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Old 07-25-2004, 01:57 PM   #556
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Hey everyone! I just got back from the Saturday Series race..I battled all race long with Jared Tebo for the second position, only to finish within a few feet of him when it was all said and done. Adam took the lead from the starting tone and led every lap..not a bad race for the Losi/Trinity crew! Adam is now leading the points series with Jared and me in tow.

Fran - Sometimes the flatwire armatures can cause problems..I use round-wire armatures in all of my mod motors (the advantage of flatwire is a moot point in off-road).

nitro kid - 81/23 will give you more top end but not nearly as much off the line power as 88/24 will. Try 88/23 for a happy medium between the two.

mafia - 1-B keeps the front end VERY flat on high speed tracks..and I really wouldn't recommend using it in mod racing. It makes the car very stable and numb, allowing you to drive hard into the corner. If the track gets rough, it will slow you down through the bumps.
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Old 07-25-2004, 11:09 PM   #557
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Aaron,

What is a good starting point for gearing for a large track?.... BK1 stock of course. Right now, I'm thinking...82/19.

Thanks!
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Old 07-26-2004, 12:03 AM   #558
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Running a monster I assume?

19/82 would be a good spot to start, but if the track is large enough, you might get away with 20/82.
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Old 07-26-2004, 01:35 PM   #559
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aaron,

do you run 4 wheel mod? if so how do you properly adjust the slipper. Most of the guys at my track leave it basically locked but their diffs go to crap in a couple of runs. I would like to save the diffs a little.
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Old 07-26-2004, 01:43 PM   #560
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Hold the car down on the table by resting your arm over the chassis, so the rear shock tower will catch on your forearm (the buggy facing away from you). Punch the throttle and listen for any slip. If the car lurches forward with no slipping noise, your slipper is too tight. The most important thing is just to make sure the slipper slips before the diffs do, so it will save the drivetrain when you land off of a jump.
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Old 07-26-2004, 01:53 PM   #561
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ok i'll give that a try it makes sense. I know the slippe is suposed to slip and save the diff but how often do the diffs usually need to be rebuilt. I know depending on setup it will vary but if setup right how long should it go?
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Old 07-26-2004, 02:24 PM   #562
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If everything is spot-on, and your diffs aren't slipping, they should last a few race weekends between rebuilds. Higher traction surfaces and bumpy tracks will be harder on the diffs.
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Old 07-26-2004, 07:59 PM   #563
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Post motor!!!!!

i know this is a new comeing question but here it go will a 19T chameleon 2 be better them a team orin rush 19T
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Old 07-26-2004, 08:17 PM   #564
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set up tools?

I was wondering what tools/Techniques you use to set up your camber, toe in/out ect. on your cars especially 1/8 scale cars.
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Old 07-26-2004, 08:21 PM   #565
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nitro kid - Both are good motors. I've never seen anyone run the Orion motor, but I know the Chameleon 2 is good.

c main - I use a simple RPM camber gauge. I usually eye-ball the toe-in on my cars as well. I have heard great things about the Hudy setup board, however.

I don't think anyone in the R/C car world (especially off-road) knows enough about camber and toe angles for specific measurements to really take effect. I can't justify spending good money on a setup board when most people won't know the difference.
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Old 07-26-2004, 08:28 PM   #566
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as always great info. it's good to see team drivers helping people out. keep up the good work.
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Old 07-26-2004, 08:37 PM   #567
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Default Aaron Waldron MVR

Notch Johnson Industries would like to announce Aaron Waldron as the MVR of R/c for 2004.
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Old 07-26-2004, 10:30 PM   #568
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Aaron. Are you going to make the short trip down to Family Hobbies in Santee anytime? We seem to be getting a pretty good mod truck class on Friday nights and Wed nights as well. I just picked up a MF2 and would like to pick your brain a little in person.
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Old 07-26-2004, 10:49 PM   #569
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I've been picking his brian since the thread started....I'm afraid that there might not be much left...sorry about that Aaron Anyway this track has the option of running either holeshots or x-2000 rears. I bought a set of both and will see how they run during the time I'm out practicing tomorrow. The track will not be watered....only blown off every other heat or so. I've never raced on a bone dry, hard packed surface before....do you have any tips? Also, the holeshots are M3. I know that a really soft compound....how long should I expect out of those?

Thanks!
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Old 07-27-2004, 01:07 AM   #570
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c-main - No problem! That's why I'm here..TL and Trinity don't hook me up for no reason!

notch - Haha thanks!

jkerr - I am going to try and make it down there after I get home from Sweden. Travis Corey and a few of the other locals have been twisting my arm to head down there for a while now.

mafia - If the track grooves up at all you might want to try BK Bars. X's are a great tire and are very consistent..they work on a lot of different surfaces. M3 Holeshots are going to wear rather quickly..
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