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Old 04-30-2010, 06:10 AM   #16
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I am kinda old school I guess, an run their Illuzion body on my MBX6T and MBX6, on teh truggy I like the way it covers and protects the rear cf shock tower
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Old 04-30-2010, 07:13 AM   #17
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JC bodies are good, only reason they crack is from not having the holes big enough to compensate for the flex that the cars have
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Old 04-30-2010, 07:18 AM   #18
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+1 I always make the mounting holes elongated it really makes a differance in the life of the body.
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Old 04-30-2010, 11:19 AM   #19
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I haven't had any issues

shoe goo + oval out the holes?
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Old 04-30-2010, 04:16 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wriffwraff View Post
So, what about the Proline "Bulldog" body for the MBX6T. Do you [or anyone else for that matter] know if it's thicker or more durable?
ive never tried them but ive heard success with them, ive been happy with my stock losi bodies so im stick with stock, im not sure how other manu. stock bodies are tho
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Old 06-13-2010, 05:57 AM   #21
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Default JConcepts MBX6T Punisher body follow up

We'll as others here have suggested, I contacted JConcepts and they mailed me another body. The only downside is that I had already ordered two of the bodies from the start, so it's not like I needed a third one. Nonetheless, I've been running the second body that I purchased from them for a couple of races and practices now. I'm happy to say that it's holding up extremely well. Keep in mind that I rounded out the front mounting holes slightly larger and I put a mix of fiberglass tape and clear silicone around the front body holes. I think that's the difference for me this time around. The tape and silicone bond together nicely for needed strength. Hope this helps others.
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Old 06-13-2010, 10:10 AM   #22
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Don't know if people who don't own the MBX6T know this but the rear body mounts are rubber mounted and have lots of flex. I have never made oval holes in any of my bodies and never have had a problem.


The other thing is the paint you use. I'm sure you used the right kind but one time I used a rattle can for automotive use. The body was like glass it would crack super easy.
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Old 06-13-2010, 03:27 PM   #23
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I had one of there bodys crack my first race with it. I sent them an email about a week later I had a new body at my door and a set of 7sevens and about a week after that they sent me a set for crosshairs. I have been running the body they sent me for about a mouth now and no problems. I just put some duct tape on the front body mounts and have not had a problem sents.
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Old 06-13-2010, 11:44 PM   #24
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I made my holes larger and even ovaled the rear ones and the front area cracked on the first two runs. I placed another piece of lexan and shoe goo'ed it in place with some mesh tape and shoe goo. I left them a note when I ordered my sc tires but never heard anything from them regarding the body. I think the first batch may have been thinner in the front mount area
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Old 06-25-2011, 05:50 PM   #25
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I just had my body get blown out in the front as well for my RC8T. The whole hood area is just cracked and shattered. I wasn't rough on it and never bashed it. It just finally went I guess. It lasted maybe 6-7 race days. Kind of annoying when you spend $50 for a paintjob and the body falls apart. Think they'd replace it with this much use on it? I may order another and try the longer holes. That, or I may try the Proline Bulldog. Is it any better durability wise? I just can't afford to be replacing bodies like this all the time under normal use.
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Old 09-27-2011, 10:11 PM   #26
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Default punisher for rc8t ce

i had the same problem with the punisher body from my rc8t championship edition kit., and it cracked around the cab and just behind the cab around where the engine cooling head is. the body had maybe 5 runs on it and then i noticed the crack. i emailed jconcepts and they took care of it right away there costomer service is great. thank you jconcepts.

but from what it sounds like on here this is not a common spot for this body to crack.?
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Old 09-27-2011, 10:25 PM   #27
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Default Mugen Hi flow Illusion is the best...

I really like the toughness of the hi flow illusion body, first, it don't look like an el camino.....second it's really thick, but I did go back and put shoe goo on the area below the engine head, and that's it. It's lasted longer than any other body I've had....Sometimes buying the latest body ain't the best way to go.....I like things to last....

Oh yeah when cutting out the liquid mask be careful to avoid making too deep of a cut. I had one section crack but shoe goo fixed it.....Just give it time to dry.....and don't smear the whole body with it, you end up with a 10 ton body.....Just the areas like body posts and the engine cutout....or around the pipe for example....If it still flexes too much go back with a little more...
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Old 09-27-2011, 10:31 PM   #28
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Kyosho makes a lexan repair gel. It comes in a sheet as a soft gel and you cut strips off and apply to cracks. You then put it in sunlight for 30 minutes and it hardens and becomes better than the original body. Ever since I bought a couple of sheets my lids last twice as long. It's about $15 a sheet but worth every penny.
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Old 09-27-2011, 11:13 PM   #29
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no this is a puniher body from a rc8t ce kit not the high flow body. this is the one that looks like a el camino. lol
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Old 09-28-2011, 12:36 AM   #30
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I have had one crack on the third run around the front post a 6 inch long crack never have I had one crack there I always make the holes oversized guess I need to just call Jconcepts
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