city blocks on it.

I did just check my travle though on my radio for the steering, and it was set to 85 on both R and L. I had a friend messing with it the other day and They might have turned it down to there. By looking at the wheels turning it seemed like I could get it up to 100 without any binding. That should help out some. Maybe even more then I think.
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Old 06-12-2010, 01:29 PM   #18
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I started to do the steering mod, but I was told by a pretty good driver that it wasn't needed. I still kind of want to give it a try someday.
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Old 06-12-2010, 01:36 PM   #19
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Yes the Original FT kits came that way but they changed to 5/5/5
early last season. Really the only people that I see changing as far
as Team Driver setup sheets is Cragg and EU drivers running on
Astro turf.
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Old 06-12-2010, 02:19 PM   #20
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Did you use the RC8B standoffs for the shocks? The bigbores will rub
if you use the original standoffs, they also hit the wing mount in the
rear. Make sure they are not rubbing on anything.

The factory Bronze front springs are to stiff even with the forward
battery location. You want the silvers. #89293 front and #89348
Rear. This spring set should help alot but you should also move the
Battery forward so you will be working with the same weigth distribution
as the RC8B. The forward battery box tray is #89471. These are pretty
cheap parts figure 6 bucks apeice for the spring sets and maybe 8-9 for
the Radio tray. The standoffs are not cheap though so if you have a limited
budget just get the front ones first.

Dont worry to much about the steering mod yet.

Get the proper springs on the car, move the RX battery forward, and make
sure you dont have any binding issues in the suspension.
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Old 06-12-2010, 02:33 PM   #21
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Oh yeah if you have a Cell# PM me. Almost everyone has free weekend
minutes and free long distance. I can better explain what I was talking
about with DIR and endpoint adjustments on your radio.
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Old 06-12-2010, 04:06 PM   #22
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Team Associated 1/8 scale Buggy Info and Tips

Go to this link and dial Shanes setup into your RC8, it will solve all your problems, not one person who has driven my buggy since i have installed this hasnt been blown away by how sharp it turns, it turns hard on full power in tight corners, you will probably be dialing steering OUT of this setup.
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Old 06-12-2010, 04:24 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NJA82 View Post
Team Associated 1/8 scale Buggy Info and Tips

Go to this link and dial Shanes setup into your RC8, it will solve all your problems, not one person who has driven my buggy since i have installed this hasnt been blown away by how sharp it turns, it turns hard on full power in tight corners, you will probably be dialing steering OUT of this setup.
Yeah except he has totaly different weight distribution, different shock
towers and a different chassis flex.
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Old 06-12-2010, 07:25 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JsK View Post
Did you use the RC8B standoffs for the shocks? The bigbores will rub
if you use the original standoffs, they also hit the wing mount in the
rear. Make sure they are not rubbing on anything.

The factory Bronze front springs are to stiff even with the forward
battery location. You want the silvers. #89293 front and #89348
Rear. This spring set should help alot but you should also move the
Battery forward so you will be working with the same weigth distribution
as the RC8B. The forward battery box tray is #89471. These are pretty
cheap parts figure 6 bucks apeice for the spring sets and maybe 8-9 for
the Radio tray. The standoffs are not cheap though so if you have a limited
budget just get the front ones first.

Dont worry to much about the steering mod yet.

Get the proper springs on the car, move the RX battery forward, and make
sure you dont have any binding issues in the suspension.
I've done the battery box mod. I'm using the factory standoffs, and it doesn't seem to be making the shocks hit anywhere. But they do come very, very close in the rear when the shocks are fully extended. I haven't seen any marks yet that would make me think they were hitting.

I'm going to order the spring kit the next time I place an order for anything, and I'll also look at the other standoffs. I like to wait until I have at least 100$ worth of stuff so that I can use a coupon. I know it's only 5 bucks I save, but it's also alot more exciting when you get a bunch of stuff in the mail at once, plus the savings add up on the shipping a good bit.
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Old 06-12-2010, 09:40 PM   #25
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I'm a little rusty on Rc8's, I buried mine in the track a while ago.

More turn-in:
-shorten rear camber links
-lower rear inner camber link
-more front caster
-more rear droop -3/-5
-AKA soft Gridirons
-4/4/3 in the diffs
-2 front toeout
-increase rear camber alot (-4)
- lose the blue ft +2 hubs and use the silver RTR +0 hubs. (less track width)
-softer front springs
-gold rear sway bar
-softer front shock oil.
-arms level rear, arms below level front
-more front camber
-Ae has 1.3x8 taper pistons and 1.1x10 taper pistons available now right?

Last edited by Zerodefect; 06-15-2010 at 04:50 AM.
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Old 06-12-2010, 11:11 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bevofrancis View Post
How do I adjust the droop. I have the RS version of the RC8 so I'm not sure if I would do it the same way as the RC8B. This is my first anything as far as RC goes, so I really don't know much, if anything.
There's a hex screw in each a-arm that you can turn in or out to shorten or lengthen the shocks. This is one of the first things I'd try because it's easy. Track surface and driving style will determine how you set up your car more than anything IMO, but it's a learning precess figuring out what all the settings do..I'm still working on that one. X-Ray has a good off-road setup guide that you can download, some guys like it, some don't, but at least it gives you some kind of direction in helping you analyze your own problems.

