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Old 08-27-2007, 08:48 PM   #3991
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No, I won't make this one. I'm going to Phoenix to celebrate a buddy's 21st birthday.

But I'm really happy that things are working out for them and the location seems to be working well!
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Old 08-30-2007, 04:24 PM   #3992
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I am getting ready to put on the clutch for my 8T. I have forgone the stock shoes and ordered losi aluminum shoes all the way around. When installing all 4 aluminum shoes should they all have the same clutch springs?, or should 2 have gold, and 2 have silver springs? Thanks.
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Old 08-30-2007, 04:49 PM   #3993
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I prefer using all four silver springs. If you are having trouble controlling the power, then try using two golds to soften things up a bit.
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Old 09-07-2007, 11:20 AM   #3994
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Aaron,
I ran a 8 for a few months and went back to my Mugen because it suited my driving.
I still have the Losi and am determinded to make it work for me..
Someone said Casey's set up makes the car drive more like a "conventional" buggy. DO you agree with this? Do you know where I can find Casey's set up?

thanks,
Brian
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Old 09-08-2007, 02:05 PM   #3995
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More like a conventional buggy? Why would you want to do that?

Haha. No matter the setup, the Losi buggy performs best when you're just putting around the track. "Slower is faster" applies more to the 8IGHT than any other car in its class.

With that said, you can make the car easier to drive. I'm not certain what you're referring to with Casey's setup, but I think it's what I've been running since the Nitro Challenge.

It's the stock setup, with the following changes:
- 40 wt. with 54's in the front
- 3/3 rear block
- Long wheelbase
- At first, we were running 55's with 32.5 in the rear. I've since gone to 56's with 25 wt. and think it feels better in the rough. Both are worth trying.
- 4-A rear camber link
- 27mm front and 29mm rear ride height
- 95mm front and 106mm rear droop

13T clutch bell, and I prefer four carbon shoes with four gold springs. I think it's the best clutch setup I've run.

There are a few other things you can try, to make the car easier to drive. The upper-middle camber link hole in the rear tower, and the upper camber link hole in the front tower, will make the car easier to drive and less nervous. Also, you can try 5000 oil in the center diff to calm things down, especially on a rough track.
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Old 09-21-2007, 06:51 PM   #3996
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hi Aaron,

just a quick question for you this was posted on the losi 8 thread and I alway thought it was the other way around

[quote]You are thinking right. More antisquat will help in the bumps if you have the traction. When you load the front of the car (like going into a turn) the increased antisquat will take away side bite in the rear. However, the higher antisquat value will let you accelerate through the bumps and keep the car flat. [quote]

as I understand it less antisquat helps on a rough track not more I just wanted to run it by you before repling to the post

thanks
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Old 09-21-2007, 07:41 PM   #3997
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It depends on how big the bumps are, really. More anti-squat will make the car jump higher, which also means it will bounce the car around more on big bumps. It will give the car more forward bite which could help get through smaller bumps better, but that's about it.

Anti-squat means the rear end of the car will be bound up on-power. That's a bad thing when you're going through bumps.
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Old 09-21-2007, 08:23 PM   #3998
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Hello Aaron,
speaking about 1/8 buggy tire and wheels
My buddy likes to glue his foam to the wheel to decrease the amount of ballooning effect on the tire when accelerating.
I personally believe that the ballooning of the tire is an advantage when
accelerating, since all the weight transfer is to the rear, and the front tires need that ballooning to grab any ground possible.
What are your thoughts on this practice? Have you seen this before?

Thank you,
Tsanc10
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Old 09-21-2007, 10:50 PM   #3999
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Gluing the foam to the wheel shouldn't have too much effect on the tire ballooning. It will stop the foam from shifting around inside the tire, but it's not as big of a problem in buggy as it is in gas truck or truggy. You will have to do something to the carcass of the tire (like strapping them, which is wrapping tape around the inside of the tire) to stop them from ballooning.

Tire ballooning is generally not a good thing. When the tire turns into a pizza cutter, the contact patch it has with the ground is too small to provide much traction, but it can make the car very unstable.

Gluing the foam to the wheel drastically reduces the lifespan of the foam, which usually outweighs the benefits of gluing them.
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Old 09-23-2007, 05:14 AM   #4000
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Hi Aaron,

so which one actually caused balloning? the foam or tires?
if it is both, which one contributes more to balloning?
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Old 09-23-2007, 06:57 AM   #4001
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It's the tires. Simple centrifugal force. Fresh foam helps by attempting to keep the tire's shape but physics always wins.
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Old 09-23-2007, 01:51 PM   #4002
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Hi Aaron,
Just a few questions from South Africa.I have just changed over from Mugen to Losi and I've found the 8ight to be more responsive.Some racers recon the 8ight is no good on rough tracks and also there is a problem with servos poping due to vibration in the servotray.Also where can I find some setups. We are particapating in the RC-PRO finals in November so I don't have much time to get even with the 8ight.I think the 8ight is better but it seems that ones driving style must change. Help.... please!
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Old 09-24-2007, 07:44 AM   #4003
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How does running the aluminum chassis braces change the performance of the car? Do you run the aluminum or stock chassis braces? Also how does running the aluminum knuckles and such change the steering of the car(i.e affect bumpsteer)? thanks
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Old 09-24-2007, 06:47 PM   #4004
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Old 09-24-2007, 06:47 PM   #4005
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the alum. braces keep the chassis from flexing... and aaron will tell you to run the kit ones..lol i've had him tell me that plenty of times..lol i think thats right and if i'm wrong Aaron will make sure i know HA!


"The Hillbilly"

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Aaron you got a pm Thanks
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