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Old 10-15-2004, 11:46 AM   #1171
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That module and reciever looks pretty dialed...are they available for sale yet?
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Old 10-15-2004, 12:01 PM   #1172
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for the hinge pins on the mf2 you might wanna use shock limiters, AE is better because they are easier to tell the sizes, i use limiters on my bk2, work great, but dont use to many you want a little room so it never binds up
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Old 10-15-2004, 12:20 PM   #1173
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Actually motor shims work really good. You can get them cheap and since they are metal they should not wear as bad as plastic shock spacers. When ever I have a motor go bad I take the shims out and put them in my tool box for this purpose.
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Old 10-15-2004, 12:45 PM   #1174
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ive used plastic spacers before with some success. they might even make plastic spacers just for that purpose. i however, slip about 1/8th inch of a fuel tubing over the hinge pin, put on the E clip (i assume these are the thinggies you refer to lol) and slide the pin through, clip it on the other end. ive found since doing it this way i NEVER find that im missing eclips in my rear arms after a run
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Old 10-16-2004, 01:09 AM   #1175
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Trinity sells a shim kit that's great for taking play out of suspension pieces.

jbrow - Shorter camber links allow more body roll. Longer camber links take away body roll.

O-Doggy - They will start selling sometime after the first of the year.
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Old 10-16-2004, 08:51 AM   #1176
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I think maybe we are talking about different things Aaron. From what I've read before, longer links have more roll, while keeping the roll center relatievly the same. Shorter links have less roll, but the roll center changes more as the chassis moves.

So a long link has more chassis roll, but a lower roll center.
Shorter link has less chassis roll, but a higher roll center.


Last edited by jbrow1; 10-16-2004 at 09:06 AM.
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Old 10-16-2004, 09:13 AM   #1177
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No, Less roll means more traction. Instead of the suspension giving the weight transfer pushes down on the outside tires!
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Old 10-16-2004, 09:39 AM   #1178
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check out this http://www.teamlosi.com/ManualsJPG/xxxbk/33.jpg and http://www.teamlosi.com/ManualsJPG/xxxbk/32.jpg look for the camber link stuff.
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Old 10-16-2004, 09:54 AM   #1179
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That's cool. And it is stating just the opposite of what I've been saying. And from what I've read before.

Last edited by jbrow1; 10-16-2004 at 12:14 PM.
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Old 10-16-2004, 03:28 PM   #1180
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The thing about a lot of these suspension changes is that they will not always work the same way everytime depeding on the tires, other suspension positions, tires and the track conditions. They are general observations. You need to test your car at your track to see how it reacts to different changes.
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Old 10-16-2004, 08:04 PM   #1181
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Hmmmmm.
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Old 10-17-2004, 07:15 AM   #1182
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if you guys want a great way to take out slop and reduce friction in your suspension joints, then you need to get some of my teflon motor washers i make. go to the for sale section for more details.
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Old 10-17-2004, 08:59 AM   #1183
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I brought my Novak xxl in from outside and took it out of my car and was gunna put it in a different car and the antenna wire just broke off right at the case. Can I fix it somehow or order a new wire or do I have to send it back to Novak?
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Old 10-17-2004, 09:16 AM   #1184
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Best fix is to send it back. But you can fix it yourself by either soldering the wire back on and covering with shrink wrap. Better to crack the case and solder it back on to the board. You're supposed to make the new wire the same length as the one it came with. But if it's only a bit shorter you should be ok.
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Old 10-17-2004, 02:25 PM   #1185
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Hi,
I need to know the final drive ratio for the Losi XXX-T RTR and MF.

I have Trinity P-94 15Turn in my XXX-T RTR and it is really nice with 18 and 19 Pinion.

I also got Reedy KR 12x1 for my new MF and it says they recommend 11.13 final drive ratio for that motor.
I just dont know what pinion to use. This is my first 12 turn motor so I really dont know what to expect in motor behaviour.
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