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Old 09-24-2004, 02:26 PM   #961
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argh!

so i go to my LHS to order a CVD kit for my GT, along with some fuzzies and rims to go with. while im there i get a new tranny case to round out my almost shiney new tranny.

i get home and rebuild the tranny again only to discover that either associated lists the wrong size bearings on their parts breakdown, or the dude gave me the wrong ones. either way, no biggie.

so i throw some diff lube in the gears to smooth it out a bit and screw the tranny back together. when i snug it down the tranny stiffens right up. i stuck the drive shaft in my drill press and ran it for a few minutes which loosened it up some but not enough. what could be the cause? the bearings that are a tiny bit too small in the OD department? the only original part in the tranny is the outdrives and the top shaft. why would it stiffen up like that?
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Old 09-24-2004, 06:44 PM   #962
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Dude!....That was an awesome explination of what every needle does! Thanks! I actually went to my LHS today after school and I've got a guy out there who is all pro when it comes to nitro engines. He dialed it in for me, but I asked him more questions than I would like to say!

All I know now is that Its running amazing and I don't want to mess with the needles for a while!

Thanks Again!
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Old 09-24-2004, 08:24 PM   #963
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Hey Aaron,
I tried the grease and the paper in the mesh, I also put a new 86t kevlar spur on. I tseems to be working, but I was also wondering if the diff. had anything to do with it? I am not sure if its to tight.
Thanks,
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Old 09-24-2004, 08:35 PM   #964
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mafia,

i hate to be the one to break it to you, lol but there are going to be aot of needle adjustments in your future. everything from ambient temp to relative humidity will affect how your car performs.

the GOOD news is that its only very minor minor tweaking to get it where you want it
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Old 09-24-2004, 09:26 PM   #965
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Aaron,

Ok, the engine is running good.....for the moment. But now I'm focusing on the brakes. I can go from full speed to a stop in about 15 feet. But, Slow speeds to a full stop has the same feel....like its not biting the pad very hard. At a low speed I want the car to feel like it wants to front flip. Mainly because the layout right now has a jump with a landing within a foot from a haripin so I need the car to stop. I really don't want to mess with the servo if I don't have to because the radio and throttle as it is feels and acts amazing. Can this adjustment be as easy as moving the brake links?....or tightening the brake pad nuts? Also, how should the brakes feel....the layout is fairly tight so if that helps at all....

Thanks!
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Old 09-24-2004, 10:38 PM   #966
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there is no happy setting with brakes. you set the brake where it works for you. some guys like softer brakes so they can slow down for turns, some like rock solid braking for power drifting around turns. it all depends on your style of driving. if you want harder brakes, you can simply adjust the linkage between the brake and the servo.

personally i like my brakes to lock tight so i can spin the car around turns. the downside, is that if im not careful i just do a donut when i hop back on the throttle
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Old 09-25-2004, 01:28 AM   #967
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t3 - The diff won't cause any noise unless it's slipping.

mafia - A post of mine from the glow plug thread:

The days of tuning by smoke are gone. Most fuels (especially those used for racing) produce very little smoke. We now only have our perception of speed and the sound of the engine by which to gauge our tuning.

The HSN must always be tuned first. The HSN affects the air/fuel mixture across the entire range of throttle. Once the engine is running decently and is thoroughly broken in, the HSN should be tuned for strong acceleration and should allow the engine to clean out and rev freely at top speed. An engine that surges is usually a sign of being too lean, as the engine will be starving for fuel; blubbering and an excessive amount of smoke at full throttle means the engine is simply too rich.

Once the HSN is dialed in, you can begin working on the LSN. The influence of the LSN is small in comparison to the HSN, but still important. Tune the LSN to allow crisp acceleration from idle and to control the consistency of idle. An idle that surges suggests that the LSN is set too lean, while an engine that loads up and dies immediately means that you're too rich. Remember that a bog does not always mean your engine is too rich. An engine may lean-bog as it is starving for fuel. Your engine should load up and die on its own after about 30-45 seconds if the LSN is tuned right.

