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Old 09-21-2004, 10:39 PM   #931
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hey Aron when was the last time you heard or said Strait""Talladega Down the Strait"

hee hee
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Old 09-21-2004, 11:38 PM   #932
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Hehe it's been too long! Darn gas tracks and their 15 ft. wide straightaways..
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Old 09-22-2004, 11:41 AM   #933
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I'm sorry if this has been asked before but I need to know a range of pinions I should have for my XXX-T MF1. I'm gonna start racing it in Stock, 19T and possibly even Mod. Is 16-22T a good range to have or do I need more?
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Old 09-22-2004, 11:44 AM   #934
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16T-22T will be more than enough to satisfy any motor you put in your truck. The only motors I would gear any higher than a 19 is a P2K...which I would start at 20/86.

P2K2's at 18/86.
Monster at 16/86.

JasonC - That kinda piqued my curiosity..who are you?
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Old 09-22-2004, 11:54 AM   #935
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Aaron - A quick question for you...have you ever run a Reedy Quad Mag 19T in your truck? In touring cars, i've had to use pinions 2-3T larger than my normal gearing for a P2K. Take into consideration also that I run 64P and much larger spurs in my touring car. I tried a 20T in my truck last night with the Reedy QM 19T and it seem fast but not as fast as it could be. I'm pretty sure I saw you at the Babcock race this past Sunday. Were you running 19T? I saw several people were running Reedy 19's in their trucks but I didn't ask because they were running MF2s and T4s
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Old 09-22-2004, 12:11 PM   #936
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I've never run a Reedy motor in my truck..and I've never run 19T. Normally with four magnet motors, we gear down even more to get the torque back...so I'm not sure I'm going to be any help to you right now :-P.

The guys up at HRH have a lot of experience running those motors. I'd give the store a call and ask for advice on where to begin gearing.
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Old 09-22-2004, 12:35 PM   #937
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I ran 19T at the Babcock race. I run the element motor and gear it at 20/86 in a MF2. From running a core (my choice for stock) I greared up 2-3 teeth. I would gear up 2 teeth from a p2k or 2-3 from a p2k2 or 3-4 teeth from a Monster stock. These motors have full blank arms to they have a lot more torque even though they are lower wind motors.

Last edited by Casper; 09-22-2004 at 12:55 PM.
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Old 09-22-2004, 02:14 PM   #938
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There we go! Thanks Casper.
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Old 09-22-2004, 02:25 PM   #939
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Thanks for the info guys...much appreciated.
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Old 09-22-2004, 02:28 PM   #940
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rod_b i run the reedy qm 19 turn in my xxx t. this motor gets its power from torque. with that said, you need to run between a 20 to 22 pinion depending on wheather the track is small and tight or wide open. the mistake that many people are making with the reedy kryptons and the qm 19 is they are gearing them like they would if the motors were like what they normally run. basiclly you need to go around three teeth larger with 48 p gears. gear it up and if it is tuned right, people will think you are running a 14 or 15 turn.
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Old 09-22-2004, 07:17 PM   #941
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Aaron,

OK, I got the whole thing put together and the linkages set and ready for action. I gotta do some homework, but tonight I'm going to fire it up for the first time to see how it goes....break it in that is. Anyway, what's "the good"...."the bad".....and "the ugly" way to turn the car off when I'm done.

I've heard directly stopping the flywheel is a good way, and that pinching the line or plugging the pipe is the not-so-good way. One guy at my track dumps out the fuel and lets the car starve itself. Can you please point me in the right direction?

Thanks!
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Old 09-22-2004, 08:40 PM   #942
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ive heard pinching the line isnt good for the engine. it has enough residual oil to keep the motor running well, so i guess its personal preference. ive found that just stopping the flywheel with my shoe makes the engine easier to start the next time. ive also found that not running it for a couple days after shutting it off with the flywheel, my glow plug will be dead. dont know if it was a handful of cheap glowplugs or what, but it could be a cause i guess.
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Old 09-22-2004, 09:10 PM   #943
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I do not feel there is a wrong way to turn off a gas car. Aaron may disagree with this but this is my opinion. Lets look at what happens when you turn off the engine different ways.

Flywheel-- This is an easy way. Using your finger works but only at idle. If the engine revs you can hurt your finger and never use your hand with a runaway engine! (maybe obivous but you would be amazed!) (with a runaway use your shoe and step on the fly wheel (best method to stop a runaway!) When you stop the flywheel there is still fuel in the engine since the engine all of sudden stops unburned fuel for the next cycle is still in the engine. Also there is fuel in the carb and the fuel line and the tank is presurized. That is why it is so easy to start. This is probably the best method to stop the engine if you will run again later in the day. This method also does not starve the engine of fuel making the mixture lean and reving out the the engine like other methods. It is not good to store the engine when stopped like this since you should run the engine dry of fuel before you store the car for more then 12 hours.

Pinch fuel line-- Works by starving the engine of fuel. This is also a good way to stop a runaway. Pinch or pull out the fuel line. Without gas the car stops! Starving the engine will lean the mixture and rev the engine. End result the engine stops. The engine does not have fuel in it so it is harder to start the next time but since you still have fuel in the fuel line it usually fires up without much issue. Reving the engine and starving it of fuel/oil is normally a bad thing and the engine should never be run on the lean side as this increased engine temps and wears out parts faster due to lack of lubrication but for the 2-3 seconds it takes for the engine to shut off it is not a bad thing. A properly tuned engine will have more then enough lube in it to survive this short time period with no adverse effects.
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Old 09-22-2004, 09:31 PM   #944
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con't

Plugging the exhaust.

This works by not allowing the exhaust to escape the engine which backs up the system to not allow new air and fuel to enter the engine since the stuff in it has no where to go. This method does not starve the engine but it can leave burnt fuel in the engine (since it cannot get out) which is why some people do not like this method. Fuel is still left in the engine which is bad for long term storage as fuel sitting in the engine is bad. This method works well again during idle but runaway engines are very hard to stop this way as the exhaust is VERY hot and a high reving engine puts out a lot of exhaust with makes it hard to "seal" the opening long enough to stall the engine. We have not starved the engine of fuel or lubrication but have left expended "bad" fuel in the engine. Again this is not a big deal if the car is to be run again that day. It is usually easy to start the engine again after stoping with this method.

In conclusion. All of these ways are ok ways to stop an R/C engine between runs. You should however alway run the engine out of gas at the end of the day. Dump the fuel in the tank (do not put it back in the fuel bottle!) and start the engine and let it run. (yes this starves the engine leaning it out and starving lub but agian only for 2-3 seconds tops!) This makes sure all the fuel is out of the engine which is the safest way to store the engine. If you are storing the engine long term (more then 1 week) I feel you should put some afterrun oil in the engine for storage. After putting in the afterrun oil turn the engine over a couple times to spread the oil around and it should be good to go to sit around until you would like to play again!

Hope this helps out and Aaron does not disagree too much!
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Old 09-22-2004, 09:32 PM   #945
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beetlebz-- The plugs were probably fouled by the left over fuel in the engine because of the way you stoped it. If you always store the engine after starving it of fuel you should not have this problem.
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