R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro Off-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 04-25-2010, 01:21 PM   #1
Tech Adept
 
wriffwraff's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 131
Default Full Droop without Down Stop Screws Set-up(?)

I set my truggy up with full droop and zero down stop. I'm wondering if this will hurt or stress the shock shafts? The front shocks are inner-most hole on the arm and outer-most, lower hole on the tower. The rears are middle hole on the rear arm and outer-most, upper hole on the tower. I'm not worried about the rear as much b/c it appears that the chassis itself will stop full shock compression at the rear. Up travel doesn't fully compress them and the chassis bottoms out b4 the shocks do. The front it's a different story, so that's my primary concern... the shocks can fully compress, b4 the front chassis hit's the ground. Again, I'm wondering if full droop without any down stop screws applied to the chassis will damage the shock shafts on hard landings (?) I'm contemplating full droop to maximize traction and zero droop screws to spare the chassis of the droop screws, as they tend to gouge the chassis.
__________________
Cen Matrix TR Arena | BCE Chassis Conversion | 50T Spur
Novarossi S21P5XLT Engine | Dynamite 053 Exhaust
JRZ9000T Throttle & Brake | Hitec 5955 Steering | Futaba 4PK

Last edited by wriffwraff; 04-25-2010 at 01:50 PM.
wriffwraff is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2010, 01:32 PM   #2
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 316
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

yes, you will be pulling the shock past its limits and risk blowing it out
C.Harper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2010, 01:37 PM   #3
Tech Champion
 
JAMMINKRAZY's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Pittsburgh PA
Posts: 6,575
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by C.Harper View Post
yes, you will be pulling the shock past its limits and risk blowing it out
Bad idea!!
__________________
-Koby Kubrin-
Thanks to my Sponsors:
Serpent America | Team Novarossi | Desoto Racing | Race AKA | Ridgeway Bodies
JAMMINKRAZY is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2010, 01:52 PM   #4
Tech Adept
 
wriffwraff's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 131
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by C.Harper View Post
yes, you will be pulling the shock past its limits and risk blowing it out
Pulling or compressing the shock past it's limits? You said pulling... if so, please explain further?
__________________
Cen Matrix TR Arena | BCE Chassis Conversion | 50T Spur
Novarossi S21P5XLT Engine | Dynamite 053 Exhaust
JRZ9000T Throttle & Brake | Hitec 5955 Steering | Futaba 4PK
wriffwraff is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2010, 02:00 PM   #5
Tech Elite
 
looper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: DFW area of Texas
Posts: 2,224
Trader Rating: 19 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to looper
Default

the droop screw limits downtravel for two very important reasons.

one it aids in setup so you can set up the amount of travel for various track conditions.

two and most important it stops the arm travelling down to the point where the shock would be subject to yanking pressure at full extension. when it goes to the point where the shock itself is stopping the downtravel stress is put on everything in between the screws. you could at the least pop a shock end off the shaft, or at the most rip the cap off of it and strip the shock body in the process. whatever damaged parts are created in this will need to be replaced.
__________________
Looped Designs Paintwerks
http://ldpaint.webs.com/ Email: Looped.designs@gmail.com
looper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2010, 02:12 PM   #6
Tech Elite
 
ScottyM's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Miami OK
Posts: 3,149
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Default

I run full droop on my D8 & D8T, but I use the droop screws. Running no screws is a bad idea.. Also you will need to check the droop before each time out to keep stress off the shocks, as the chassis and/or bolts will wear..

Here is how I set my Tugg and Bugg for full droop. Tighten the screws down until you see the arms just start to raise.. This will take the stress off of the shocks, and should help prevent trouble.. It will still allow for full droop to be run, but won't stress the shocks themselves.. It is the easiest way to set droop too.. But measure each side and make sure they are equal. If not, and they won't be, adjust to make them equal..
__________________
Scott Musgrave
ScottyM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2010, 02:39 PM   #7
Tech Adept
 
wriffwraff's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 131
Default

I've been reading about droop settings online today and decided to max out my droop for off-road conditions. This should help with traction... we'll see.

