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Old 05-25-2010, 11:15 PM   #1
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Default losi 8ight t 2.0 dif problems

whats up, i have a nitro and brushless 8ight t 2.0 and they both have rear difs startin to grind, ive got a d8 also and the difs in it are so much better built and have never had a problem with it but these losi difs it seems like im changing them every other race if not every race!! how do yall shim these difs? ive been lookin and havnt been able to find where anyone tells how to do this, or will a different brand or type of dif work in them? thanks!
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Old 05-26-2010, 04:28 AM   #2
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whats up, i have a nitro and brushless 8ight t 2.0 and they both have rear difs startin to grind, ive got a d8 also and the difs in it are so much better built and have never had a problem with it but these losi difs it seems like im changing them every other race if not every race!! how do yall shim these difs? ive been lookin and havnt been able to find where anyone tells how to do this, or will a different brand or type of dif work in them? thanks!
You should have a bearing shim that will go on the left side(looking from rear of car) adjust this with the case open. If your having a lot of problems with this check your bearings for wear and play. I found this to be my problem when I ripped the pinion out about a month ago. If the bearing has slack in it...toss it! In 2 1/3 to 3 years of racing the losi platform,this is the only problem I've encountered with the diffs. Remember this: Bearing got play? Then it can't stay!
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Old 05-26-2010, 12:49 PM   #3
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You should have a bearing shim that will go on the left side(looking from rear of car) adjust this with the case open. If your having a lot of problems with this check your bearings for wear and play. I found this to be my problem when I ripped the pinion out about a month ago. If the bearing has slack in it...toss it! In 2 1/3 to 3 years of racing the losi platform,this is the only problem I've encountered with the diffs. Remember this: Bearing got play? Then it can't stay!
ok thanks man, one other thing, how close should i shim the gears togather? about like you do for the motor and spur gear? thanks
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Old 05-26-2010, 06:07 PM   #4
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ok thanks man, one other thing, how close should i shim the gears togather? about like you do for the motor and spur gear? thanks
You do that and there gone in a tank of gas..... You want to shim them as tight as you can. Even the book shows it way to loose. As your rear starts wearing it will take more shims. If its shimmed right it will be on the tight side. Should be know sideplay at all. When you turn the coupler the gears should move right now.
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Old 05-26-2010, 06:21 PM   #5
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I haven't had a problem with my rear diff blowing out (of coarse now that I say that...) what I do is add as many shims on the left side of the ring gear as you can to take out all or as much of the "lash" as possible while still allowing the gears to spin. When Im done I have one spot that is a little tight. If your rear diff is butter smooth when you are done shimming, and you have back lash between the ring and pinion, then it's not going to last long at all. I don't even have any shims on the right side of my ring gear anymore.
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Old 05-26-2010, 06:47 PM   #6
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should of bought a mugen
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Old 05-26-2010, 09:50 PM   #7
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If you have the money start from square one:
new ring gear
new pinion
new bearings all the way around
hopefully you have the Aluminum inserts
new gear box
** remember plastic does flex under high pressure/ stress and since you've been having problems and it sounds like you been chasing it take the guess work out "REPLACE IT ALL"

lastly shim the diff tight but smooth with no binding nor should it be hard to turn in the diff housing see how that works and let us know what happens. Im sure between the 1 million on RC TECH we can figure it out
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Old 05-26-2010, 10:40 PM   #8
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should of bought a mugen
Hell,he wanted a chance to win......or,he woulda bought a mugen!
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Old 05-27-2010, 09:12 AM   #9
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should of bought a mugen
With that user name?
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Old 05-27-2010, 09:29 AM   #10
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alright guys, thanks alot for the info, i think i need to replace all the plastic pices and get the metal insert too, but im gonna have to order all that so im gonna rebuild it with the gears i have and go ahead and order like a whole bos of these gears lol
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Old 05-27-2010, 09:32 AM   #11
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YEA...IF YOUVE CHEWED UP ANY GEARS GO AHEAD AND REDO THE WHOLE THING.....YOU WONT BELIEVE THE HEAT CAUSED WHEN YOU RIP THE GEARS OUT....THE ASS END OF MY CHASSIS WAS HOOOTTTT!
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Old 05-27-2010, 11:48 AM   #12
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If you're going to rebuild it I'd check and see if you have the heavy-duty diff cups in there. The first batches of 2.0 Race Rollers came with the old style diff cups, the newer heavy-duty ones use metal inserts to disperse pressure from the pins holding the spider gears. You can tell the new ones by how they are round and smooth on the outside while the older cups have an almost rectangular shape.


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