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Old 08-10-2007, 07:19 PM   #3916
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are there any engines that can replace my PRO.15 on my nitro sport besides the TRX2.5R?(for future reference)
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Old 08-10-2007, 08:07 PM   #3917
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Originally Posted by killer89 View Post
Anyways, I want to do a little more gas racing and I have an 8ight. I've ran about 4 gallons through it with 0 problems, but now its starting to look like I need to do a teardown. I was checking it out today and the front and rear diffs move literally about 2mm back and forth... I'm pretty sure thats not good. Anyways, what should I be looking for to replace after 4 gallons? What is causing that slop in the rear diffs, the inserts or the cases?

Thanks for the help,
Killer
My advice would be to increase your maintenance interval, by a lot. Maybe a good teardown for every gallon or 2 at the most. Other simpler things could be gone through in-between those complete teardowns. Otherwise there may need to be some un-neccesary parts replacements that could have been avoided.
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Old 08-10-2007, 08:17 PM   #3918
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i know aaron and everyone else is about losi,but i thought this would be a great time to post a question with so many minds on this thread
i own a sportwerks mayhem and wondering if anyone has any good setup tips.any help would be greatly appreciated.sorry to get off the losi subject.
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Old 08-10-2007, 09:22 PM   #3919
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tsanc - It's not that this thread is only about Losi products, it's just that I'm most familiar with them and probably more qualified to answer a specific question about those cars versus others that I have no experience with.

With that said, I'm not really sure what setups racers have run in the past on the Sportwerks buggies. I know that people were racing them back east with good success, I guess it will just be a matter of asking around. Sorry I'm not much help.

Don - See you in the morning?

r/c newbie - I think those engines are pretty standard in terms of mounting and crank shaft, which means that anything side-exhaust and rotary carb should drop right in. To put the 2.5 or 2.5R in your truck in place of the Pro .15, you will, at the least, need a new header and linkage kit.

killer89 - Funny how you signed your post "killer", haha. Like Don said, you'll just need to tear down and rebuild more often. Gas cars go through a lot more abuse and as such, you need to pay special attention to high wear items. Those rear diff inserts can get sloppy and you'll need to replace them.

Check the diff inserts, dogbone pins, outdrives, gears, etc. and everything you'd look for on your electric cars. One gallon is 30 tanks of fuel...your car could have an average of 15 HOURS of run time through it. Time for a rebuild!
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Old 08-10-2007, 10:31 PM   #3920
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I'm going to bed right now. Get up at 4:00 in the morning?

What we do to race toy cars.
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Old 08-10-2007, 10:41 PM   #3921
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hey i have a inferno 7.5 sport with a wasp .26 and i have a prob with the the speed.it feels like only the front wheels pull and the back doesn't do anything. and it doesnt go as fast as it should because the front wheels expands a lot faster than the rear. also when i take it offroad it goes very slow.what should i do?

thanks
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Old 08-10-2007, 10:56 PM   #3922
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Don - No kidding, I'm on my way to bed now, ugh.

m2000 - Check your diffs to make sure they are engaging correctly and they are full of diff oil. It sounds like your center diff is probably empty or not working properly.
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Old 08-11-2007, 12:49 AM   #3923
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True Don, 4 gallons is too long. I actually bought the car used and the guy before me said he had 2 gallons on it. It didn't appear that he had done any maintenance to the car and then I quickly burned through 2 gallons before I even knew it. I went through a gallon in 2 race nights and over a gallon on a practice day.

I kinda just put off the maintenance because it seems so much more overwhelming than electric. Rebuilding a ball diff here, shocks and bearings there seems WAY easier than gear diffs, inserts, drive pins, joints, etc. Its not the actual repairs that gets me, its the amount of time it takes to disassemble the buggy enough to do the repairs... I'll just have to devote a couple of hours next week to repair and cleaning!

15 hours sounds about right now that you mention it. Its crazy to even think about it

Good luck to the both of you tomorrow... or actually today
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Old 08-11-2007, 03:53 AM   #3924
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thanks

know of any good side exhaust engines?
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Old 08-11-2007, 03:54 AM   #3925
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or good rotary carbs
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Old 08-11-2007, 09:02 PM   #3926
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i checked and filled with 3000wt diff oil before i posted and it was the better but sthe same prob. should i put more wt oil in there?

thanks
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Old 08-12-2007, 05:06 AM   #3927
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Aaron, what would you change from the stock setting of the Losi buggy if you were to run on a technical hard,rutted and dusty track with low to med traction. Not much jumps.
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Old 08-12-2007, 01:14 PM   #3928
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hey Aaron whats going on? i need to get in touch with Hollywood, my Dad dropped his 1098 like three weeks ago and he replaced all his fairing peice with carbon fiber. he needs to get it painted. i wanted to know who he would recomend out there as my Dad is in cali also. he livs about 30 minutes from Chapparal and doesnt mind at all going however far to get this thing done. also he is like 40 minutes from revelation, just to give you a reference of where his is.
thanks
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Old 08-12-2007, 01:35 PM   #3929
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C an you tell me the best setting for a top PT21 carb its poping thur the exhust at high rpm it has 4 diff screws on it so I dont know were to start thanks
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Old 08-12-2007, 11:10 PM   #3930
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erik - It's just part of the learning curve with nitro. It's much easier to rack up a lot of hours on your stuff when you can run it for longer than 5-10 minutes at a time.

r/c newbie - http://www.teamtrinity.com/shop/engi...lat122128.html

m2000 - We run 7000 in the center diff of the Losi buggies. If you put 3000 in the center diff and it got better, try going thicker. I think the Kyosho guys run 7000 in their center diffs as well, if not thicker?

vones - From the stock setup, I've made the following changes:

- 13T clutch bell, with four carbon shoes, and four gold springs.
- 3/3 rear pivot block
- 56's with 25 wt. in the rear
- 54's with 40 wt. in the front
- 4-A rear camber link

However, try the stock setup first, and you can make adjustments to suit your driving style. I think the clutch and the rear pivot block are a good idea regardless.

Bobby - I'll try to get a hold of him.

fstnv - I don't have one of those engines, so I don't know the stock needle settings or have a ballpark idea of where it would run well.

Have you made any adjustments to it? Is it "popping" and spitting fuel and smoke? Or is it cutting out and getting hot because it's starving for fuel?
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