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Old 10-08-2004, 09:12 AM   #1081
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Aaron-- Do you tap all your plastic parts with a 4-40 tap when you or you dad builds a car? I have an idea but just curious how many "pro" guys actually use a tap in there plastic parts when building.
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Old 10-08-2004, 09:43 AM   #1082
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Pretty much everything gets tapped. I know my dad tries to leave a little bit of the hole untapped and let the screw cut its own threads to help hold it tight, but everything does get some attention.
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Old 10-08-2004, 04:02 PM   #1083
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Quote:
Originally posted by Aaron Waldron

snikkari - I'd start with a 17 or 18 and go from there.
OK, Thanks Aaron, Ill do that, but what would you think would be the best starting point for a P-94 15x2 ?
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Old 10-08-2004, 04:47 PM   #1084
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casper,

i do what aaron does, tap the hole partially and let the screw thread the rest of the way, but i found a nifty way to speed it up if anyone is interested.

basically i found some 4-40 self drilling self tapping screws. basically the idea behind them is you put them in a 1/4" socket on a drill or electric screw driver, and they make their own hole in almost anything. great for sheet metal. i glue a 4-40 tapping screw into my electric screw driver, and sink it partially into the hole, then back out. makes very fast work of it, and the holes come out perfect every time

pls note that there is a difference between self drilling self tapping screws, and self tapping screws. self tappings screws do work, however ive found they dont always leave the most perfect threads behind. the self tappers have a tapered point, while the self drilling self tappers have straight threads and a drill point.
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Old 10-08-2004, 05:08 PM   #1085
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Wow I got a little dizzy reading that post about self drilling self taping self screwing things! LOL

Losi includes a taping screw which is like a tap in that it has releif cuts in the treads to acually cut threads with but I was just curious how many people actually take the time. I normally use this screw when I build a car but do not bother to tap whole when replacing arms and other worn out or broken parts when I rebuild
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Old 10-08-2004, 06:46 PM   #1086
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im sure the screw is similar in concept if not in construction.

the only reason i use self drilling self tapping screws is because they have a bolt style head to it that i can glue into a nut driver. when im done i heat up the driver and the screw and glue comes right out
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Old 10-09-2004, 07:56 AM   #1087
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Aaron-My Dad bought me a Airtronics M-8 two day ago,anyway what kind of servos do you use in your XXX-NT.
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Old 10-09-2004, 10:12 AM   #1088
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I use Airtronics servos as well..the 94357 for steering, and the 94737 for throttle.
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Old 10-09-2004, 12:08 PM   #1089
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Aaron I asked Gary this question on the mst post, maybe you could help me out. Why does the 4+1 toe in work better than the 3+2. on the xxxnt you guys run 3+2 or 3+1 right?
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Old 10-09-2004, 01:11 PM   #1090
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We run 3+1 on our Losi trucks. Using 4+1 as opposed to 3+2 puts the rear driveshafts at a greater angle, which increases friction in the outdrive and at the CV joint, which gives you more straightline traction.
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Old 10-09-2004, 02:36 PM   #1091
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Aaron what thrust bearing do you use in your cars? have you tried the skipgear thrust bearing the one that looks like the old losi thust and why doesen't losi make that thrust bearing anymore
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Old 10-09-2004, 02:46 PM   #1092
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I'm not too sure why Losi doesn't sell the caged bearing anymore..but it most likely had to do with production costs.

I use the stock thrust bearings in all of my differentials.
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Old 10-09-2004, 03:56 PM   #1093
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4+1 Also decreases the wheel base unless you change the hub spacing.
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Old 10-09-2004, 04:49 PM   #1094
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Can you plz answer my last question Aaron.

It was"What pinion size for Trinity P-94 15x2 with stock spur for Losi XXX-T MF".

Thanks
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Old 10-09-2004, 04:55 PM   #1095
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Ooops, sorry I missed that.

You might wanna try starting at a 19 or 20, and going from there. I've never run anything that high before so I'm not sure where to start.
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