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Old 11-04-2004, 08:20 AM   #1426
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I did not know that Casper.....thank you for that!
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Old 11-04-2004, 10:13 AM   #1427
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Casper

Thanks for that tip. Taper pins seem to be really great to a point and then they let go. I imagine that positive camber also lets more of the middle bars contact the ground instead of just the inside pins.

Another question-

I need to replace my throttle servo and would rather not purchase one of the pricey airtronics 94357s. Do you have any recommendations as to the best torque/speed combo?

Thanks
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Old 11-04-2004, 12:24 PM   #1428
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Another thing on the pos camber is that I noticed that tire wear was decreased.

For trottle servo you cannot bet better then a 94737. It is a great throttle servo at .12sec and 70 in-oz of torque @ 6V. The Futaba 9202 is what I am running .21sec at 96 in-oz @6V. Both servo's are around $70. Speed and torque are not as important in a trottle servo and you do not need very much torque to stop a stadium truck.

I would not worry about speed but get torque in the 70 in-oz or greater range.
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Old 11-04-2004, 01:40 PM   #1429
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Aaron or Casper. I run on a very high bite indoor track, we run slicks, the clay is very tacky and the track is very smooth with some medium size jumps. I have a good setup now, but i was wondering if the increased positive camber, and a few other adjustments could help to give the truck a more aggressive, loose but controlable feel to get faster lap times. Thanks for any help you can give me, Brian Miskolczi.
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Old 11-04-2004, 02:02 PM   #1430
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It does not cost anything to try this. I have heard lots of antisquat work well on those types of tracks but this can be hard with the GEN II tranny. You need to shave the hinge pins so they do not rub on the outdrives to get more then 3-4 deg of antisquat. Try the camber change and see how you like it. All else fails you make a couple turns and put the camber back!
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Old 11-04-2004, 02:28 PM   #1431
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AARON, I DIDN'T REALIZE YOU HAD OBTAINED SUCH A STATUS, YOUR VERY OWN THREAD. NICE TO SEE YOU GIVING SO MUCH GOOD ADVICE. ANY PLANS ON RUNNING THE REGION 12 RACE?

CASPER, WHAT ABOUT YOU AND RYAN ANY PLANS FOR REGION 12?
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Old 11-04-2004, 02:32 PM   #1432
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Ryan will be in Vegas. I will be on business travel all next week so I think I will have to pass. I would really like to race it but I do not think I will be in town for it. Ryan and I are going to Titus on Sat to race to practice for the JBRL.
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Old 11-04-2004, 02:33 PM   #1433
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For throttle in my gas truck I run a jr 590m servo. Its metal gear, 85 oz and .15 tranit time and about $40 bucks. Can't beat it in my book. Also, havent had any problems so far either.
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Old 11-04-2004, 03:42 PM   #1434
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I have a forty minute main comming up, I currently run a 1100 vennom receivor pack, will it last??





TIA
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Old 11-04-2004, 03:47 PM   #1435
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No problem. Just make sure it is fully charged before your main.
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Old 11-04-2004, 04:52 PM   #1436
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Aaron,How Is the center of gravity on the ad2?
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Old 11-04-2004, 05:22 PM   #1437
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No reason to run a spring AND fuel tubing. When the spring is very close to being compressed it is already very stiff and acting like fuel tubing; adding tubing in there just takes up adjustment room.

Todd - Casper's post was dead-on. Adding washers will smooth out steering and help keep the front end flatter (less camber change). Removing washers will give you more aggressive steering and the front end will feel softer (the tire will also have more camber change). There really isn't much effect with respect to being on- or off-power.

Positive camber in the rear has the same effect of making the camber link longer; it keeps the rear end flatter when cornering, which puts more pressure on the tire and creates more sidebite. The inside (inweighted) tire now has more rubber on the ground and can offer more traction.

SoFast-NT - The new truck is really good. Everything sits very low.

D Mac - 45 minutes should be no problem.

Lane - Shane and Troy suckered me into doing this..haha. I'm not sure if we're going to Titus; we have the Gas Regionals left still this year.

Brian - In addition to the extra anti-squat, here's a few other things to try:

Move your rear hubs forward. Run the outside hole on the front bulkhead with no washers to give your car the most steering. (You may also want to dial in 1/2 or 1 degree of toe-out to make the truck even more aggressive).

When I want my cars to be aggressive, I want the rear end to follow the front end instead of sliding around the corner. Positive rear camber won't really make the truck want to swing around corners but you should be able to rail around them quickly. Try short rear arms if you want less overall side-bite.
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Old 11-04-2004, 06:33 PM   #1438
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actually, at rest, the brake spring is partially compressed. i dont use the full range of braking, just a little for slowing down, and then for slamming on the brakes. the tubing makes the throw from soft braking to a full lockup a bit shorter. but actually, i put on a whole new linkage assembly tonight and im going to run it stock to see if i like it.

its not a huge difference, but ive found it does make snapping the brakes a bit easier. maybe its just me.

aaron, i got a good question for you. when people talk about making thier suspensions more "progressive", what does that mean? how does laying down or standing up your shock positions affect the handling of the truck?
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Old 11-04-2004, 07:02 PM   #1439
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When referring to a more progressive suspension, it means that the shock feels stiffer as the arm travels through its range of motion.

Laying the shock down will make it more progressive, while standing it up will make it more linear.
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Old 11-04-2004, 08:50 PM   #1440
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Quote:
Originally posted by Aaron Waldron
When I want my cars to be aggressive, I want the rear end to follow the front end instead of sliding around the corner. Positive rear camber won't really make the truck want to swing around corners but you should be able to rail around them quickly. Try short rear arms if you want less overall side-bite.
That sounds pretty dialed! Why doesn't everybody run posative camber then?
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