As far as the droop screws are concerned and given you guys knowledge, I guess I'll dial the screws back into the chassis to prevent any shock damage. Thanks again fellaz [I've rounded the droop screws with my dremel, so hopefully that'll help with the chassis gouge issue]
__________________
Cen Matrix TR Arena | BCE Chassis Conversion | 50T Spur
Novarossi S21P5XLT Engine | Dynamite 053 Exhaust
JRZ9000T Throttle & Brake | Hitec 5955 Steering | Futaba 4PK

Last edited by wriffwraff; 04-25-2010 at 09:29 PM.
wriffwraff is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2010, 04:10 PM   #8
Tech Prophet
 
tc5 man's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: levittown pa
Posts: 16,873
Default

i dont know if this idea works for hot bodies, mugen etc but on a losi the easyest way to measure, the droop is with a capilar. from the top of the shock mount screw, to the bottom screw on the shock.
tc5 man is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2010, 07:03 PM   #9
Tech Elite
 
looper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: DFW area of Texas
Posts: 2,224
Trader Rating: 19 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to looper
Default

I run a jammin buggy and i found the best droop screws are the associated ones. they are like the 4mm button head screws in shape but they are machined for wrenches on both ends, put the button head towards the chassis, the decrease in chassis wear is very much worth the price.


here is a link to them

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...T-Droop-Screws
__________________
Looped Designs Paintwerks
http://ldpaint.webs.com/ Email: Looped.designs@gmail.com
looper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2010, 07:17 PM   #10
Tech Elite
 
jmaxey51's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Athens, GA
Posts: 3,917
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

on my jammins i never even ran the droop screws. but on my HB i run them in the front because the length of the shock. also on the O'donnell buggy you have to run them in the front or it will break she shocks. i have a cen matrix buggy laying around and a i had a cen matrix truggy and there was no need for the droop screw, it worked way better with them out or flush with the arms. but it all depends on your buggy or truggy.
jmaxey51 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2010, 10:20 PM   #11
Tech Elite
 
mblgjr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: AL
Posts: 2,175
Trader Rating: 86 (100%+)
Default

I've run various chassis without front droop screws with no failures (Mugen, Jammin', Ofna).

Always needed to limit the rear though.

Rounding the screws helps 99% of the gouging issue, so you should be ok now since you already did that.
__________________
Team Associated Reedy JConcepts.net FusionX USA
mblgjr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2010, 10:26 PM   #12
Tech Elite
 
ScottyM's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Miami OK
Posts: 3,149
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by looper View Post
I run a jammin buggy and i found the best droop screws are the associated ones. they are like the 4mm button head screws in shape but they are machined for wrenches on both ends, put the button head towards the chassis, the decrease in chassis wear is very much worth the price.


here is a link to them

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...T-Droop-Screws
I had heard of these but couldn't remember what company.. Thanks..
__________________
Scott Musgrave
ScottyM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2010, 10:55 PM   #13
Tech Elite
 
merdith6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Brazoria, TX
Posts: 2,350
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default It depends on the buggy...

I ran a kyosho 777 with no droop screws, my 808 don't need them either, the only buggy that broke shock ends was a Losi. I hate droop screws, never use em. If I want to change droop I put spacers in the shocks.....Much better and easier to keep the shocks equal.....Mugen is tough too. No issues...
__________________
Mad Dog drives a Mugen MBX-7, Novarossi engines, Clockwork Racing, Futaba radio, AKA/Proline Tires
merdith6 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2010, 12:14 PM   #14
Tech Adept
 
wriffwraff's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 131
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jmaxey51 View Post
i had a cen matrix truggy and there was no need for the droop screw, it worked way better with them out or flush with the arms.
Interesting note jmax. Truth be known, in the past, I too have run without the droop screws. Do you think it's b/c the shock lengths are equal to or more than the max down travel on the Cen truggy?

In my initial posting, I was actually concerned with the up travel or max compression of the front shock as it relates to shock shaft bends. It's not an issue on the rear b/c the shock doesn't fully compress b/c it's in the upper shock tower hole. It can't fully compress in that position. The chassis hits prior to full compression in the rear.

