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Old 03-17-2010, 05:37 PM   #16
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Thanks for all the reply's guys. looks like some realy good services out there. I can't wait to run my first tank of the season, gotta shake off some rust.
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Old 03-17-2010, 06:44 PM   #17
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I charge $15.00 to resize a sleeve, return shipping included in the Usa. 99% of the time it is on it's way back the next day. I feel like I have the best equipment out there, more similar to the Bmr tooling. I also check the bushing on the rod with a bore guage and let you know the size.

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Old 03-18-2010, 04:52 PM   #18
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I actually didn't answer your original post, yes I do service the whole motor also and do have a Hudy bench to break in motors. I do not usually break in used motors I resize the sleeve's on. I try to get the pinch about like the motors are with a gallon on them, any tighter and it's a waste.

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Old 03-18-2010, 05:50 PM   #19
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Default Alan Burton "The Speed Shop" top notch service

I was in your same position a few weeks back. A friend recommended Alan Burton at "The Speed Shop" to do my OS Speed .21. They do awesome work and turn around time was super fast. He did pinch, installed new rod, new bearings and broke it in. I ran it at Pschyno NItro Blast for 1st time and it ran flawless. It never flamed out and got over 10min run time at 230 degrees. I have almost gal through it and it runs like a champ. I would recommend these guys in a heartbeat!!

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Old 03-18-2010, 09:11 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ABURTON View Post
Ray, why is it killing you? With all due respect your way is not the only way to do things. I wish you the best in your business and you will never hear me be negative on someone elses services, its bad business.

My resizes are done with a BMR tool. One of the best out there. It's not yours but it's used by many of the worlds best racers. It too offers a very good service. It's simple and made for the serious racer to use in the shop or hotel.

The bench method can do the same thing as running on the ground. For someone in my position it's safer. No worries of a flipped over engine, run away, etc. I can also perform services while others are snowed in or have temps to cold to run them. Then the customer can get the engine and run it on the ground with a lot of the hard work gone. I do this on my personal engines and it has always done well.

Good Luck Ray, you offer a great service and people understand that. In business you will always have someone who offers as good or better services. It's simple competition.
Allen (and who ever else was interested in why is bench breaking a resized engine is killing me.) And Sorry for the delay but yesterday my girls birthday, and I didn't dare spend time on the computer. Bench break in a resized piston + sleeve is simply wasted fuel and not necessary if any accuracy is provided in resizing work. Along with engine original break in many changes occur the alloy composition , primarily in with the piston+sleeve set. And since this is a resizing thread related topic along with rebreakin issues I will focus on such. FIRST Your original break in of piston + sleeve set is that of these parts being in most all cases Not stress relieved.These machined parts are very brittle a new piston + sleeve set. Using the heat cycle break in method is that of what is best to stress relieve these machined parts.NEXT, The first engine break in the piston + sleeve go thru a burnishing process that which work hardens these alloys , and while may be most time consuming part the engine break in, once complete these alloys become very resilient for the entire life piston + sleeve set. Quite of few guys here will have experienced piston failure their new freshly broken in engine , and will agree it more often than not happened before the first gallon. In addition, the cylinder wall thickness will diminish slightly, along with liner chrome plating surface finish cross hatching polished out while piston diameter reduces in size slightly during lapping/matting process. Now you have put a gallon or more fuel thru your engine with we hope you got you past at least 90% the initial metal pinch, the metallurgical changes described have totally changed the piston+sleeve sets alloy composition, resulted IF your break in was overly rich / didn't bring the temps up, the tightness in your engine will remain longer than should have.****** An additional note here is as the gallons burn, one then two then three gallons running the sleeve will become even more resilient (you had better hope the piston broke down addiquitly and lapped into cylinder bore) and will establish a memory characteristic ,becoming springy like. *******We only want to do a new engine break in once and go 10, 12 or more gallons, which my opinion is if maintained well is not with unreasonable expectations....with changing a conrod / bearings along the way of course.

I tried to be brief so far but elaborated where I thought might be helpful to readers here interested in my prospective a piston + sleeve sets metallurgical changes during a new engine break in, with hopes it help some understand better why resizing accuracy (an already broken in engine) is essential and does not warrant a rebreakin more than a few heat cycles and a few easy tanks on track just for stress relief resized / reformed sleeve. With that said, I am referencing my own resizing tooling performance as it is designed to reconstruct the sleeve by tearing the sleeve alloy molecules from one state and reconstructing to another. This both in theory and performance removes the memory characteristic pointed out above , and very nicely holds its new form / structure for many gallons extended new engine life and longevity. This is supported by 9 plus years RC Nitro Engine Reconditioning-Resizing R+D and a modest number of racers around the globe. As for any other tooling or resizing methods out there if it cant be seen online by picture or Google search it either does not exist or isn't much there to talk about.

If it appearing that I am being negative here , I do not mean to be. I am in the business of alloys reconstruction for quit a while and work at a slightly different playground of business than most. http://i772.photobucket.com/albums/y...g/IMG00080.jpg I hope I do not need to anny up the number of years experience or dollars worth machinery and tooling applied to this RC business

RayAracing








PS, When the competition gets as good if not better than me mabee they can take care of a few these jobs below


USA 3-15-10

Ray,

I just mailed out an os speed piston and sleeve. I need to have you work your magic on. It is slightly over pinched and out of round. I picked it up from a guy at the track because I knew you could fix it. I just can not remember if there is an extra charge to fix the over pinch. Also I did not specify your magical race pinch please.

Australia 3-15-10

SPECIFIED ENGINE SIZES:

GO 25 P&S with modified exhaust timing. The sleeve runs with a 0.6mm shim to raise the port timing for an aircraft tuned pipe.

It is barely run in (about 1 litre of fuel used) but has poor compression. Looks to me like too much taper. See what you can do. I dont mind if its a bit tight after re-sizing.

By the way, thanks for your previous work. The results have bee excellent, the engines perform better than new!
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Old 03-19-2010, 02:04 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RayA View Post
As for any other tooling or resizing methods out there if it cant be seen online by picture or Google search it either does not exist or isn't much there to talk about.
I don't sell tooling to resize like you do so there is no need show pictures. As long as the motors run great that's all people care about. I do know of other people using the same process I do, so it does exist. I have seen your video and frankly don't understand how your tooling works. (It apparently works well)

Rex
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Sleeve resizing $15.00/ motor rebuild $30.00
Argus engine distributor/Avid bearings/ Alpha engines/
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