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Old 10-14-2004, 06:04 PM   #1156
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Arron are you running this thing too.



if so whats your opinion, revolutionary new r/c product or what.

If that thing is everything it claims to be, all the radio manufaturers can't be to pleased, one would think.

Anyway i can't wait for this thing to come out, just wanted your 2 cents???
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Old 10-14-2004, 06:16 PM   #1157
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Casper - I wonder if skin oil acts as kicker? haha

TCR - I haven't run those yet, but I've seen them being used.

It's the best idea and the greatest technological advancement introduced into the hobby in a long time. No more glitching, no more frequency conflicts, no more frequency clips, no more crystals, no more dials on synthesized equipment, no problems.
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Old 10-14-2004, 06:21 PM   #1158
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Quote:
Originally posted by Aaron Waldron
I dunno what glue you've been using but Losi glue works great!
pro line glue, i usually have to reglue 2 or 3 times per set of tires, depending on where im running. if im running at home on the gravel i have to reglue every day!

the LHS guy doesnt like it either but when he bought the shop he had a huge stock of it lol so he will get some good stuff when the stock gets low
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Old 10-14-2004, 06:35 PM   #1159
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Man the end of the year is here and everything is coming out.
I have been looking at the Spektrum and am really please they have included the KO radio. Got to have one of those babies..


CA is good for glueing you eye lid shut..LOL
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Old 10-14-2004, 06:39 PM   #1160
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beetle - That glue is your problem. Even the Pro-Line guys use Losi glue!
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Old 10-14-2004, 06:56 PM   #1161
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I just got a B3 in trade. Came with two matched nicad 2000 mah packs. I haven't done any electric in 15 yrs or so. How should you store nicads for any length of time? Charged? Discharged? Partial charge?
Thanks.
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Old 10-14-2004, 07:42 PM   #1162
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It should be better, if everything that they are claiming is true. But there is really no such thing as trouble free.
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Old 10-14-2004, 08:21 PM   #1163
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jbrow, im pretty sure you should charge nicds discharged, and nimh with a tiny bit of charge right?

im pretty sure its discharged, but let one of the experienced guys handle this. i dont wanna be responsible for killing your cells lol
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Old 10-14-2004, 09:08 PM   #1164
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Discharged and dead shorted.
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Old 10-14-2004, 09:13 PM   #1165
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see? thats what i said. how come noone believes me?

hey aaron i got a good "for the benefit of everyone" question for you... im sure alot of people know, but im equally sure most guys just pretend to know.

i understand the mechanics of what moving your rear camber link does to the rear tires through the range of suspension travel. with the camber links to the inside, your tires arc more as the suspension reaches full upward motion (pushing the car all the way till it scrapes the floor) and using an outside camber link keeps your tires a bit flatter through the range of motion. am i right so far?

so what situations would you want an inner rear camber link for, and why, and what would you want an outside rear camber link for, and why?

how is the equation changed by moving to an upper or lower hole?
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Old 10-14-2004, 10:02 PM   #1166
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Hey Aaron...

Being this is the "Ask Aaron Waldron" thread, I figured I could ask you something non-RC related as well...

Are you related to any Teachers? I realized that there's a teacher across the hall from my History class named Mr. Waldron...? Valhalla High School?
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Old 10-15-2004, 12:39 AM   #1167
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Gary - What were you referring to?

jbrow - Discharge them completely and dead-short them with an inline fuse.

A longer camber link tends to keep the car flatter, while a shorter camber link goes through the bumps better. A longer camber link will more the car more predictable and stable, while a shorter camber link makes the car react faster.

losifromhell - My aunt is a teacher here in Escondido and my grandma used to teach, but that's it as far as I know.

I did date a girl that went to Valhalla though...hahaha
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Old 10-15-2004, 05:48 AM   #1168
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Longer camber links allow more chassis roll too right. Meaning more weight (traction) on the outside tire in turns. So would be good to use on a slick track. Also I believe the more parallel it is with the a-arm lets chassis roll more.


Last edited by jbrow1; 10-15-2004 at 12:50 PM.
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Old 10-15-2004, 11:19 AM   #1169
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ahh excellent. i opted to go with a ball stud and cup rather than closed links on my rear camber link, i just couldnt get a smooth suspension action out of the closed links. the ball studs work MUCH smoother. the downside is i had to throw a couple small shims under the stud on the bulkhead to give the link clearance from the spring/shock, which effectively makes the link a tiny bit longer. but it will only make the rear end more stable, bring it on i say

thanks for the low down aaron and jbrow.
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Old 10-15-2004, 11:25 AM   #1170
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Does Losi make shims/spacers for use on the front and rear hinge pins on a MF2?

My truck seems to have a little too much horizontal play in the rear suspension. The rear arms have about 4mm of travel along the pin before contacting the hinge pin hold down "thingies" <-- technical
term!
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