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Old 11-01-2004, 10:41 AM   #1381
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Aaron:

I have been racing my Drake for about 2.5 years and know what tires work well on that truck. However, after taking a break from electric for about 10 years, I had to break down and get an MF2.

Tires and foam setup are 90% of the tuning on gas trucks. However, do you find that you use just as many tire and foam combinations on your electric mod truck? What are your favorite front setups and rear setups?

Thanks!

PS. Stay away from that candy. It will cost you about 3 tenths on any track if you don't!
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Old 11-01-2004, 11:27 AM   #1382
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Beetle - If Sonics work well, you might want to try King Pins. They should last a little longer due to the differences in rubber.

mafia - I rarely, if EVER, change compounds. I will start with soft foam and go harder until I found out what works best. Lately, I have been using PL two-stage foam at any tracks that are too fast for stock Losi firm foam.

todd - Usually what works on gas truck, works on electric truck. I usually always use stock Losi firm foam in my front tires, and run Losi Red Directionals unless I find they give me too much steering. I like Silver Taper Pins on blue groove tracks, and Pro-Line M2 Edges on rough and blown-out tracks.

Rear tires, I like Red Step pins or Red Studs with Losi firm at loamy tracks (sometimes Red IFMAR Pins). I'll use Red T-Bones sometimes with PL two-stage at blown out tracks, and PL two-stage or Bomb One Gray in Red Taper Pins.
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Old 11-01-2004, 12:41 PM   #1383
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Aaron:

I race a lot at HRH. On tuesday nights they run the track wet. As you know, it is hardpacked. Will silver or red directionals give me more steering on a wet track?

Pro-line M3 Bowties are the tire of choice unless the tracks is really good, then Hole Shot M3 work the best. Have you found that T-Bones work similar to Bowties? I would rather stay with Losi rubber if possible.
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Old 11-01-2004, 02:31 PM   #1384
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Reptiles can work at the same places Bow-Ties do..it can be hard to compare Pro-Line and Losi tires because of the differences in Rubber.

I've had good luck running IFMAR Pins and Studs at Hot Rod when it's wet. Red fronts will have more steering when there is no loam, but silvers will give you more steering when the track is very soft.
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Old 11-01-2004, 04:36 PM   #1385
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Aaron,

How important is it to thread-lock your engine into the chassis? The reason I ask is because I recently broke my wrench trying to take out the engine mount screws from the chassis. Seriouesly, I was turning, harder and harder then the bit actually broke inside the wrench handle. I'm too afraid to use my new wrenches on the engine screws any more....I've resorted to a fat dremmel hole and a very large "craftsman" (oh yeah!) flathead to take it out. Should I use a different thread lock? I'm using Tamiya, and I know it isn't "threadlock."

So....do I really need to thread lock my engine?...or just use a diferent brand threadlock?

Thanks!
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Old 11-01-2004, 04:58 PM   #1386
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Yes threadlock is necessary. I use any blue threadlock I have on hand. You don't need to tighten them down with extreme force though.

I slot all my chassis screws with a dremel. Much easier to be able to get them out with one flat blade screwdriver.
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Old 11-01-2004, 06:44 PM   #1387
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In my experience I have not noticed that the reptile works well if loose dirt. It actually works pretty well the drier and harder the track gets. The looser the track is the worse the reptile works but that is just my experience.

You do not need very much lok tite to keep the screws in place. I just put a small drop on the screws about every 2-3 installations. The sonics are pretty awsome tires. I would try the B compound rubber to see if they last a little longer. I think the T-bone may be a good tire if they track is a little loose. The King pin does not have very tall pins and will not dig all that well in the loose places but I would give them a shot. Losi rubber does last longer them most others.
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Old 11-01-2004, 07:56 PM   #1388
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Quote:
You do not need very much lok tite to keep the screws in place. I just put a small drop on the screws about every 2-3 installations.
Every 2-3?? Do you run electric? I use loctite everytime I remove a bolt that goes into metal. Especially motor mount bolts. But yes, just a dot.
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Old 11-01-2004, 08:37 PM   #1389
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yeah my motor will rattle loose in about 30 mins at the track if i dont use loctite every time.

slotting the screws is probably not the best idea in the world. when i got my truck 2 of the tranny mount screws were slotted, and one of them broke taking it out a few weeks later
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Old 11-01-2004, 09:02 PM   #1390
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A drop eh?.....maybe thats it. I've been using like half the tube on every screw! oops!
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Old 11-01-2004, 10:33 PM   #1391
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I'm not sure why I said Reptiles even at all..that was one of those early morning forgot-to-proofread things..dumb Aaron

Loctite anything that threads into metal and CA anything that threads into plastic. Set for life!
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Old 11-01-2004, 11:43 PM   #1392
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Is the Team Infinity Samurai 521 engine good for 1/8 scale? How does it compair to other motors?
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Old 11-01-2004, 11:45 PM   #1393
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This is a picture of it.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 521_pipe_3.jpg (40.4 KB, 72 views)
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Old 11-01-2004, 11:58 PM   #1394
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I've never heard of that engine before, but I'm guessing from the looks of it, that it's Picco-based? If so it should be pretty good.

I couldn't find anything about that engine through Google or anything so I can't be too much help. Sorry!
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Old 11-02-2004, 03:43 AM   #1395
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AW

What temps you like running the Drake motor?, I find I need to keep it at around 250 to have any power, is this normal?


TIA
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