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Old 05-19-2010, 10:50 AM   #31
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44 plus shipping is what i got mine for it and worth every penny im my opinion
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Old 05-19-2010, 11:01 AM   #32
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LOSI LOSA4400 TUNED-FLEX TECHNOLOGY CHASSIS 8IGHT BUGGY
43.87 and 8.95 to ship
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Losi 8ight RTR ok to race with?-b-8n-pgbgk%7E%24-kgrhgookj-ejllmzdmvbke5-ok3g%7E%7E_12.jpg  
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Old 05-19-2010, 02:52 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by newuserlosi8t View Post
1.0 diffs rtr \ are grease filled right not fluid i think that what was told to me i havent tore them down yet

Yes they are grease filled on an RTR. You need to tear them down, clean them out really good and put fluid in them. You will see a big difference to. Different people run different stuff. I run 5-7-3 in mine. That's Ofna fluid, haven't gotten any Losi fluid yet.
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Old 05-19-2010, 03:35 PM   #34
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Now I assure most of you are going to say no, go get a 2.0. But hear me out on my situation on what I have done to my RTR 8ight buggy. A while back I bought a Losi 8ight RTR model buggy 1.0. Since then here are the things I have replaced and/or added:

swapped 1.0 radio tray for a 2.0 radio tray
both shock towers to the ones from a race roller model
swapped motor mounts to 2.0 mounts to use a starter box
servos switched to Hitec 7955TG
rear outer hinge pin, modded to 2.0 style with threads on both ends
all around, front and read hinge pin braces from a race roller model
aluminum shock caps

and the motor, well im fixing to buy a Nova motor, so that dont really count.

Reason I ask this is because im wanting to know if I should be good to go like it is, and maybe just buy a couple more small upgrades. Or swap completely to a 2.0 race roller and use my electronics, servos, and motor. Money is definitely a factor here, seeing as the race roller models are around $600!!!

One thing I do notice on the 2.0 buggys is that they have a better chassis, and have the etched motor mount lines. What all would I need to do to swap to a 2.0 chassis??
Just buy a hotbodies d8 put that motor in, your servos, and maybe buy a remote like the m11 or 3pks. I mean thats like 500 dollars if you get the m11 and the d8. You will have a good motor, good servos, good remote and a good car. Cant beat that set up=)
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Old 05-20-2010, 12:35 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by DOMIT View Post
Well... I don't run Losi now... but I have a Hitec 7955TG servo and I crank it down so far it is nearly coil bound at rest. It depends on your servo.

NOTE: Unless they've corrected this issue... the 8ight 1.0 servo saver is more durable than the 2.0.

You mean basically no preload ?

I have your exactly same servo and I have also no preload ...... so I assume I am right ? I have also to say that I am using a hard duty servo spring anyway.
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Old 05-20-2010, 05:42 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by Tate72 View Post
Yes they are grease filled on an RTR. You need to tear them down, clean them out really good and put fluid in them. You will see a big difference to. Different people run different stuff. I run 5-7-3 in mine. That's Ofna fluid, haven't gotten any Losi fluid yet.
so even though they are grease filled, its fine to put fluid back in?

Also, can you give me the terminology of the weight? like 2000 will make it do this, or 5000 will make it what? I got the shock fluid down, but I need to understand diff fluid.

Also, do you ever need to just change the fluid once and a while? Or only when you switch wt?
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Old 05-20-2010, 05:52 AM   #37
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Originally Posted by jeff_ellis_9 View Post
so even though they are grease filled, its fine to put fluid back in?

Also, can you give me the terminology of the weight? like 2000 will make it do this, or 5000 will make it what? I got the shock fluid down, but I need to understand diff fluid.

Also, do you ever need to just change the fluid once and a while? Or only when you switch wt?
The grease is way cheaper for them than good quality silicon. You wanna get all the grease out, every bit before you refill. Here is a vid of Drake building a Diff.

http://www.youtube.com/user/LosiRaci.../2/Jm7gQCbnWMs


Some one on here have a link to the hudy setup page which I think breaks all that down for ya.

I tear down my car completely every screw, absolutely take everything apart before every big race 2 or 3 day races, and maybe every two or three club races. I replace all fluids...... You may not have to do it that often, maybe once a month or something IDK.......Yes you need to change it because it starts to break down and lose consistency.
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Last edited by token; 05-20-2010 at 06:04 AM.
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Old 05-20-2010, 07:27 AM   #38
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Originally Posted by rcdude236 View Post
Just buy a hotbodies d8 put that motor in, your servos, and maybe buy a remote like the m11 or 3pks. I mean thats like 500 dollars if you get the m11 and the d8. You will have a good motor, good servos, good remote and a good car. Cant beat that set up=)
Another fanboi...

That wouldn't be any better than what he has.
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Old 05-20-2010, 07:29 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmeth View Post
You mean basically no preload ?

I have your exactly same servo and I have also no preload ...... so I assume I am right ? I have also to say that I am using a hard duty servo spring anyway.
I mean I tighten it down until the spring can't compress any further... it makes the servo saver act like it is solid. Other things will break before that servo does...
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