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Old 05-19-2010, 06:05 AM   #1
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Default Losi 8ight RTR ok to race with?

Now I assure most of you are going to say no, go get a 2.0. But hear me out on my situation on what I have done to my RTR 8ight buggy. A while back I bought a Losi 8ight RTR model buggy 1.0. Since then here are the things I have replaced and/or added:

swapped 1.0 radio tray for a 2.0 radio tray
both shock towers to the ones from a race roller model
swapped motor mounts to 2.0 mounts to use a starter box
servos switched to Hitec 7955TG
rear outer hinge pin, modded to 2.0 style with threads on both ends
all around, front and read hinge pin braces from a race roller model
aluminum shock caps

and the motor, well im fixing to buy a Nova motor, so that dont really count.

Reason I ask this is because im wanting to know if I should be good to go like it is, and maybe just buy a couple more small upgrades. Or swap completely to a 2.0 race roller and use my electronics, servos, and motor. Money is definitely a factor here, seeing as the race roller models are around $600!!!

One thing I do notice on the 2.0 buggys is that they have a better chassis, and have the etched motor mount lines. What all would I need to do to swap to a 2.0 chassis??
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Old 05-19-2010, 06:32 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff_ellis_9 View Post
Now I assure most of you are going to say no, go get a 2.0. But hear me out on my situation on what I have done to my RTR 8ight buggy. A while back I bought a Losi 8ight RTR model buggy 1.0. Since then here are the things I have replaced and/or added:

swapped 1.0 radio tray for a 2.0 radio tray
both shock towers to the ones from a race roller model
swapped motor mounts to 2.0 mounts to use a starter box
servos switched to Hitec 7955TG
rear outer hinge pin, modded to 2.0 style with threads on both ends
all around, front and read hinge pin braces from a race roller model
aluminum shock caps

and the motor, well im fixing to buy a Nova motor, so that dont really count.

Reason I ask this is because im wanting to know if I should be good to go like it is, and maybe just buy a couple more small upgrades. Or swap completely to a 2.0 race roller and use my electronics, servos, and motor. Money is definitely a factor here, seeing as the race roller models are around $600!!!

One thing I do notice on the 2.0 buggys is that they have a better chassis, and have the etched motor mount lines. What all would I need to do to swap to a 2.0 chassis??
While the 2.0 is certainly a better buggy, there is nothing wrong with the original 8ight. It is still a good buggy. Sounds like you have done a lot of the important things to make it a better platform. (More durable!)

Run it! You can buy the 2.0 later after you have some more experience.
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Old 05-19-2010, 06:39 AM   #3
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ok. thanks for your input. yea the things I have added or replaced was trial and error upgrades. after I got it (factory form) a couple of bashing rounds and I bent hinge pin brace and broke plastic shock cap. So after stuff broke I replaced it with parts from a race roller model.

any body know what all will be needed to be done to swap to a 2.0 chassis?
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Old 05-19-2010, 06:58 AM   #4
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Sounds like you have done some good upgrades, If you want to run the 2.0 chassis all that is needed is the chassis of course and the rear driveline. the chassis sells for around $125 or so, I'm not sure of the driveline maybe $25. The TF chassis is a great upgrade to get. All the parts off the 1.0 should bolt up to it, someone else can chim in if I'm incorrect. But like Domit said the 1.0 is still a great buggy.
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Old 05-19-2010, 07:06 AM   #5
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I race with a guy that still eXes a 1.0 and he's very competitive with it. You hit the high points just go out and race.
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Old 05-19-2010, 07:12 AM   #6
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I DO recommend getting the aluminum inserts for the rear bulkhead. (Sorry, I don't know the proper part name... a Losi guy can chime in here.) It is the little funny looking part that holds the bearing for the rear diff outdrive on one side.
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Old 05-19-2010, 07:14 AM   #7
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i make a pt to run an RTR, trust me lotta $$$$ rigs and their owners are confused, disheartened, enlightened, or downright pissed when they see themselves below it on the timesheets

R
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Old 05-19-2010, 07:58 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ultegrasti View Post
i make a pt to run an RTR, trust me lotta $$$$ rigs and their owners are confused, disheartened, enlightened, or downright pissed when they see themselves below it on the timesheets

R
lol, yea your right.

DOMIT, I hope somebody chimes in to name that part you are talking about. anyone?
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Old 05-19-2010, 08:05 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff_ellis_9 View Post
lol, yea your right.

DOMIT, I hope somebody chimes in to name that part you are talking about. anyone?
Here ya go

Rear Gearbox Bearing Inserts, Aluminum 8B/8T 2.0
part#LOSA4454
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Old 05-19-2010, 08:11 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mudboger07 View Post
Here ya go

Rear Gearbox Bearing Inserts, Aluminum 8B/8T 2.0
part#LOSA4454
Are they the same as the ones for the 1.0? Remember that is what he has. (I used to have a 1.0 with that upgrade on it... long before the 2.0 came out. It helps make the rear ring and pinion last longer!)
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Old 05-19-2010, 08:17 AM   #11
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wow this is weird, I just posted about a problem I found on my rear diff today. Read my post, and tell me what you think:

how do I fix this?
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Old 05-19-2010, 08:18 AM   #12
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No they are not the same....

LOSA4430 is for the 1.0

LOSA4454 is for the 2.0


And they are a necessary upgrade
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Old 05-19-2010, 08:22 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by token View Post
No they are not the same....

LOSA4430 is for the 1.0

LOSA4454 is for the 2.0


And they are a necessary upgrade
There you go Jeff... you need LOSA4430 (and they're not an expensive part... well worth it!)
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Old 05-19-2010, 08:22 AM   #14
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so I need to order these? And will this fix my problem I posted above in the other thread?

http://cgi.ebay.com/LOSI-LOSA4430-AL...item439f37b1e3

and what are the shims, do I need those?
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Old 05-19-2010, 08:25 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mudboger07 View Post
Sounds like you have done some good upgrades, If you want to run the 2.0 chassis all that is needed is the chassis of course and the rear driveline. the chassis sells for around $125 or so, I'm not sure of the driveline maybe $25. The TF chassis is a great upgrade to get. All the parts off the 1.0 should bolt up to it, someone else can chim in if I'm incorrect. But like Domit said the 1.0 is still a great buggy.
everything from a 1.0 will bolt up to a 2.0 race roller chassie and the tft wich i have and love it i run 1.0 with the tft 1.0 chassie if u get the 2.0 remember u need rear drive line drive line think is 15 to 20 off ebay
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