Ask Aaron Waldron
10-07-2004, 12:17 PM
#1067
I've heard of people doing that..but I don't use WD-40.
I dump the excess in the tank out, and let the engine run itself dry. Put a few drops of after-run in it (through the glow plug hole; going through the carb can dry up the o-rings in the carb) and it's good to go.
I dump the excess in the tank out, and let the engine run itself dry. Put a few drops of after-run in it (through the glow plug hole; going through the carb can dry up the o-rings in the carb) and it's good to go.
10-07-2004, 12:58 PM
#1068
Would that setup be all red?
10-07-2004, 01:02 PM
#1069
http://www.teamlosi.com/pictures/jpe...std_adam03.jpg
That's what I run on my gas truck..at all times.
That's what I run on my gas truck..at all times.
10-07-2004, 01:08 PM
#1070
That is the setup i run except i use 40 wt oil in the front & rear.
10-07-2004, 01:11 PM
#1071
Sorry I didnt tell you my truck is a XXX-NT. 
10-07-2004, 01:40 PM
#1072
It's all good.
If you're using 40 wt. up front, you need to have the orange (55) pistons, or your front end is going to be too heavily dampened.
30 wt. and 56's is much better.
If you're using 40 wt. up front, you need to have the orange (55) pistons, or your front end is going to be too heavily dampened.
30 wt. and 56's is much better.
10-07-2004, 05:43 PM
#1074
i use WD40 on my engines all the time. i just wish i knew why they always blew up!
heh, seriously though, when i pull the car apart for a thorough cleaning, i leave the plug in, pull the engine off the car, and wd40 the thing to death. then i use my air compressor to blow off all the oiley dirt that the wd40 didnt wash away, and then get to it with a fine wire brush. then i pull the plug out, fill the carb with wd40, turn the engine over on a paper towel (or several!) and lightly pull the starter until it washes all the nasty oiley stuff out of the engine. i keep repeating the process until the wd40 comes out the same color as it went in.
i just leave it like that until im going to use it, and ive had no problems with the car starting up afterwards. just pop in the plug and go. sometimes it starts on the first pull :O BUT that only works when youre smarter than me, and dont put the plug back in. i swear i go through plugs like they were going out of style.
heh, seriously though, when i pull the car apart for a thorough cleaning, i leave the plug in, pull the engine off the car, and wd40 the thing to death. then i use my air compressor to blow off all the oiley dirt that the wd40 didnt wash away, and then get to it with a fine wire brush. then i pull the plug out, fill the carb with wd40, turn the engine over on a paper towel (or several!) and lightly pull the starter until it washes all the nasty oiley stuff out of the engine. i keep repeating the process until the wd40 comes out the same color as it went in.
i just leave it like that until im going to use it, and ive had no problems with the car starting up afterwards. just pop in the plug and go. sometimes it starts on the first pull :O BUT that only works when youre smarter than me, and dont put the plug back in. i swear i go through plugs like they were going out of style.
10-07-2004, 08:12 PM
#1075
You want to see something gross?.....take your WD40 with the straw and stick it into your pipe and go to town for like 10 seconds. Then let it all drain out. Its a thick gooey orange mess of cr@p. I was just experimenting with it today for the first time and I got tons and tons of cr@p out of my pipe. Check it out.
10-07-2004, 09:51 PM
#1076
hehe yeah i did do that actually. i think the bulk of the nasty sludge came from my header. i found a flexible nylon pipe cleaning brush in my dads workshop full of tools we needed once and never used again lol it fit perfectly in the header and in through the inlet of the pipe.
great addition to any toolbox and only costs a few bucks at a hardware store in the plumbing section.
OH and i almost forgot... if you have access to an air compressor...
i got tired of buying can after can of compressed air to clean my chassis, so tonight i piped an air line from my 60 gallon compressor over to my little section of the workbench, and hooked up a coiled hose with a blow nozzle on it. works well at low pressure, but for cleaning out the muffler and header... hehe...
take a piece of cardboard outside, crank the compressor up to 120 PSI, stick the nozzle in the exhaust tip of the muffer (filled with wd40), and let loose with the air. the mess it makes on the cardboard is truely amazing
oh, liquid wrench penetrant works amazing on rc car engines/pipes too!
great addition to any toolbox and only costs a few bucks at a hardware store in the plumbing section.
OH and i almost forgot... if you have access to an air compressor...
i got tired of buying can after can of compressed air to clean my chassis, so tonight i piped an air line from my 60 gallon compressor over to my little section of the workbench, and hooked up a coiled hose with a blow nozzle on it. works well at low pressure, but for cleaning out the muffler and header... hehe...
take a piece of cardboard outside, crank the compressor up to 120 PSI, stick the nozzle in the exhaust tip of the muffer (filled with wd40), and let loose with the air. the mess it makes on the cardboard is truely amazing
oh, liquid wrench penetrant works amazing on rc car engines/pipes too!
10-08-2004, 05:43 AM
#1077
Tech Adept
Hi Aaron,
I have a Losi XXX-T MF(stock spur) and just got Reedy KR 12x1 for it.
What do you think would be a good starting point for as pinion ?
Best regards
Eirikur Kjartansson
I have a Losi XXX-T MF(stock spur) and just got Reedy KR 12x1 for it.
What do you think would be a good starting point for as pinion ?
Best regards
Eirikur Kjartansson
10-08-2004, 06:39 AM
#1078
I never clean out my engines.. I would be concerned if the WD40 is breaking down the castor to clean it.. and there is still some left.. and then you start your engine with very little lubrication.. yikes!! castor is "good" for your engine.. I would suggest not cleaning it with WD40 personally.. maybe Aaron has some insight on this also..
10-08-2004, 08:30 AM
#1079
I don't want to get in a tissy fit over how to clean the engine but WD stands for "Water Displacement." the 40 is how many times it took the creater to get the formula right. There's a little history for ya. This stuff is about as oily and greasy as it gets....its not exactly a grease buster....thats what I use motor spray for. I believe it would be a bad decision spray motor spray into the engine.....that would really dry out everything. Shoot, if you wanted everything to stay super lubricated, then just fill your engine and tank and pipe and lines with fuel. The only reason that would be bad is simply becasue fuel goes bad fairly quickly once its been put into a smaller quantity....IE... in the tank and run. Then lets get some clarififcation.....what is "nitro" spray? can I effectively spray "nitro" spray into my engine to flush it out?
10-08-2004, 09:04 AM
#1080
Nitro spray is any one of many degreasers people are selling nowadays..it can get scary.
If you are going to clean your engine out with WD-40 (which is perfectly safe) remember to lubricate the parts with after-run oil.
It is synthetic oil that is good for your engine. Castor oil provides over-rev and over-heat protection, which is why it is included (in large quantities) in fuels aimed at the RTR market. Most race-blended fuels have little or no castor.
snikkari - I'd start with a 17 or 18 and go from there.
If you are going to clean your engine out with WD-40 (which is perfectly safe) remember to lubricate the parts with after-run oil.
It is synthetic oil that is good for your engine. Castor oil provides over-rev and over-heat protection, which is why it is included (in large quantities) in fuels aimed at the RTR market. Most race-blended fuels have little or no castor.
snikkari - I'd start with a 17 or 18 and go from there.
