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Old 11-02-2004, 10:33 PM   #1411
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I am a decent driver who can turn good lap times but I run into problems when I miss the apex of a corner (to early or late) and this seems to throw me off for a lap (you miss one corner you are out of position for the next ect) this costs time so I guess my question is what do you do to recover your race line after you make a mistake?
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Old 11-02-2004, 10:41 PM   #1412
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CMAIN...funny user name
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Old 11-02-2004, 11:36 PM   #1413
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What's up Rich?

mafia - Your brake shouldn't really be what's keeping your truck from creeping forward. Your idle should be low enough so the truck isn't trying to move significantly. If your truck loads up and dies at idle after a few minutes that's perfectly fine.

The U.S. team was told that chairs would not be allowed in the pits because they'd block the aisles in case of fire, but we turned out being the only team told that..everyone else sat in chairs all week.

cmain - A major part of becoming a substantially faster driver is disciplining your driving skills such that you won't blow by the apex of a corner, because yes..on some tracks, one corner can make or break a half a lap (or more).

If I do blow a corner (happens more than I'd like to admit to..hahaha), I will try my best to head back into the racing line where I would have exited the corner had I hit it correctly, and pay special attention to make it through the following corner correctly to get back into a ryhtym.
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Old 11-03-2004, 07:00 AM   #1414
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Aaron,

Do you run the springs on your brake and throttle shafts or or fuel tubing? The new issue of Xtreme RC has a whole section on how to set brakes adn every picture has fuel tubing instead of springs. Whats your take on this?

Idle cont:....so, when you fire up your engine, do you listen for a constant idle tone? like no wave or ripple of rpm? Or is it OK for a little fluctuation in rpm?

Thanks!
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Old 11-03-2004, 08:17 AM   #1415
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A little bit of fluctuation is fine. When your engine is tuned correctly, your idle will sound a bit high at first, but will drop when the engine warms up.

You must use a spring on the throttle linkage of the XXX-NT because that extra space is needed for the servo to travel far enough to engage the brake. I run the spring on my brake linkage because I think it gives the brake more of a linear feel.
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Old 11-03-2004, 08:22 AM   #1416
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OK, got it...when I put the whole car back together, I'll mell around with the idle needle. Right now, I'm jsut worried about getting the brake and idle set correctly. I'm confident I'll get it.

thanks!
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Old 11-03-2004, 10:14 AM   #1417
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i use a spring on my throttle to give the brake room to travel, but on the brake i use fuel tubing AND a spring. the reason i use both is just like aaron said, the spring gives the brake a more linear, and smoother actuation. when the spring ends and the fuel tubing begins it grabs pretty hard, which i make great use of snapping the car around in corners. i have brakes when i need them, but i also have the ability to lock the brakes almost instantly if i enter a corner too fast. it also helps not to enter corners too fast lol
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Old 11-03-2004, 12:08 PM   #1418
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Ok....so I'll run the springs on the throttle.

Beetle, the way you run it, do you put the spring nearest to the tower or the tubing nearest the tower? Reading your post, it sounds like you have a spring and tubing on the same side of the brake bar....I can't tell. On yours, do you have it as: tower, tubing, spring?

I think I'm worrying too much about this. HAHA! take a breather!

Thanks!
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Old 11-03-2004, 06:16 PM   #1419
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Aaron

How does adding and subtracting washers to the front camber link effect on and off power steering?

Please comment on the same changes to the rear link if I am running trinity hub carriers.

Thanks
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Old 11-03-2004, 06:27 PM   #1420
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mafia, i use the tubing and spring on the same side of the linkage. i slide on the spring, then tubing, then the retainer
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Old 11-03-2004, 06:38 PM   #1421
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Aaron will need to comment on this also but I look at washers like camber link lengths.

Adding washers in the front is like making the link longer.
Taking washers away is like making the link shorter.

It is just finer adjustments then changing the location. I reality you are changing the roll center of the car by moving the ball stud up and down.

The rear is the opposite since it is on the outside.

I cannot tell you if it will give more or less traction or steering since these changes react different depending on available traction. Aaron may be able to add more to this.

For setups check out my setup sheet for dummies on my web site

http://home.socal.rr.com/casper04

and then go to info sheets or go to the direct link:

http://home.socal.rr.com/casper04/Setup_stuff.doc

It is not perfect but it usually gets you going in the right direction. I am working on revising it some to make it easier to read but most all the info is there.
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Old 11-03-2004, 06:47 PM   #1422
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Casper

I see that you like 1 degree of POSITVIE camber in the rear on blue-grove. Why?
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Old 11-04-2004, 07:05 AM   #1423
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I'm not sure why...but blue-groove tracks generally have soo much traction that you can run that kind of camber. posative will have the rear end loose traction and swing a bit more allowing you to bring the back end around more easily. But I run between 1 and 0 deg negative all the time.
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Old 11-04-2004, 07:41 AM   #1424
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i set mine so the rear tires point in then i dont touch it until i need to replace the turnbuckle or rod end lol
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Old 11-04-2004, 08:09 AM   #1425
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Pos camber makes or lets the inside tire work harder. This seems to give the rear end a more consistant feel. The rear end does not seem to step out when it looses traction like it will with neg camber. I have just noticed the car is easier to drive this way and if the back end does step out it is more controlable to drift then to have it swap ends. This only works on high bite smooth tracks. Positive camber and bumpy corners mean traction rolls!
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