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Old 05-19-2011, 07:45 AM   #46
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Originally Posted by Donat View Post
Ok, with the engine removed i looked at it closely and there IS a possibility that wheel is touching the chassis. Unfortunately i killed my engine a few days ago so i can't check if alignment is an issue but on Friday i will check it with my friend's 2.0 truggy - hopefully it will fit on the box.

Also the isolation of one of the wires is slightly damaged. The wire itself looks untouched.





It doesn't look too good but may it make the box stop working? ...
best way a align the wheel to chassis is with the motor out of the car/truck. makes it alot easier to see. as for the wire it may restrict full power to starter box motor. but i dont think enough to not start your truggy
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Old 05-19-2011, 08:01 AM   #47
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I has single 770 motor and it's spinning... atleast if no load is applied. The problem accurs while trying to start the engine. It seems like it would really like to start the engine but couldn't do this.

What can cause that? Motor brushes?

I'm really surprised that this box stopped working properly. It's not very old and wasn't being used in "extreme" conditions...
You might need a new wheel. I had troubles with mine this spring, and new wheel made an amazing difference..
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Old 05-19-2011, 08:04 AM   #48
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Originally Posted by Donat View Post
Ok, with the engine removed i looked at it closely and there IS a possibility that wheel is touching the chassis. Unfortunately i killed my engine a few days ago so i can't check if alignment is an issue but on Friday i will check it with my friend's 2.0 truggy - hopefully it will fit on the box.

Also the isolation of one of the wires is slightly damaged. The wire itself looks untouched.





It doesn't look too good but may it make the box stop working? ...
If that wire is touching anything grounded then it could be drawing current away.. That wire needs replaced, or at the very least wrapped in electrical tape until its replaced..
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Old 05-19-2011, 08:23 AM   #49
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Ok, I wrapped the wire with electrical tape and will replace the wheel soon. I will test it tomorrow. Thank you for advices!
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Old 05-19-2011, 08:49 AM   #50
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I used to have that box back in the day and know they don't particularly work very well on Losi's. Again i highly suggest an upgrade to the Truggy box. You'll thank yourself in the end, Trust me.
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Old 05-19-2011, 08:53 AM   #51
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Originally Posted by DeastyBoy View Post
I realise that it's likely been posted before, but when I went to Lipo I wanted my starter box contact switch to last, for a long time. So I added a relay. Once I got that far I decided to re-build (ans solder) the whole thing. I added charge/check ports and a voltage buzzer. The box is excellent now, and is dummy proof (the buzzer is ANNOYING and LOUD).

Since I've been asked before I drew up a quick wiring diagram. The way it's wired, if the switch is off, nothing works, not even the charge ports or buzzer. That way if the switch is off there is no chance of something bridging the ports and shorting things out. I unplug the deans for transport as a secondary safety.

Hopefully this all makes sense. I used a typical automotive SPST (Single pole/single throw) relay available at almost any auto parts store. I'll have to post a pic of the actual box later, as I don't have one yet.

Great wiring diagram, thanks for posting it.
I've been doing the 30/40 amp relay mod on all of my starterboxes
for a few years now. I don't think most people realize just how much
power they loose by running the main motor power through the bump
switch and a cheap on/off switch. Or how soldering every wire connection
can save them from alot of headaches in the long run.
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Old 05-19-2011, 09:16 AM   #52
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I used to have that box back in the day and know they don't particularly work very well on Losi's. Again i highly suggest an upgrade to the Truggy box. You'll thank yourself in the end, Trust me.
If i was sponsored I would surely own one

I've just killed my engine so unfortunately no $ for a new starter box... RC in Poland is about 2 times more expensive than in USA, e.g. 50$ + for a gallon of fuel etc. It is cheaper to buy rc-stuff in USA, ship it and pay taxes (about 25% of products value)...

I have just put a new wheel in my box and inspected it for any resistance. Everything seems to be ok. Hope it will work as breaking in a new engine requires even more power from the starter box...
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Old 05-19-2011, 10:34 AM   #53
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I would get the dual motor starter box. You will notice more power right away, worth the 90$.
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Old 05-20-2011, 06:04 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rageworks View Post
Great wiring diagram, thanks for posting it.
I've been doing the 30/40 amp relay mod on all of my starterboxes
for a few years now. I don't think most people realize just how much
power they loose by running the main motor power through the bump
switch and a cheap on/off switch. Or how soldering every wire connection
can save them from alot of headaches in the long run.
This is so true for every bump box out there, it should be written in large, bold and red letters!
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Old 09-03-2012, 06:32 AM   #55
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digging up an old thread here but....

i have a single motor starter and I'm debating going the lipo. most people here seem to have a twin and mention 4s. would 4 cels be too much for the one motor or does it not matter? should i be thinking about the discharge rate (c rating) over voltage between 1 or 2 motors? I'm thinking if you use 30-40c for 2 motors maybe use 25C for a single?

any thoughts
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Old 09-03-2012, 07:31 AM   #56
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is it one of those Ofna boxes w/ the huge 12v motors? If so, I wouldn't worry about it.

If it's one of the single 775 motors- I may.
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Old 09-04-2012, 04:26 AM   #57
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yeah i think it is a q-world with single 775...
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