best of luck, and don't give up on the RC8, it's a rocket and should be able to turn into the end of a pipe when setup to your liking.
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Old 06-12-2010, 11:21 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NitroFreakManHo View Post
There's a hex screw in each a-arm that you can turn in or out to shorten or lengthen the shocks. This is one of the first things I'd try because it's easy. Track surface and driving style will determine how you set up your car more than anything IMO, but it's a learning precess figuring out what all the settings do..I'm still working on that one. X-Ray has a good off-road setup guide that you can download, some guys like it, some don't, but at least it gives you some kind of direction in helping you analyze your own problems.

best of luck, and don't give up on the RC8, it's a rocket and should be able to turn into the end of a pipe when setup to your liking.
I just took my rear end off and stumbled upon the droop adjustment screw. The bad part is that once I got the rear end back together I have hardly any rebound at all. I've took the buggy apart a good bit now and thought I was starting to know what I was doing. I don't see anywhere binding up, so I guess I'll just take it all aprt again tommorow and put it back together and see if that fixes it.

It's going to rain here all week so I'll have plenty of time to tinker with the buggy. It just sucks when you screw up and have to take something apart and put it back together tight after you just did it.

Right now these buggys are a love hate relationship for me. I love racing them but I hate the learning curve that comes with it.
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Old 06-14-2010, 07:01 PM   #28
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I made some changes.
553 instead of 555 diff oil.
Changed my front upper bushing to 2 up from 1
and gave myself more servo travel
also went from the rear hole to the front on the ackerman arm. I think that's what it's called.

I got a little more steering, but after I ran mine I ran my friends losi again and there is no comparison. His turns in so much sharper. There is one turn on his track where you really notice it. It a small step up into a turn. When you land it there are 2 options, take the inside and hit a small jump on the lip where it's a double double, or take the outside and go through a section of whoops. The inside lane knocks a good 3 seconds of your lap time. It by far the most important section of the track.

The losi's are the only buggys that can make this turn. My RC8, buddys MBX6, friends losi truggy and a new jammin, can't remember what else doesn't have the turn in to come close.

I really don't know what else to do to get more turn in and turn under power.

One thing I did notice between my RC8 and his losi was that mine seems to have more steering with smaller adjustments. His you have to make hard turns to get it to turn, but when it does it turns hard. The RC8 is easier to steer at mid to high speed, but the losi is so much tighter in the turns.

Here's a few questions.
How much difference could lowering my car make? Right now I'm close to 29-30.

Would softer front springs make much of a difference?

And what else could I try to get more turn in at lower speeds?

It kind of seems like I started noticing the difference in how the 2 buggy turn after I put the big bore shocks on.
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Old 06-15-2010, 02:41 AM   #29
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Get the Silver springs, they will make quite a bit of difference. You
want both the fronts and the rears.

I just took my rear end off and stumbled upon the droop adjustment screw. The bad part is that once I got the rear end back together I have hardly any rebound at all. I've took the buggy apart a good bit now and thought I was starting to know what I was doing. I don't see anywhere binding up, so I guess I'll just take it all aprt again tommorow and put it back together and see if that fixes it.


The old style droop screws auger in to the chassis. You only use them to
find your setting then run limiters in the shocks. I dont remember how
much rear droop the team was running with the big bores and old style
towers, you need to get on RC10.com and go through Brents setup
thread from begining to end. If the back ends hanging up you might
have the shock caps reversed on the standoffs, they only go one
way without rubbing.
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Old 06-15-2010, 04:41 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bevofrancis View Post
I made some changes.
553 instead of 555 diff oil.
Changed my front upper bushing to 2 up from 1
and gave myself more servo travel
also went from the rear hole to the front on the ackerman arm. I think that's what it's called.

I got a little more steering, but after I ran mine I ran my friends losi again and there is no comparison. His turns in so much sharper. There is one turn on his track where you really notice it. It a small step up into a turn. When you land it there are 2 options, take the inside and hit a small jump on the lip where it's a double double, or take the outside and go through a section of whoops. The inside lane knocks a good 3 seconds of your lap time. It by far the most important section of the track.

I just saw an Rc8 about 2weeks ago that looked pretty dialed, and alot better than the old Rc8's. So keep at it, you'll find your way to a setup eventually, dont fear dropping the rear camber links all the way down and going full short.

The losi's are the only buggys that can make this turn. My RC8, buddys MBX6, friends losi truggy and a new jammin, can't remember what else doesn't have the turn in to come close.

I really don't know what else to do to get more turn in and turn under power.

One thing I did notice between my RC8 and his losi was that mine seems to have more steering with smaller adjustments. His you have to make hard turns to get it to turn, but when it does it turns hard. The RC8 is easier to steer at mid to high speed, but the losi is so much tighter in the turns.

Here's a few questions.
How much difference could lowering my car make? Right now I'm close to 29-30.

Would softer front springs make much of a difference?

And what else could I try to get more turn in at lower speeds?

It kind of seems like I started noticing the difference in how the 2 buggy turn after I put the big bore shocks on.
Not enough changes. And put your akerman back into the rear hole, went the wrong way with that. Reread my above post and do it. Especially the RTR hubs if our useing the stock +2mm FT hubs. (assuming new Rc8's still use them) You shouldn't need max steering throw too often, your understeering bad.

A Mugen Mbx6 can do everything the Losi can. It just takes some tuning to get it there, like the Xray it has a World setup stock. The American track setting will seem like maxing out all the aggressive settings.

Last edited by Zerodefect; 06-15-2010 at 05:01 AM.
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