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Old 05-28-2010, 07:29 PM   #16
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im a little confused.

So you want it tight, but not like extremely tight? Like maybe taking a small amount of force to turn the wheels (thus compressing servo saver spring) while the servos are on.
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Old 05-28-2010, 07:52 PM   #17
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I agree this is a bit confusing... Some peolpe grease theres and some dont also which would make it different again

Is there a tourqe/ force spec we could aim for using a spring gauge etc?

Seems some people just reckon tighten them right up which i am thinking of doing because i feel mine is letting me down however mine is allready tighter than most at my track

How long are servos lasting the guys that tighten them right up?



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Old 05-28-2010, 08:17 PM   #18
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I run a HiTec 7955TG servo for steering. So same as question above, would I be pretty safe to tighten my saver a good bit?

I feel the same, I feel like my saver is sucking up some of my steering. And I think mine feels the same was as somebody said earlier about cornering, mine seems to push outward. Could be my problem
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Old 05-28-2010, 08:26 PM   #19
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Setting your endpoints correctly are just as important as setting your servo saver correctly. Unnecessary strain on your servo will cause it to fail eventually, sometimes quickly and sometimes it may take a bit but it will fail. Your servo saver should be set just tight enough to turn your wheels back and forth with full throw with the car on the ground. Anything more than that and you are just asking for trouble. The main purpose of the servo saver is to save your servo! If you hit a pipe or crash you need that extra play to assure it does not strip your servo gears or blow your servo altogether. having a plastic servo horn will also help as that would more than likely strip before your metal geared servo, but they are known to strip prematurely. Stick with aluminum servo horn, set your epa's correctly and tighten your saver just enough, and then secure it with some CA glue so it stays put. You should be fine from there
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Old 05-29-2010, 03:05 AM   #20
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I broke my stock servo saver so I replace the one I had with a spare. the spare was so tight that it chewd through 3 servos on one race day. ( 2 futaba BLS 352's, one ACE 1015) I read the manual and it says for a losi 8t "tighten all the way and back off two turns" after I did that its been fine. Still kinda tight but my servos are still alive!!
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Old 05-29-2010, 11:54 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beenbreto View Post
I broke my stock servo saver so I replace the one I had with a spare. the spare was so tight that it chewd through 3 servos on one race day. ( 2 futaba BLS 352's, one ACE 1015) I read the manual and it says for a losi 8t "tighten all the way and back off two turns" after I did that its been fine. Still kinda tight but my servos are still alive!!
Hi bro,

Just wanna ask what's the proper settings for the Buggy... i don't recall losi having to mention it on th manual. I have already stripped 2 Futaba S9351 yesterday..

Thanks,
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Old 05-30-2010, 12:06 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaz240 View Post
Once you find the desired place for the set screw on your servo saver run a bead of CA glue around the top of the tension adjustment ring. You will still be able to move the ring if you need to but never have to worry about it backing off on its own
I do the same thing with thread lock. It can be irritating if you thread lock it before you screw it on, it locks in too good, so I put it on the edge too.

I wish a better design could be used. It seems like 1980's style.

As for locking it down, sure it works and some servos can handle it, but Not a great idea in my book. I just turn my radio on and grab the front tires and turn them and see if it is still giving enough resistance to have plenty of steering, if not after a bit of wear, tighten it up some.
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Old 05-30-2010, 12:10 AM   #23
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Hi bro,

Just wanna ask what's the proper settings for the Buggy... i don't recall losi having to mention it on th manual. I have already stripped 2 Futaba S9351 yesterday..

Thanks,
Those servos are really nice. Looking at the servo saver on the side, you need room for the saver to back off wide enough spring to fit the plastic in. It's not a perfect science so back it off and drive it or turn the wheels and if it won't turn by hand it's too tight....
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Old 05-30-2010, 12:22 AM   #24
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hello guys,

just my 2cents, on all my offroad cars, i set the Servo saver at 1.5mm. (you screw it in untill you have 1.5mm of thread left under the adjusting ring)

if you run a a losi 8ight 2.0, the best servo saver is the one from the
8ight T 1.0, the spring is not very hard like the 2.0 buggy and not very soft like the 1.0 buggy one. its just perfect.

dont grease any part of the servo saver as it will make all the dust/ dirt get stuck and makes it even worse.

i do use a drop or 2 of blue lock-tite to keep it in place as it tends to loosen and touches the chassis on the 8ight not the Kyoshos, thats when you will feel the steering is becoming funny.

and i dont think tighting it all the way is a good idea, it will be running without a servo saver, if you hit hard, your servo will die. i race the same steering servo for 2 seasons now, it was on my buggy and on the truggy with many gallons and no issues.

hope this helps

cheers

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Old 05-30-2010, 03:52 AM   #25
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Another way to stop it unwinding is to use two nuts on the servo saver - one acts as a locking nut.

I've still not got the setting right on my MBX6T - manual says 4mm from bottom of tube and I ran last weekend at 10mm and it still felt it could go tighter...

Going to switch to my older spare servo for a practice session and wind it up a bit more and see if the servo gets through that !

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Old 05-30-2010, 05:37 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KWT-NITRO View Post
hello guys,

just my 2cents, on all my offroad cars, i set the Servo saver at 1.5mm. (you screw it in untill you have 1.5mm of thread left under the adjusting ring)

if you run a a losi 8ight 2.0, the best servo saver is the one from the
8ight T 1.0, the spring is not very hard like the 2.0 buggy and not very soft like the 1.0 buggy one. its just perfect.

i do use a drop or 2 of blue lock-tite to keep it in place as it tends to loosen and touches the chassis on the 8ight not the Kyoshos, thats when you will feel the steering is becoming funny.

hope this helps

cheers

Ali
Hi Ali,

I don't have the option to get the Losi T 1.0 servo saver.. so what's the alternatives? from the bottom bearing, the holding nut for the servo saver is flushed with the bearing. Should i loosen a bit more? or tighten a bit? i can check that the saver nut still has space and not touching the chassis. Also where do you put the loctite? on the nut? pictures please?

Also how to know if the saver does work properly?

Thanks,
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Old 05-30-2010, 02:29 PM   #27
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What does the 8B manual say for the servo saver settings? Also one of my bolts on the stearing linkages was almost backed all the way out rubbing against the anker plate that was a reason also
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Old 05-30-2010, 02:35 PM   #28
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Losi 8ight 2.0 manual says tighten all the way then back off 5.5 turns. I run mine backed off 5.25 turns and it's good.
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Old 05-30-2010, 04:13 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Audiobahnaholic View Post
Losi 8ight 2.0 manual says tighten all the way then back off 5.5 turns. I run mine backed off 5.25 turns and it's good.
Noted bro, and your using the stock losi 2.0 servo saver with black spring? or changes to losi truggy servo saver springs?

Thanks
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Old 05-30-2010, 06:13 PM   #30
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what settings do you guys think for a 8ight B 1.0 RTR model? Or go with another spring? if so, what spring and will it fit?
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