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Old 06-17-2004, 06:29 PM   #421
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Mafia Ill keep Aaron on his toes, I have tons of questions
Have fun over their.

Aaron thanks, im gonna get some of those mcoy59 tomorow, been using Odonells but they dont seen to last to long
Thanks
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Old 06-17-2004, 08:27 PM   #422
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Dave Mac!!! I didn't even know you were on this board, hehe. I won't be running Saturday, ole Pace give me a truck with about half the parts for it to run . Anyhow, I guess he might have another easy one this weekend. See ya later. I may not even run the truck until Nitro Fest at the farm.

Sorry for jumping on your thread Aaron, just had to say what up to a guy, lol.
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Old 06-17-2004, 09:44 PM   #423
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This here track is about 15 minutes by car from the home I'm staying at http://www.tamiya.com/japan/rc/circuit/circuits.htm
scroll down to the KAKEGAWA RC CIRCUIT. It looks pretty intense! They should have internet access there, so I'll see if I cant post something while I'm there.

Later! and good luck racing!

Last edited by Aaron Waldron; 06-18-2004 at 12:49 AM.
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Old 06-18-2004, 12:51 AM   #424
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Melton - S'all good!

D Mac - The OD plugs are supposed to be pretty good, but I've never run them. I'm not sure how they are rated heat-wise compared to McCoy plugs (although I know that 99's are cold and 77's are hot).

If you ever have any questions, I'll be sure to try and answer them!
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Old 06-18-2004, 03:36 AM   #425
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Aaron I do appreciate all the help, you the man

Any tricks on keeping metal screws from backing out of stripped plastic?

Brandond, I Think Chris got the rest of the stuff yesterday for you, we ran up at Kanopolis, I think were going to Keiths this weekend, if you bring your truck, what ever parts Chris forgot between me and everyone we will have all the parts and get it built, your the only guy that can beat the boy!!!


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Old 06-18-2004, 07:05 AM   #426
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Sorry Aaron I've discraced myself in your thread.....excuse me while I go blankety-blank myself. I'm no longer worthy!
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Old 06-18-2004, 09:31 AM   #427
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mafia - Just don't let it happen again! haha

D Mac - Obviously, the best method would be to replace the plastic piece. In a pinch, you can use glue on the threads of the screw like you would loctite (which only works when threading into metal).
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Old 06-19-2004, 06:36 PM   #428
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Aaron, does the MF2 come with all of the white plastic peices shown in the pictures. Such as the ball cups and yokes. And will the white peices be sold seperatly. thanks.

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Old 06-19-2004, 08:45 PM   #429
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Aaron, are prolines new snake eyes truck tires similiar to the t-bone as far as conditional use. I think you posted something on the snake eyes earlier. what's your real opinion of the tire.
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Old 06-20-2004, 11:43 AM   #430
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Quote:
Originally posted by Aaron Waldron
Stock racing is all about battery power..the higher amp rate you charge, the more power you will have, but the shorter the life of the battery will be. Charging at 4 is easy on the packs, and peaking at 6 will "shock" the pack into having punch. At big races, I could care less about battery life..I want power! So I will beat my packs up and charge at 7.

In mod, punch isn't as big of a deal..if you need more power, you just drop in a faster motor (my cars wheelie almost uncontrollably..the last thing I need is more power!). My dad likes to charge and peak at 5 amps, but 4 amps is perfectly ok.

I don't change my charging parameters according to anything other than the importance of the event. There are many other ways to adapt to track conditions.
I'm new to electric and learning as I go. I charge my packs at 4 amps but just tried the 6 amp peaking that you discussed. Man what a difference. I'm still learning - just ordered some new pinion gears (different sizes) to try some different set-ups. I'm having twice the fun with electrics than I ever did with nitro.
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Old 06-20-2004, 11:33 PM   #431
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yakob - The MF2 comes with white ballcups and yokes. They'll be sold separately when they catch up with the demand for the kits.

stu - My opinion of most Pro-Line tires is the same..haha.

I think the Snake Eyes is aimed at tracks where Losi drivers would use the Stud or T-Bone. I believe the purpose was to make a truck tire that worked like the Bow-Tie but would last 45 minutes.

yblegal - Peaking at 6 amps makes a HUGE difference in power, but keeping things at 4 amps will be easier on your batteries.

For those of you out there with the budget, you should REALLY look into buying the Novak Smart Tray battery conditioning system. It's the most dialed product EVER released as far as battery care. I used one for the first time this weekend and I must say, the results are IMMEDIATELY noticeable.
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Old 06-22-2004, 06:27 PM   #432
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Aaron, With the drake pipe, will it matter much if you use a mugen header, or should I use the losi header. what would the difference be, the mugen is much shorter.

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Old 06-22-2004, 06:59 PM   #433
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It will depend on which mugen header you are using. The older one (which was very short) will give the engine much more power than the Losi header. The Losi header will fit inside the body much nicer, and will help to tame the power of today's wild rear-port engines.
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Old 06-22-2004, 07:23 PM   #434
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Thanks
AW
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Old 06-23-2004, 12:35 AM   #435
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No problem dude!
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