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Old 09-11-2004, 11:31 AM   #841
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I can race gas truck without daddy..but if I'm goin down there meaning business, I gotta have him there!
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Old 09-11-2004, 05:59 PM   #842
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Default Setup Adjustment?

Aaron, I've been reading your stuff for a while and want to say that you are doing a great job with this forum! I just joined and this is my first post.

I am finding that Adam's standard Dirt setup for the XXXNT is just a bit too aggressive for me (or my driving style) on my local track which is small and very beat-up (Ventura Roadrunners, Camarillo, CA). What suggestions, if any, can you recommend to tone it down and make it generally easier to drive? I think that it may be a simple as changing some things in the front such as oil, camber link, and washers but thought I'd check with you first. I remember that Adam once had some suggestions and I wrote them down, but now I can't find them at home or online. Thanks for your time.
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Old 09-11-2004, 08:20 PM   #843
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Aaron,
I know you probably don't ever run your xxx-t on carpet but I was wondering if you could try to give me some advice. I'm going to run my xxx-t on a tight carpet oval. I have some experience with this. I plan on retrofitting the tranny so it won't have a slipper, using foam tires, 80wt shock oil, and gearing a stock motor about 26 to 28 teeth on the pinion. Do you have any advice on other setup options? What should I do with the diff? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
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Old 09-12-2004, 12:22 AM   #844
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Brownie - Thanks for the props!

I've been to that track before, but not since the new dirt.

The easiest change would probably be front tires. If you tell me what you're running, I might be able to suggest something smoother. You should try adding a washer under the front ballstud to tone down some steering, and raising the front end very slightly.

timmerica - I have zero experience on carpet, but I would mount the camber link ballstuds as far apart as you can to make the camber link as long as possible, which will keep the truck flat around the corner. It also seems to me like you'd want to run the diff tighter to stop the rear end from diffing out upon exit of the corner.
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Old 09-12-2004, 02:14 AM   #845
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Aaron,

I'm reading up on everything I can find about nitro engines and fuel and what-not. I'm down with the needles and servo set-up and yada-yada....but for the life of me, I don't know how a clutch is "tuned." I understand that you dremmel off material to make it engage at different times, but how much and where?

-Thanks!
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Old 09-12-2004, 08:58 AM   #846
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Default drake on rough

Brownie, try aaron's suggestion first. I have had similiar experience with that set up as well. I ran every thing the same except I switched the springs to orange in front and red in back. this seemed to have a little better rear traction and the truck jumped better for me. a front tire that is about half tread might be the ticket though.

Aaron, when is it a good idea to run your diff tighter than normal. I usually set it so it won't slip but is ultra smooth. When can I run it tighter and what will it cause?
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Old 09-12-2004, 10:13 AM   #847
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mafia - Usually, an X-Acto is used to trim material off of the trailing edge of the shoe (opposite of where the pin is). Other people will drill holes into the shoe. Sometimes these holes are filled with diff balls or ball bearings to make the shoe heavier and engage sooner, which would help traction.

In all the years of racing gas truck, I've never modified my clutch.

stu - When you run your diff tighter, it won't diff out when accelerating out of a corner, which will give you more drive out of the turn. The downside is that the truck won't rotate as well, and you'll have to slide to get it to turn.
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Old 09-12-2004, 10:49 AM   #848
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Well, ive modified my clutch, just for curiosities sake, and had good results, taking off about 1/5-1/4 inch of the trailing edge made a difference to accleration(better). A lightweight flywheel makes a big difference to acceleration too.

Fast acceleration was hard on my diff though and broke the diff case apart by stripping it's screws, so i bolted it together and shimmed it, never heard a noise or lost drive since...

Personally, i think the best improvement in acceleration is found by using the correct tyres for the given surface etc... Once you got that figured out, then it's time to stuff around with clutch tuning etc.
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Old 09-12-2004, 01:23 PM   #849
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Thanks Aaron. Losi tires are geting difficult to find around here (the mom & pop store closed and Hobby People came in), and I tried Pro-Line "The Edge" M2 in front and Pro-Line Holeshots M2 in back. Standard foams were used in both. The new dirt gets beat up really fast and it sticks to your tires when wet. I cleaned my tires betweeen each round. As the track dried out, my truck became more difficult to manage. My buddy left his tires caked with dirt and his was very easy to drive. Let me know your thoughts. With your recommendation, I'll drive a bit further to get what I need.
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Old 09-12-2004, 02:19 PM   #850
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Hi again Aaron,

I am thinking of getting Reedy Flash Point 12x2 for my
XXX-T. What brushes would be good for that application.
Or would you maybe recommend another motor.
I am willing to spend up to $70 on a motor for the XXX-T so maybe I would be better off getting Team Orion Revolution V2 12x2 ?!?!

I race the XXX-T and there is no motor limit here.
The track is rather rough, medium size and has short but big jumps.
I have GM V12xc, no limit ESC.


Plz comment.
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Old 09-12-2004, 02:43 PM   #851
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So....if a clutch engages faster, then you get more acceleration? and a later engaging is more top end?
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Old 09-12-2004, 04:07 PM   #852
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so Aaron am I correct to assume that if the track dries up and gets loose a tighter diff will help keep your truck stable coming out of a turn when spin outs tend to happen.
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Old 09-12-2004, 09:12 PM   #853
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So finally I've started up my os cv-r in my drake. I'm breaking it in by heat cycling the first tank. When I start it and let it idle, the engine gets up to about 285 degrees in a minute. This is with the needle 3 1/2 turns out. It could possible get hotter but I shut it down. Do I need to make it richer????? Or is this about right. I heard people dont like it over 200 degrees for break in....

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Old 09-12-2004, 10:57 PM   #854
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Ya know, I just realized I probably need to richen the idle needle...
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Old 09-12-2004, 11:09 PM   #855
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brownie - Harder compound tires will give you more steering when it's wet. I'd really try to find a set of Red Directionals and hope that fixes the problem. If so..you'll know what caused it!

You can always order tires from Superior Hobbies..they stock EVERYTHING. Also, give www.pacificcoasthobbies.com and www.ultimatehobbies.com a try.

We used to have a track where the trick (when the track was wet) was to leave the tires caked with mud. The dirt on the tire would stick to the dirt on the track and give you more bite..weird, I know. It's an old motocross trick.

nutfluff - Make sure the low end needle is flush with the brass housing. and the top end needle is flush as well. This should be a good starting point as far as cooling the engine down.

stu - I don't adjust my diff based on track condition. A tighter diff should theoretically help exiting corners on a high bite track, but I would leave it looser for a slippery track.

mafia - The earlier the clutch engages, the less acceleration you will have (which can be a good thing.) The lighter the clutch, the later it will engage, and the more punch you'll have.

snikkari - I would recommend the Orion V2 or the Trinity D5 and D6 line of motors. The Orion V2 endbell really extends motor life and reduces the maintenance you have to do to keep it running in top shape. Trinity's motors put out some serious horsepower and are great for high-level racing.
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