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Old 09-02-2004, 08:38 AM   #751
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would "out of the package fresh" AA's make a 45 minute race?
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Old 09-02-2004, 08:50 AM   #752
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Not a problem.
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Old 09-02-2004, 09:14 AM   #753
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a set of 4 AA batteries will last me for close to 3 or 4 hours of solid run time before they need to be changed.

the only reason im considering a batt pack is because rechargable packs are 6v instead of 4.8, better servo performance

so one vote for starting with turnbuckles....
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Old 09-02-2004, 09:40 AM   #754
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4 AA alkaline batteries are 6v. It's 1.5 per cell. Rechargeables are 1.2 per cell, so you need one extra to get to 6v.
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Old 09-02-2004, 10:22 AM   #755
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Jack is correct. The reason I like rechargables is that I can just keep charging them at a low rate and I know Iwill always get through the day. I do not need to keep track of how long have run and when I need to change the batteries out.
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Old 09-02-2004, 01:10 PM   #756
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I wouldn't bother with aftermarket clutch bells and spur gears. Until you get a tranny brace (Trinity makes one), you're going to strip spur gears. The GT chassis is known for flexing behind the motor, and that's what causes the gears to strip.

And titanium turnbuckles are a great idea too.
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Old 09-02-2004, 01:31 PM   #757
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huh i didnt know that. i will A) order one next paycheckwhen i get the new tranny rebuild parts, which i need, i think i just fried my tranny

and B) fix the flex problem when i build my RC10GT ladder frame 4WD basher

aaron, i have the stock one http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LX3402&P=7
is that one not good enough?
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Old 09-02-2004, 01:37 PM   #758
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Is there anyway to make a servo wire shorter without haveing to solder the wire? Like can you poke those 3 metal tabs out that are in the servo wire plug and un solder those and then cut the wire and then solder those plugs back on where you cut the wire etc? I hope that makes sense and I hope if that way isnt the right way you can help. I just dont wanna mess anything up
Thanks Aaron
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Old 09-02-2004, 02:11 PM   #759
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There is no easy way I know of to shorten the wire. The best way I know to take up the extra wire is to wrap the wire around a hex driver tight. (the small end) this will "coil" the wire and take up the slack. See the attached picture.
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Old 09-02-2004, 02:14 PM   #760
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karter - What Casper said.

beetlebz - I'd look into an aluminum unit, like the one Trinity sells.
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Old 09-02-2004, 02:21 PM   #761
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I personally always do surgery on my wires. Thats assuming I'll never use them in a different car. Keep the wires short and out of the way is the way I look at it. Less wire is less resistance....even if is is miniscuel.
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Old 09-02-2004, 04:15 PM   #762
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welp, fixed my gt tranny. well, i need a part, but i know whats wrong with it. the idler gear between the diff gear and top gear is completely stripped!

only a $4 part but it will take a week for my LHS to get it for me
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Old 09-02-2004, 05:02 PM   #763
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Quote:
Originally posted by karter
Is there anyway to make a servo wire shorter without haveing to solder the wire? Like can you poke those 3 metal tabs out that are in the servo wire plug and un solder those and then cut the wire and then solder those plugs back on where you cut the wire etc? I hope that makes sense and I hope if that way isnt the right way you can help. I just dont wanna mess anything up
Thanks Aaron
karter
.

http://www.rc-dymond.com/order_cables.htm

Near the bottom they sell a crimper and those metal tabs. It's not cheap, but should work for what you are trying to do.

-James
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Old 09-02-2004, 05:09 PM   #764
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Betlezp

I have been running the GT for only 7 months, racing twice a week and practicing during the week, I will tell you what I have learned

Tranny brace from trinty a must first upgrade.

Mip ball bearing steering not needed, a lot of people like them and a lot of people dont like them, I could never get mine to stay tight. I dont think the pros use them.

Clutch, either 4 shoe, or mip. The pros use a converted tc3, but very hard to make the clutch bell. I use the traxxes rustler clutch but thats 60 bucks you really dont need to spend. Most regular racers use mip around here

Rear a arm carriers always come loose, when racing, I use the aluminum ones from trinity, you can lock tight them and have no problems, or you can dremel some slots in the plactic stock ones and put nut their, and if you dremel to much use you sodier iron to get that nut fitted tight.

I really like the FT shocks, I use the aluminum cap, had problems with the plastic one stripping out.

You can get a hump back or a flat pack for you receivor pack, people I like the flat back lower center of gravity, but most dont agree with me.

Hope this helps.

AW, Not trying to step on any toes, I know this is your thread, just wanted to add some things that I have learned.

I will say Losi has the best support group out their, I am not aware of any team drivers from associate that have threads like AW and drake, Francis, Kinwals Etc

Does any know of any Associated thread like that??

Thanks
Dave Mac

PS
Aron you comming to the Lance Norrics track in November, or next summer maybe?
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Old 09-02-2004, 06:09 PM   #765
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thanks for the input dmac. im sure aaron wont mind you saving him some typing

i use the 4 n 1 mip clutch, and love it. actually just drilled and tapped my clutch nut out today so its like the crescenzi racing one. its not as good, but im sure it will do the job. if it doesnt, ill just get the crescenzi one.

i run the car pretty hard, and i havnt had any problems with the rear end yet. eventually ill get new rear arms, but thats at the bottom of my list.

which shocks are the FT ones? i only see one type of shock kit on tower, with the blue body. and do i have to buy the caps seperately?

EDIT: my shopping list for this comming week is as follows, a robinson diff gear, a robinson steel idler gear, a crescenzi diff rebuilt kit, and a crescenzi tranny bearing kit. oh, and a CR clutch nut.
did i forget anything? somthing else i didnt catch?

thx d mac!

Last edited by beetlebz; 09-02-2004 at 09:51 PM.
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