The idle is the last thing you should mess with. Your idle speed will always drop once the engine reaches running temperature, so don't be alarmed if it sounds too high when you start your engine. The ideal idle speed is anywhere between the low point of having your engine die when coming to a stop, and the high point of having your car creep forward. A leaner LSN setting will usually cause the idle to change erratically and speed up.

Most common mistakes:
- Tuning the LSN too lean and tuning the HSN too rich to compensate. This is probably the most common mistake among new tuners.
- Re-tuning after replacing the head with an aftermarket one. Just because your engine temperature dropped 60 degrees does not mean you can lean out your needles. Running too lean robs the engine of vital lubrication.
- Trying to tune the engine while there is an air leak somewhere. If you simply cannot get the engine tuned correctly, replace your fuel line and check for other air leaks (such as the tank, engine, and pipe fitting).

As far as brakes...you can alter your linkages to change how the brakes feel. You will never get your brakes to feel like they do in electric..it just isn't gonna happen. I set my drag brake to help the truck slow down when I let off the throttle, and my full brakes will all but lock the rear wheels up HARD. You gotta rely on your finger to give you any sort of proportional braking.
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Old 09-25-2004, 02:38 AM   #968
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Thanks Aaron!....but on the braking, when do you adjust the tightness of the pad bolts and when do you adjust the link? Then also, I've found that if you want more brakes that comes at the expense of you free-wheel action. If I let the throttle on the controller sit at neutral, the car will ever so slightly begin to roll foward then pick up speed as it goes. As it is, it will idle all day long. But you're saying the drag-brakes are OK for nitro cars? If so, then I can figure that one out just fine.

Thanks!
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Old 09-25-2004, 02:42 AM   #969
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yeah i didnt really clearify that one. when i say bogging down i mean you hit the throttle and your ankle gets sprayed with nitro
been there, done that. got the blue stained sock to prove it hehe

oh mafia i might also point out that fuel seriously affects your tuning too. i was never really happy with how my CV-R ran, its like i could get it close but never perfect. I switched from blue thunder to Odonnel racing fuel 20% and within the first tank i had that puppy dialed in like a party line. i still think its running a bit too warm, but cooler than it was with the blue thunder, and the water drop test would suggest otherwise. the engine itself is cooler running, but the pipe gets hotter. ill have it metered at the track this comming week when i get over there.

aaron, any thoughts on my sorry tranny?

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Old 09-25-2004, 02:47 AM   #970
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Quote:
Originally posted by mafiaracers
Then also, I've found that if you want more brakes that comes at the expense of you free-wheel action.
ive never had a problem with any brakes where i couldnt get them to pinch hard enough. then again its no secret that the associated brake setup isnt the best, but ive messed with a couple, both stopped on a dime.
Quote:
If I let the throttle on the controller sit at neutral, the car will ever so slightly begin to roll foward then pick up speed as it goes.
if your car is sitting flat, at idle, it shouldnt move at all. mine did for ages and i assumed it was normal, but an MIP clutch and a good running engine solved that problem
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Old 09-25-2004, 03:02 AM   #971
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I've got the MIP's with the losi spring. I'm running Odonell 20% with an OS8 cold plug. Do you want the controller trim to keep the car from rolling or adjusting the brake tighter so it doesn't roll?
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Old 09-25-2004, 11:34 AM   #972
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if it does it on perfectly flat surfaces, id look at your idle speed being too high
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Old 09-25-2004, 08:06 PM   #973
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The O.S. 8 is a hot plug.

You can use your throttle trim and the linkage to set the brake. Moving the collar on the very back is what changes the drag brake (forward will add drag brake). Moving both brake collars forward will make the brakes lock up tighter. I never mess with the brake clips or the bolts that hold them on.
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Old 09-26-2004, 04:01 PM   #974
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Aaron,

How's HRH treating you?
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Old 09-26-2004, 09:35 PM   #975
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I was up there all day yesterday for some serious practice. The layout is cool and my truck was really good, especially considering how loose the track was.

It's the tightest layout I can remember..I've never used brakes that much in my life.
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