However, the front shock up travel is a bit different b/c I have them in the lower hole to increase front ride height and to increase or force more down travel in the front. My hope there is to increase on power steering. Nonetheless, when I fully compress the front end, it feels as if the shocks themselves are "slightly" stopping the front, prior to the chassis hitting the ground. So, that's my concern... I'm concerned that the up travel there might bend or stress the front shock shafts b/c the shocks are absorbing the brunt of the impact or compression prior to the chassis slap. Hey, but then again, maybe that's the way it's suppose to work. I mean, in the end, it appears that the chassis stops full compression or up travel. If I get a chance I'll post back a YouTube video to show what I'm talking about.

Plus, I'm like Meredith, I hate droop screws b/c they bite into my $100.00 BCE chassis. We'll see though... I'm in the minority here with my thoughts and experience on running without them. I'll test and see if I can continue to get away with it on my next track run. Again, from what I can tell, it's the full compression of the up travel of the front shocks that might pose an issue. The down travel seems fine, as I really don't see how the down travel of the arm could rip the shock out of the mount... I say that b/c the shocks are longer than the down travel reach on my rig

Looper: The Cen uses 5 mm droop screws, so aftermarket's won't work.

PS: Also, what are the droop screws truely for? Do they adjust the arm levels or do they keep the shocks from breaking or do they serve both?
__________________
Cen Matrix TR Arena | BCE Chassis Conversion | 50T Spur
Novarossi S21P5XLT Engine | Dynamite 053 Exhaust
JRZ9000T Throttle & Brake | Hitec 5955 Steering | Futaba 4PK

Last edited by wriffwraff; 04-26-2010 at 12:49 PM.
wriffwraff is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2010, 12:38 PM   #15
Tech Elite
 
looper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: DFW area of Texas
Posts: 2,224
Trader Rating: 19 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to looper
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by wriffwraff View Post


Interesting note jmax. Truth be known, in the past, I too have run without the droop screws. Do you think it's b/c the shock lengths are equal to or more than the max down travel on the Cen truggy?

In my initial posting, I was actually concerned with the up travel or max compression of the front shock as it relates to shock shaft bends. It's not an issue on the rear b/c the shock doesn't fully compress b/c it's in the upper shock tower hole. It can't fully compress in that position. The chassis hits prior to full compression in the rear.

However, the front shock up travel is a bit different b/c I have them in the lower hole to increase front ride height and to increase or force more down travel in the front. My hope there is to increase on power steering. Nonetheless, when I fully compress the front end, it feels as if the shocks themselves are "slightly" stopping the front, prior to the chassis hitting the ground. So, that's my concern... I'm concerned that the up travel there might bend or stress the front shock shafts b/c the shocks are absorbing the brunt of the impact or compression prior to the chassis slap. Hey, but then again, maybe that's the way it's suppose to work. I really don't know fer' sure. If I get a chance I'll post back a YouTube video to show what I'm talking about.

I'm like Meredith, I hate droop screws b/c they bite into my $100.00 BCE chassis. We'll see though... I'm in the minority here with my thoughts and experience on running without them. I'll test and see if I can continue to get away with it on my next track run. Again, from what I can tell, it's the full compression of the up travel of the front shocks that might pose an issue. The down travel seems fine, as I really don't see how the down travel of the arm could rip the shock out of the mount... I say that b/c the shocks are longer than the down travel on my rig

Looper: The Cen uses 5 mm droop screws, so aftermarket's wont' work.
ahh okay well these fit into 4mm holes looking at the various online shops it is stated that they are 3mm this is not correct they fit 4mm holes and may be an imperial comparable size
__________________
Looped Designs Paintwerks
http://ldpaint.webs.com/ Email: Looped.designs@gmail.com

Last edited by looper; 04-26-2010 at 12:45 PM. Reason: checked my facts and corrected the message
looper is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Team Magic G4 Motorman Nitro On-Road 11759 12-09-2016 05:09 AM
FOR THE NEWBIES!!! IF YOU ARE NEW READ THIS omaharich Electric On-Road 54 01-18-2007 01:32 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 05:17 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net