wriffwraff

I set my truggy up with full droop and zero down stop. I'm wondering if this will hurt or stress the shock shafts? The front shocks are inner-most hole on the arm and outer-most, lower hole on the tower. The rears are middle hole on the rear arm and outer-most, upper hole on the tower. I'm not worried about the rear as much b/c it appears that the chassis itself will stop full shock compression at the rear. Up travel doesn't fully compress them and the chassis bottoms out b4 the shocks do. The front it's a different story, so that's my primary concern... the shocks can fully compress, b4 the front chassis hit's the ground. Again, I'm wondering if full droop without any down stop screws applied to the chassis will damage the shock shafts on hard landings (?) I'm contemplating full droop to maximize traction and zero droop screws to spare the chassis of the droop screws, as they tend to gouge the chassis.

C.Harper

iTrader: (3)

yes, you will be pulling the shock past its limits and risk blowing it out

JAMMINKRAZY

iTrader: (17)

Bad idea!!

wriffwraff

Pulling or compressing the shock past it's limits? You said pulling... if so, please explain further?

looper

iTrader: (19)

the droop screw limits downtravel for two very important reasons.

one it aids in setup so you can set up the amount of travel for various track conditions.

two and most important it stops the arm travelling down to the point where the shock would be subject to yanking pressure at full extension. when it goes to the point where the shock itself is stopping the downtravel stress is put on everything in between the screws. you could at the least pop a shock end off the shaft, or at the most rip the cap off of it and strip the shock body in the process. whatever damaged parts are created in this will need to be replaced.

ScottyM

iTrader: (27)

I run full droop on my D8 & D8T, but I use the droop screws. Running no screws is a bad idea.. Also you will need to check the droop before each time out to keep stress off the shocks, as the chassis and/or bolts will wear..

Here is how I set my Tugg and Bugg for full droop. Tighten the screws down until you see the arms just start to raise.. This will take the stress off of the shocks, and should help prevent trouble.. It will still allow for full droop to be run, but won't stress the shocks themselves.. It is the easiest way to set droop too.. But measure each side and make sure they are equal. If not, and they won't be, adjust to make them equal..

wriffwraff

I've been reading about droop settings online today and decided to max out my droop for off-road conditions. This should help with traction... we'll see.

As far as the droop screws are concerned and given you guys knowledge, I guess I'll dial the screws back into the chassis to prevent any shock damage. Thanks again fellaz [I've rounded the droop screws with my dremel, so hopefully that'll help with the chassis gouge issue]

tc5 man

i dont know if this idea works for hot bodies, mugen etc but on a losi the easyest way to measure, the droop is with a capilar. from the top of the shock mount screw, to the bottom screw on the shock.

looper

iTrader: (19)

I run a jammin buggy and i found the best droop screws are the associated ones. they are like the 4mm button head screws in shape but they are machined for wrenches on both ends, put the button head towards the chassis, the decrease in chassis wear is very much worth the price.


here is a link to them

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...T-Droop-Screws

jmaxey51

iTrader: (7)

on my jammins i never even ran the droop screws. but on my HB i run them in the front because the length of the shock. also on the O'donnell buggy you have to run them in the front or it will break she shocks. i have a cen matrix buggy laying around and a i had a cen matrix truggy and there was no need for the droop screw, it worked way better with them out or flush with the arms. but it all depends on your buggy or truggy.

mblgjr

iTrader: (86)

I've run various chassis without front droop screws with no failures (Mugen, Jammin', Ofna).

Always needed to limit the rear though.

Rounding the screws helps 99% of the gouging issue, so you should be ok now since you already did that.

ScottyM

iTrader: (27)

I had heard of these but couldn't remember what company.. Thanks..

merdith6

iTrader: (3)

I ran a kyosho 777 with no droop screws, my 808 don't need them either, the only buggy that broke shock ends was a Losi. I hate droop screws, never use em. If I want to change droop I put spacers in the shocks.....Much better and easier to keep the shocks equal.....Mugen is tough too. No issues...

wriffwraff

Quote:

Originally Posted by jmaxey51

i had a cen matrix truggy and there was no need for the droop screw, it worked way better with them out or flush with the arms.

Interesting note jmax. Truth be known, in the past, I too have run without the droop screws. Do you think it's b/c the shock lengths are equal to or more than the max down travel on the Cen truggy?

In my initial posting, I was actually concerned with the up travel or max compression of the front shock as it relates to shock shaft bends. It's not an issue on the rear b/c the shock doesn't fully compress b/c it's in the upper shock tower hole. It can't fully compress in that position. The chassis hits prior to full compression in the rear.

However, the front shock up travel is a bit different b/c I have them in the lower hole to increase front ride height and to increase or force more down travel in the front. My hope there is to increase on power steering. Nonetheless, when I fully compress the front end, it feels as if the shocks themselves are "slightly" stopping the front, prior to the chassis hitting the ground. So, that's my concern... I'm concerned that the up travel there might bend or stress the front shock shafts b/c the shocks are absorbing the brunt of the impact or compression prior to the chassis slap. Hey, but then again, maybe that's the way it's suppose to work. I mean, in the end, it appears that the chassis stops full compression or up travel. If I get a chance I'll post back a YouTube video to show what I'm talking about.

Plus, I'm like Meredith, I hate droop screws b/c they bite into my $100.00 BCE chassis. We'll see though... I'm in the minority here with my thoughts and experience on running without them. I'll test and see if I can continue to get away with it on my next track run. Again, from what I can tell, it's the full compression of the up travel of the front shocks that might pose an issue. The down travel seems fine, as I really don't see how the down travel of the arm could rip the shock out of the mount... I say that b/c the shocks are longer than the down travel reach on my rig

Looper: The Cen uses 5 mm droop screws, so aftermarket's won't work.

PS: Also, what are the droop screws truely for? Do they adjust the arm levels or do they keep the shocks from breaking or do they serve both?

looper

iTrader: (19)

ahh okay well these fit into 4mm holes looking at the various online shops it is stated that they are 3mm this is not correct they fit 4mm holes and may be an imperial comparable size